Ford Electrical Problems

[Axxe55]

Hey Axe,

Oh, I agree with you....

I've got two really good 1/2" drive impacts...

The Red Head gave me a Blue Point, about 25yrs ago...has a solid 450# of Torque in the OFF direction. It has three settings...#2 being "enough" for less than 100# of torque...#3 for the stubborn stuff....LOL

I also have a new I-R that I-R claims has over 900# of OFF! (It will bust impact sockets)...

My old '87 F 350, has the FoMoCo "strip nutz"....gotta wind all 8 of them OFF and ON...a real pain when not at home....LOL

I'm enjoying retirement! 50yrs of workin'....whew!

Later, Mark

I would run lugnuts down using a 3/8" impact wrench, then tighten them to spec with a torque wrench. 3/4 tone and larger, I would run them down with a 1/2" impact then follow up with a torque wrench.

Only time I have had problems with warped rotors, was when someone tried to bang down the lugnuts as tightly as the impact would hammer them. Uncalled for and amateurish.

 

[msharley]

Hey Axe,

When I install/remove my snow tires, Fall/Spring Events...here at Dad's Gym (don't be a jerk, get to werk....)

I let the 1/2" Blue Point "hit" a lug on the cars two or three "hits" on the #2 setting, then final torque...

On the truck? I just let it rattle about 5 or 6 hits...after winding the stubborn "sob's" all the way on....(let the compressor catch its breath) LOL

These are the "two piece/almost integral washer" lug nuts....

And yes, I use Anti-Sieze.....

In fact, was looking at the snow tires for the truck yesterday......seems they are starting to dry rot...(they are near to 20yrs old) I only put 2 or 3,000 miles/year on that truck....most of which is to the Lumber Yard 5 miles West of me or the Cement/Stone plant two miles further...
Once in a while, a ride to Punxy or Indiana..

I may be purchasing a new set of 4 studded snow tires....?? (at $150 or $180?@) OUCH!

I really like the Cooper Snow Tires.

Got a brand new set mounted for the Crown Vic....May yet have them studded?

Later, Mark

 

[Axxe55]

Hey Axe,

When I install/remove my snow tires, Fall/Spring Events...here at Dad's Gym (don't be a jerk, get to werk....)

I let the 1/2" Blue Point "hit" a lug on the cars two or three "hits" on the #2 setting, then final torque...

On the truck? I just let it rattle about 5 or 6 hits...after winding the stubborn "sob's" all the way on....(let the compressor catch its breath) LOL

These are the "two piece/almost integral washer" lug nuts....

And yes, I use Anti-Sieze.....

In fact, was looking at the snow tires for the truck yesterday......seems they are starting to dry rot...(they are near to 20yrs old) I only put 2 or 3,000 miles/year on that truck....most of which is to the Lumber Yard 5 miles West of me or the Cement/Stone plant two miles further...
Once in a while, a ride to Punxy or Indiana..

I may be purchasing a new set of 4 studded snow tires....?? (at $150 or $180?@) OUCH!

I really like the Cooper Snow Tires.

Got a brand new set mounted for the Crown Vic....May yet have them studded?

Later, Mark

Nothing wrong with using an impact wrench to just run the lugs down and then using a torque wrench.

Another alternative, are the torque sticks that are made to go on an impact wrench for lug nuts. Doesn't matter how much you hammer on the impact, they will only get as tight as the spec rating of the torque stick.

If all I did was tire work, or brake work, then I'd invest in a set of the torque sticks. They are not cheap either, but they work, and if used properly are faster than using a torque wrench and won't warp the rotors.

ETA: These are the torque sticks I was referring to.

https://www.grainger.com/product/STEELMAN-Torque-Stick-Set-20C901

 

[TEXAS "All or nothing"]

Fords are very sensitive when it comes to electrical. However they are known for better things, electrical is not 1 of them. As stated, they do have several body ground points to the frame among other places.. A 12 year old vehicle with electrical issues makes sense and could happen any time. Contacts in the window switch could have dirt or other build up/corrosion. Things do wear out! It could be just that time for it too go fubar or have a snafu? Window motor could be going out. Sometimes a build up of codes can plague the problems. The computer has only so many cells it can fill and need to be cleared (Auto Zone probably can't do it). As stated above, disconnecting and reconnecting the battery won't help. What is your battery condition? Has it had a load test done? Check alternator and belt(s). Does the a/c have any issues with turning on (not temperature as in low freon). Ground (body ground) shouldn't be the problem. If battery ground is a problem the engine start would act like it was a bad/low voltage battery. This might be too late of a reply?

 

[TEXAS "All or nothing"]

I have told several tire shops over the years, if they use an impact on my lug nuts, they get to pay for my brake rotor replacement!

Over-torquing the lug nuts, will warp a brake rotor.

