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  1. #11
    Senior Member
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    I've heard good things about some of the Grizzly units.
    Tactical may not always be practical, but practical is always tactical.
    I'd rather be right than politically correct!

  2. #12
    DEPLORABLE TheDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texan-in-Training View Post
    While using calipers for a quill DRO seems fairly straight forward, the thought of using six inch calipers for table travel has intimidated me enough that I never pursued it. Seems like it would require some sort of magnetic attachment so it could be moved when needed. Got the secret? Or even better, a link to someones design page?
    You wouldn't actually use the whole caliper. The "reader" part would be taken off and mounted to an appropriate sized rail. Then you'd feed the digital output from it to some other type of counter brainbox. People have built them with arduinos and the code is freely available. I wouldn't want to use a system like that or absolute position, but it should work great for relative position. Probably cost you $50 and a little time.

    That one you found for $238 looks like a good value if you don't want to build your own.

  3. #13
    Member Texan-in-Training's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheDan View Post
    People have built them with arduinos and the code is freely available.
    Though I made my living as an Electronic Technician, I've never pursued learning about arduinos and the newer technologies... probably bruise what little I have left of brain-cells.
    Between posts yesterday, I used the HF mill to open up the dovetail on my Great Plains Hunter barrel for a "primitive" rear sight. Lyman makes a beautiful rifle, but their adjustable buckhorn rear sights (on left) suck. It got a little stressful towards the end, but I stopped about ten thousands short so I could use a file to final fit the sight and not screw up a three hundred dollar barrel.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #14
    Member APynckel's Avatar
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    Quality is paramount in mills. Ball screw slop, lack of precision in the dove tails for the axis, slop in the spindle, will all add up QUICK. Seriously "entry level" for a manual mill should be a used (but in certified good condition) bridgeport. If you want CNC, there are good American made mills that can be had for a couple thousand, namely the Tormach 440 - 1100, depending on your HP / workarea needs.

  5. #15
    DEPLORABLE TheDan's Avatar
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    ...and you can run a Tormach "manually" or semi manually if you wanted. I didn't realize you could pick one up for only a couple grand. That's in the same neighborhood as a well used knee mill. I'd get the Tormach.

  6. #16
    Member APynckel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheDan View Post
    ...and you can run a Tormach "manually" or semi manually if you wanted. I didn't realize you could pick one up for only a couple grand. That's in the same neighborhood as a well used knee mill. I'd get the Tormach.
    Yea, the only downside is you can't "force feedback" with the Tormach. No axis drive handles to feel if you're driving too hard. It's "to step or not to step". That's all you got.

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