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#1
10-04-2009, 12:35 AM
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Refinishing kits, opinions and experiences?
I used an Outer's Kit years ago on a revolver that I maimed before discovering bluing remover.
I think it turned out ok, minus the butchered cylinder by me... I am about to do either just the barrel or the whole thing on a M-300 Sears & Roebuck 12 guage... The barrel is a must do, the receiver is... ehhh decent for original... Wanted to see what others have used and thought of the products available today for home kits. I might also do a little cleanup on the stock too, but it looks pretty good also. 
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#2
10-06-2009, 07:59 PM
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my dad has done a cold blue job on a gun back when i was a kid and it came out awesomely...
i have done a couple of jobs using duracoat and they are pretty nice.
__________________
Death is a doorknob made of flesh... 
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#3
10-07-2009, 12:34 PM
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Bought a Birchwood Casey kit with the Perma-Blue liquid in it today at Cabela's... don't know when I will get to start on it, but I have the supplies now...
Also bought a can of BC Gun Oil and a can of BC Barricade for it too... I can take it back it anyone has any other suggestions...
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#5
10-09-2009, 09:07 AM
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Dad and I refinished an old 12ga with the Birchwood Casey blueing kit. It came out nice - of course it was real rough before. We even refinished the stock with the stock refinishing kit. It wasn't anything special but it refreshed an old shotgun.
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#6
10-09-2009, 10:26 AM
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Its really hard to get cold bluing to come out right on a whole gun. It wont be even and will have some spots darker than others. If you do do it with cold blue, make very very sure you have all the oil off the parts and wear latex gloves. Get all the rust and stuff off the part and polish it as fine as you possibly can with progressively finer sandpaper and steel wool. The better your polish job the better the bluing will look. Apply bluing and let dry then buff with 0000 steel wool then add another coat, and repeat till its where you want it.
As for wood, if its a nice type of wood I like the look of Tung Oil or Tru Oil on it without stain. If its birch or some other cheap wood, find a stain you like and stain the wood, then Tru Oil it.
__________________
Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you: 1. Jesus Christ 2. The American G. I. "Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."~ Thomas Jefferson
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#7
10-09-2009, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by mclarenross
Definitely. And that's the downside to cold blue. Its really easy to do but seamless results are difficult to achieve.
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#8
10-09-2009, 04:14 PM
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I was basically figuring that it couldn't get any worse... I have only done this once before and it was a revolver so a lot LESS metal to try and get it even...
I do plan on polishing it real good before doing it and I might get a tube of the bluing paste to put on after a few coats of the liquid it it turns out decent... The piece is a M-300 Sears and Roebuck like I mentioned, so I don't know what kind of wood it is...
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#9
10-09-2009, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by treyw
make sure your metal is pit free and your surface is smooth/blasted
any flaws in the metal will show through the coat... i didnt bake mine, i used the 2 part mix through my airbrush and the barrel i did was awesome, looks like it was originally done that way... i am contemplating doing it to the rest of the shotgun just so it matches. don't get in a hurry and small thin layers work best.
__________________
Death is a doorknob made of flesh...
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#10
10-09-2009, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by High-Cap 1911
Thanks for the info Appreciate It
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