What is your favorite knife sharpening device?

[Moonpie]

There are five belts in the kit.
extra coarse
coarse
medium
fine
extra fine

Put the fine on the machine and hit a couple of knives. It worked ok I guess.
The grind angle may need adjusting.

 

[Younggun]

Used my new Work Sharp standard model to sharpen a 10" Forschner butcher knife. I used the red band first and ran it through each side 8 or 10 times. Then switched to the fine gray band and ran each side 4 or 5 times.
The knife is scary sharp now. My wife is prone to injuries when around sharp objects. I warned her not to come within 3 feet of it.

When you run it though the right side, it will leave a burr on the left side of the knife and vice versa. I alternated left and right until it stopped burring. Then switched to the fine band and repeated the process.

One you get a burr on both sides you can move to the fine belt. The burr let’s you know the edges have “merged” to a single edge. Even burr down the length of the blade means cutting is complete, time to buff.




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[Younggun]

Guy on YouTube named “Doug” something or the other had great vids on the WS sharpeners that give great details on what to do and what not to do for all kinds of knives and tools.


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[Younggun]

There are five belts in the kit.
extra coarse
coarse
medium
fine
extra fine

Put the fine on the machine and hit a couple of knives. It worked ok I guess.
The grind angle may need adjusting.

25* for work knives, 17-20* for kitchen knives.


Work a medium belt 5 strokes right then 5 strokes left side. Check for burr. If it doesn’t have an even burr down the length do 5 more per side.

Once you have an even burr the length of the blade go to a fine belt and alternate sides with each stroke to about 5 strokes per side. This should take off the burr and buff a razor edge.


Make sure if the knife has a thicker blade you are using the vertical side of the blade on the guide and not the bevel that thins the blade down to the actually cutting edge bevel. Stop with the tip on the belt. Release the switch as the tip moves on to the belt and either raise the blade away or let the belt stop. Otherwise you will round the tip off. And don’t drop the knife on a moving belt. Lay the knife in the guide, then hit the momentary switch and start dragging the blade back at the same time keeping the cutting edge perpendicular to the belts direction of travel.

Once you get the hang of it you will know it.


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[Bozz10mm]

One you get a burr on both sides you can move to the fine belt. The burr let’s you know the edges have “merged” to a single edge. Even burr down the length of the blade means cutting is complete, time to buff.

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Thanks, I'll try that. I still have 5 or 6 knives in the drawer that won't hold an edge. They seem to get dull just sitting there. I'm hoping the WS will change that.

 

[Younggun]

Not one of his better quality vids but the info is there.

He’s got a lot of them, most with better sound.




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[Younggun]

Thanks, I'll try that. I still have 5 or 6 knives in the drawer that won't hold and edge. They seem to get dull just sitting there. I'm hoping the WS will change that.

I was able to get an edge on some really cheap Walmart knives and even a dollar store steak knife my wife picked up for carving pumpkins.


Don’t have much faith in them holding the edge long with use though, lol.


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[karlac]

Best technique so far for me is moving my hand back on the handle, and just letting the knife's weight put pressure on the belt, and slowly lifting the hand until the tip of the knife blade is on the belt at the end of the stroke.

I might put a finger on the outside of the blade to keep it lightly against the Angle guide with the KO, still exerting no downward pressure on the blade with my hand.

IME, a light touch works best.

 

[easy rider]

25* for work knives, 17-20* for kitchen knives.


Work a medium belt 5 strokes right then 5 strokes left side. Check for burr. If it doesn’t have an even burr down the length do 5 more per side.

Once you have an even burr the length of the blade go to a fine belt and alternate sides with each stroke to about 5 strokes per side. This should take off the burr and buff a razor edge.


Make sure if the knife has a thicker blade you are using the vertical side of the blade on the guide and not the bevel that thins the blade down to the actually cutting edge bevel. Stop with the tip on the belt. Release the switch as the tip moves on to the belt and either raise the blade away or let the belt stop. Otherwise you will round the tip off. And don’t drop the knife on a moving belt. Lay the knife in the guide, then hit the momentary switch and start dragging the blade back at the same time keeping the cutting edge perpendicular to the belts direction of travel.

Once you get the hang of it you will know it.


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You can look up different angles for whatever knife you are sharpening. Most all pocket knives I've owned are usually between 15-20 degrees.

 

[Texasjack]

Several grits of sandpaper ("Scary Sharp Method") works really well. The paper is laid on a very flat surface (usually my band saw table) and oiled, progressing from 400 grit to 1200 or finer.

