I was curious to know if anyone here knows anything about Ishapore 2A1 rifles, or at least the Lee-Enfield .303's the 2A1 was originally based off of. I bought one some years ago from someone here in San Antonio, and didn't have too many problems with it. Unfortunately, after the 3rd or 4th range trip, the silly thing conked out on me and I haven't been able to figure out what the problem with it is.
The bolt will not go into battery; it won't close all the way, least of all even beginning to chamber a cartridge. When you depress the trigger while trying to cycle the bolt, the gun will slowly drop the cocking piece with the bolt as it shuts (allowing it to shut about .50" more than it would normally), allowing you to partially close the bolt (but not enough to pull it down and finish cycling the bolt). The last time we tried to get it to close on a round, it pushed the bullet right into the case neck.
We've tried replacing the extractor claw (originally, it wouldn't extract spent cartridges, or even properly chamber live ones) to no avail. We're not quite sure what to do, because we couldn't pin-point the problem even when we took the action out of the stock. I realize I'm likely in over my head here, but does anyone have any suggestions other than take it to some big-shot gunsmith that'll charge me $100?
I'm hoping this problem is more common/simple than it appears to be, so it's worth a shot; the gun is nice, and almost like-new!
The extractor is either the wrong one or the extractor spring is in wrong. The extractor has to ramp properly during bolt cycling or the bolt will not close. If I remember correctly, there is an adjustment for the extractor on that bolt. If you can't figure it out, use a competent gunsmith to fix it for you so you know it is done right and safe; or sell me the rifle dirt cheap and I'll deal with it. <lol> Use Google-Fu and you should be able to find bolt assembly/dis-assembly instructions.
On one of my 2A's, I had a problem with the safety that caused similar symptoms. If you disassembled the safety, it is a royal "B" to get back together correctly. The safety must pick up the correct "start" of it's thread or it simply won't work.
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