So will living in the south!

 

[TEXAS "All or nothing"]

Ford's latest, the Bronco, has a serpentine belt. Not too weird, most cars do. But the belt has no tensioner.
It's stretchy.

Any flubberband/zip tie/Bungie cord will do !

 

[TEXAS "All or nothing"]

Which is exactly why I dumped the LTD I once had.

The LTD was on limited time !

 

[GonzoLonzo]

Hey Bud, I had the same issue on my daughters 2013 Kia Sorento. The ABS, Traction control and hill decent lights all came on. I spent a lot of time on the kia forums, tried a lot of things and had the dealer hook up their scanners and nothing worked. The problem turned out to be the speed sensor hub on the rear wheals. When that thing goes bad it sets off all the lights since they are all tied together. I replaced the hubs with the sensor in it over a year ago and haven't had issues since. I don't know if would be the same with your car but somewhere to start. I'll include a link to the part I replaced to give you an idea of what it looks like. They weren't that hard to replace. Hope this helps

https://www.carparts.com/details/Kia/Sorento/TrueDrive/Wheel_Hub/2013/LX/SET-REPH285921-2.html?TID=gglpla&origin=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=12062578450&gclid=CjwKCAjwxo6IBhBKEiwAXSYBswuDDXvvhzdSQ14B0s14ssVHYfAv-PUTf2RcvZz0Fz1oWbCoWzjpAhoCi6YQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[mroper]

Most of the tire places use Torque sticks now on the impacts. I still check them when I get home

 

[TxStetson]

I always check mine too. I use my biggest impact wrench and give each lug nut 25 ugga-dugga's.

 

[TexMex247]

Busy end to my work week so sorry to say didn't look much more into this. Update us when you can with current status.

 

[Grumps21]

My ‘14 F150 just turned 100k miles and was on the blink with elect issues. Saturday morning it cranked but would not start. Found the fuel pump relay 20a fuse was actually burned. Half of the plastic on the fuse was charred and the blade had welded itself to the terminal on one side. I got it removed and replaced the fuse. Truck started right up but the traction control lights came on along with service engine lights and motor started really running like crap. Not sure if limp mode or if the brakes were engaging, but wouldn’t go but 10-15 mph. No matter, it was at the end of our single lane driveway and it was blocking in our other vehicles, so I just happy to get it on the street so I could get the other cars out. Watched YouTube vids the rest of the day trying various “known“ fixes but none worked. I suck diagnosing any modern day electrical grimlins, so I ended up towing to the dealer yesterday. Later that afternoon I got a call from the service guy saying they identified the issue. There is a design problem with the fuse box on my generation of Ford, so they had to engineer a special fuse relocation kit because this happens so often. Ford issued a TSB for the problem, but no recall, warranty extension or assistance with paying for the fix was offered. Apparently the terminal for the fuel pump uses a 20a Mini fuse that is just too light for the load and eventually the terminal burns out. The kit relocates this fuse to one of the empty large fuse slots and a corresponding larger 20a fuse is used. After the service guy told me about it, I did search it out on the inter web, and sure enough, theres a Motorcraft part number for the retrofit kit.
I expect to replace moving parts and wear items as needed, but it really pisses me off when a non moving item like a fuse box craps out due to an engineering failure, and the manufacturer will not stand behind their product. Until this point, it’s been a trouble free truck aside from the rear window replacement under warranty. Again, electrical problem with the defroster.

 

[ZX9RCAM]

How is there a "larger" 20a fuse?

Isn't 20 amps, 20 amps?

 

[AZ Refugee]

A

How is there a "larger" 20a fuse?

Isn't 20 amps, 20 amps?

Larger format,

 

[ZX9RCAM]

But it still blows at 20 amps.

What am I not getting?

 

[Axxe55]

How is there a "larger" 20a fuse?

Isn't 20 amps, 20 amps?

A

Larger format,

As said, larger format, which means heavier duty.

 

[ZX9RCAM]

As said, larger format, which means heavier duty.

So, it doesn't blow at 20 amps?

 

[robertc1024]

As said, larger format, which means heavier duty.

Bullshit. 20A is 20A. There are slo-blows, but a larger format doesn't mean shit.

 

[Axxe55]

But it still blows at 20 amps.

What am I not getting?

Size matters with electrical. Yes, 20 amps is 20 amps. But the size of the wire feeding the fuse, and the fuse itself matter. There are also other factors that matter when measuring the resistance in circuit, such as looseness in the terminals and corrosion, which will make the resistance of that circuit higher. Heavier gauge wire can handle more resistance.

 

[Axxe55]

Bullshit. 20A is 20A. There are slo-blows, but a larger format doesn't mean shit.

You're absolutely correct. Not like I spent over 40 years working on cars and trucks.

I'll let you explain how it works.