For touch up on every day knives, I use ceramic rods.

For my best knives, Japanese water stones and a lot of patience.

 

[Younggun]

You can look up different angles for whatever knife you are sharpening. Most all pocket knives I've owned are usually between 15-20 degrees.

I don’t always got with factory angles. If it’s really a work knife I prefer a higher angle, tends to be a little more durable and will hold the edge a little better.

A lower angle will give a little better edge, but it will also dull faster. For a knife only intended for defense then I’d probably just got for the best edge and not use it for any general purpose cutting.






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[easy rider]

I don’t always got with factory angles. If it’s really a work knife I prefer a higher angle, tends to be a little more durable and will hold the edge a little better.

A lower angle will give a little better edge, but it will also dull faster. For a knife only intended for defense then I’d probably just got for the best edge and not use it for any general purpose cutting.






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True, especially if you're going to be doing anything like chopping. I've always tended more towards the 20 degree angle than the 15, but then when cutting things like rope I would cut a bit at an angle rather then straight down and also make sure I have a piece of wood under it.

 

[oldag]

Best technique so far for me is moving my hand back on the handle, and just letting the knife's weight put pressure on the belt, and slowly lifting the hand until the tip of the knife blade is on the belt at the end of the stroke.

I might put a finger on the outside of the blade to keep it lightly against the Angle guide with the KO, still exerting no downward pressure on the blade with my hand.

IME, a light touch works best.

I think you hit on an important point there. One I am still working on.

 

[HKShooter65]

It's been mentioned.

One word worth re-mentioning.

Strop.
Use whatever method that serves you to get your instrument sharp.
Get skilled on angles, oils, ceramics, stones or whatever....
Then.....

A leather strop will take it from sharp to sublimely sharp.
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Understanding-Strops-W111.aspx

My very old latigo leather razor strop was my grandfather's.
Hanging by my safe. Priceless.

 

[Dan-O]

Plain old whetstone?

Ceramic rods?

Lansky?

Motorized?

What is your preferred way to sharpen your blades?

I'm new to knives and will be looking to purchase my first EDC soon. That being said, I like a good, sharp knife to prepare meat with (smoker) and I just purchased the Wicked Edge. So far I have had great luck practicing on my "junk" knives!

 

[deemus]

I'm new to knives and will be looking to purchase my first EDC soon. That being said, I like a good, sharp knife to prepare meat with (smoker) and I just purchased the Wicked Edge. So far I have had great luck practicing on my "junk" knives!

Welcome, and thanks for your service. You bring up a great point. I bought a couple cheap (under $10)knives at Academy to practice on.

 

[HKShooter65]

Reviving an old thread.

Just discovered the Work Sharp with the blade grinding attachment!
Freaking awesome device.
5 graduated belts plus the stropping cloths and polishing compounds.
Youza!

In the last 48 hours I've sharpened everything other than our cat's claws.
Now if I can just catch that little feline bitch......

hks

 

[Poboy gunner]

It's been mentioned.

One word worth re-mentioning.

Strop.
Use whatever method that serves you to get your instrument sharp.
Get skilled on angles, oils, ceramics, stones or whatever....
Then.....

A leather strop will take it from sharp to sublimely sharp.
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Understanding-Strops-W111.aspx

My very old latigo leather razor strop was my grandfather's.
Hanging by my safe. Priceless.

You mean those can sharpen knives? I thought they were just to beat kids with!

Snicker Snicker.....

 

[BRD@66]

Reviving an old thread.

Just discovered the Work Sharp with the blade grinding attachment!
Freaking awesome device.
5 graduated belts plus the stropping cloths and polishing compounds.
Youza!

In the last 48 hours I've sharpened everything other than our cat's claws.
Now if I can just catch that little feline bitch......

hks

Was it easy to master or did you eat up a few practice knives first?

 

[Younggun]

I have the worksharp with 3 belts and it was pretty easy to figure out. Especially if you watch the YouTube vids on it. There’s a guy with a ton of them.


The biggest thing is not rounding the tip of the blade. Easy to avoid if you watch the vids to see how.

I love mine. Sharpened a machete with it the other day and cut my finger when I was flipping it to hit the other side.

I’ve sharpened everything from kitchen knives (leading to my wife cutting her finger) to pocket knives (guy at work borrowed it and cut his finger), to exactl blades.

I was hesitant but decided to get one with a gift card I received. Love it.


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