Want to buy a J-Frame...but have a question.

[The.Other.Jared]

I've always been the semi-auto type, but a J-frame has been calling my name lately. I've decided on a 642 but I'm not sure if I should spend the extra $130 for the Performance Center "Pro Series" or just buy the regular one. They both come without the internal lock. I know there's some revolver guys here. Can y'all help me out?

 

[grasshopperglock]

The extra money is for human hands slicking the internals up.

Let's say you did everything they do. It'd be a DIY trigger job. Unless your name is famous. It's still DIY. If S&W does it themselves. It's a performance center edition. It's factory. Top of the line for in house modifications.

The upgrades are wonderful. That's if you want to spend the extra to have something extra. Since its factory, the name will carry. The resale value will show it.

 

[Charlie]

I personally would not pay the difference. Shoot it a lot and it will get smoother. the J frames are not necessarily target guns, depending on the individual. But, that said, if ya' got the money and want to spend it, do so.

 

[Dawico]

The slicked up actions and upgraded finishes make them worth the extra money.

I really liked the ones I have owned. Well worth a few extra bucks.

 

[Darqhelmet]

It’s worth it to me.

 

[skfullgun]

I've carried J-frames for decades. Mine look rough from use and carry and I don't mind it. Honest wear adds character. Buy the basic and make sure it's what you want.

 

[skfullgun]

I prefer the 638 with a Barami hip grip. You can carry comfortably and safely as long as you have a fairly stiff waistband or a belt of any kind.

 

[Charlie]

Have had several Barami Hip Grips in the last 20+ years. They work great! He is out of business now (retired) but some other companies have picked up his invention.
http://www.snub-nosed.com/barami_hip_grip

 

[vmax]

Airweights are great for SD but not a great range gun.
Also, if you use it a lot, their frames will show some wear in areas.
I have one. It stays in my gym bag or can go with me anythwere I need to conceal

 

[skfullgun]

Yes, the anodized finish WILL show wear. But they are tough. I capsized a boat in the bay and my J-frame was submerged in salt water for several hours. I brought it home, rinsed it in fresh water, lubricated it well, and two years later it runs like a top.

 

[benenglish]

The slicked up actions and upgraded finishes make them worth the extra money.

I really liked the ones I have owned. Well worth a few extra bucks.

I strongly agree.

To the OP - Depending on your luck, it's possible to get a J-frame with a terrible trigger. There's a reason that so many spring kits (from Apex, Wilson, Wolff, etc.) are bought by people desperate to get just a usable trigger on their J-frame.

 

[jar]

The action on my J-frame is nowhere near as nice as my M-28 or M-19 or M1917s but I expect in another quarter century the J will catch up.

 

[MikePotts]

"J" frame revolvers use a coil spring, "K" "L" "N"'s use leaf springs. "J"'s can never be as slick....given the same tuning, or lack of.

 

[Frank59]

I've always been the semi-auto type, but a J-frame has been calling my name lately. I've decided on a 642 but I'm not sure if I should spend the extra $130 for the Performance Center "Pro Series" or just buy the regular one. They both come without the internal lock. I know there's some revolver guys here. Can y'all help me out?

Just my opinion here!! Definitely invest the extra money and get the Pro Series. You'll thank me later!

 

[Bowyer]

I currently own 5 J frames and owned several more, none are PC guns, all have decent triggers but some are better than others.
I personally wouldn't pay the extra $ because I'm a DIY kinda guy and like to take things apart to see how they work anyway. You don't need any special tools to do a trigger job and there are hundreds of YouTube videos to show you how.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[OLDVET]

The slicked up actions and upgraded finishes make them worth the extra money.

This may be okay on a newer S&W, but not on a older model.
Modifying a collectible revolver like a M29 (no dash) kills the resale value. You will turn a "collectible handgun" into a "shooter handgun".
Years ago I started collecting S&W revolvers. I wanted the absolute cream of the crop. Then I learned how much fun they were to shoot, so I sold off my "safe queens" and bought "shooter grade" revolvers.
Not as pretty, but just as accurate.

 

[Dawico]

This may be okay on a newer S&W, but not on a older model.
Modifying a collectible revolver like a M29 (no dash) kills the resale value. You will turn a "collectible handgun" into a "shooter handgun".
Years ago I started collecting S&W revolvers. I wanted the absolute cream of the crop. Then I learned how much fun they were to shoot, so I sold off my "safe queens" and bought "shooter grade" revolvers.
Not as pretty, but just as accurate.

I am talking about factory PC guns versus new off the shelf models.

Older models and modifications by the user are a different story.

 

[OLDVET]

I reread the entire thread. I did not see any limitation to new firearms.
The person that started this thread appears to be new to this site. I wanted to make sure he knew not to mess around with older more collectible revolvers.

 

[Jon Payne]

IMHO the TALO 642 is worth the extra money. Well worth it. https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-642-0

 

[OLDVET]

Be careful.
Last year I bought a two toned Colt Talo Edition 1911. I decided I didn't like it, so I tried to sell it.
No luck. I finally traded to my FFL dealer. He has had it listed on GunBroker for several months. He can't sell it either.
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/783384344
Many people I talk to are not impressed with a Talo edition firearm. I will never buy another Talo firearm.
Be your own guide.