300 blackout
- Thread starter Eastexasrick
- Start date
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The only reason I even mentioned the new neck wall thickness is because that area was originally the side wall...and I tend to o er think things...lol
I'm sure you would have realized something was wrong if the rounds wouldn't chamber...
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Tumbling some more .556 prepping to be bobbed off.
While surfing around for 50-70 brass I checked on Bayou Brass this morning.
They showed 300 blackout in stock, new Starline, $34.00 for 100. I just had to call, figuring this was an out-of-date listing. Starline has not had them in stock for a long damn time. So I call, yep in stock. It appears Starline is shipping to dealers, but not listing them on their direct to customer page.
While surfing around for 50-70 brass I checked on Bayou Brass this morning.
They showed 300 blackout in stock, new Starline, $34.00 for 100. I just had to call, figuring this was an out-of-date listing. Starline has not had them in stock for a long damn time. So I call, yep in stock. It appears Starline is shipping to dealers, but not listing them on their direct to customer page.
This is worth far more than you give yourself credit for. There are a number of headstamps that you want to avoid because of this exact issue. You end up with a bulged neck or pushed back shoulder due to the neck thickness issue. You could size and ream but that's a real pain, especially since 300BLK brass is out there and easy to find.
If anyone wants to convert easily, rt1500 with a chipbreaking insert is the way to go. 1 pull and you are done by hand!
I've ordered from starline in the past for 454, 10mm, and 308 at different times. Had to order it on backorder. Don't know if they stock much on hand inventory. Assume they do runs of the calibers when they have enough orders, fulfill their requests based on that. If waiting for a caliber specifically, probably better to put in a backorder instead of waiting to check if in stock if you ever need it again.
This thread got me started looking into doing this. There’s a boatload of vids on YouTube about this. And with all those vids are the same number of different
methods. A lot of them say to pull the expander/decapping pin out of the die and size before you cut them off, the cut them off and size them again with the expander installed. All that to say, Rick, have you had any problem with crushing any cases?
methods. A lot of them say to pull the expander/decapping pin out of the die and size before you cut them off, the cut them off and size them again with the expander installed. All that to say, Rick, have you had any problem with crushing any cases?
Lonesome Dove
A man of vision but with no mission.
Anytime you create a new case from something else it's gonna seem like a WTF idea. But in most "cases" it's a lot easier than some make it out to be.
You just need to pick the method that is right for your thoughts and outcome. I always take the easiest route and have never had an issue that couldn't be adjusted quickly.
No problems, I am cutting them them first so I can leave the expander installed. One shot resize, trim to length and done
I liked how the Frankford Arsenal spray lube worked. Worked some google-fu and found that getting lanolin and 99% iso alcohol mixed at a 10 parts Iso to 1 part Lanolin recreates that mix approximately. So just as soon as I run out of the FA spray I'll mix my own.
I have used this with excellent results. Not sure I saved a dime, after hunting down 99% alcohol, lanolin and some small spray bottles. But if you are going to home brew, this is the answer.
On the case neck thickness, Ive only had one stick in the chamber (failing to go into battery) and it was Norma. I think I measured it at .0145. I then found This thread at 300blktalk.. Was a real PITA to get out. Ripped the rim off actually.
Fwiw, I designed a fully adjustable jig to clamp in the Harbor Freight saw. I like the fact that I don't have to trim after the chop. Let me know if you're interested. https://centex3dprints.etsy.com
Oh, and the carbide blade for that saw is worth its cost
Fwiw, I designed a fully adjustable jig to clamp in the Harbor Freight saw. I like the fact that I don't have to trim after the chop. Let me know if you're interested. https://centex3dprints.etsy.com
Oh, and the carbide blade for that saw is worth its cost
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The jig I use, I adjust the oal (I forget the number) but it took me a couple of cases to dial it in. I also revised the geometry of the jig where the case sits to account for the taper of 223 so it cuts more square. You could also run them through a 300 aac sizing die with no expander and then just chop the necks at the desired length. If I'm annealing, I usually anneal, form, then chop. But I rarely anneal. It helps that the carbide blade makes the cuts like butter.
let me know what you think about it. I hope it serves you well. I'm always looking to change any designs based on feedback or requests. I do this for fun and all of my tools are usually based off of my own necessity (usually reloading), so any ideas are welcome.I think mine is either here or on the way.
IF you manage to break it let me know and ill send a replacement.
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