I'm Switching Motor Oils

[Axxe55]

Unless you have a failure, why? Serious question.

Unrelated: I looked them up and even read a motorcycle sample report; I don't think I understood it.

Because it breaks down the metal deposits in the oil by type of metal and it's concentrations in a percentage.

Lots of fleet vehicles use this to gauge the amount of wear and tear on the engine.

 

[Coiled]

I've used Castrol in every street legal vehicle I've owned since 1982 and no oil related issues. That includes 3 1/2 ton gas pickups on dino, one I just sold last May with 250K miles. Castrol synthetics in at least 5 vehicles since 1999. No documentation but I'm confident that is in excess of 500K miles. Pick the oil you want, as long as it meets Mfg. specs.

 

[Vaquero]

Any "ticking " at startup is probably due to variable displacement stuff.

 

[BeatTheTunaUp]

Any "ticking " at startup is probably due to variable displacement stuff.

It's the lack of oil pressure at startup so the lifters aren't pumped up and you have excessive valve lash until oil pressure comes up, lifters extend and lash is gone.

 

[Wiliamr]

WHAT??? You dont change oil and filter every 1000 miles?

 

[Grumps21]

Unless you have a failure, why? Serious question.

Unrelated: I looked them up and even read a motorcycle sample report; I don't think I understood it.

People on the motorcycle forums talk about sending out oil samples all the time. When did this become a *thing*? I really don’t understand it either.

 

[Vaquero]

It's the lack of oil pressure at startup so the lifters aren't pumped up and you have excessive valve lash until oil pressure comes up, lifters extend and lash is gone.

Am I crazy, or did some filters or filter attachment assemblies have a check valve in the 90s?
Supposed to keep some of the oil trapped in the oil galleys of the heads.

I sure think it was a thing.

 

[Vaquero]

People on the motorcycle forums talk about sending out oil samples all the time. When did this become a *thing*? I really don’t understand it either.

You should try a tractor forum.
Good grief!

 

[toddnjoyce]

People on the motorcycle forums talk about sending out oil samples all the time. When did this become a *thing*? I really don’t understand it either.

I don’t know why; I’ve never run a Blackstone analysis on any of my ground-based vehicles. Now, planes…whole ‘nother story. Much looser tolerances, burning 1qt/10 hrs is normal, very little data collection/monitoring, and ancient technology where a motor making metal can kill you and an overhaul runs $30k - $50k+. Want new? Add 30%+ to those numbers.

It’s very routine in the aviation world to send of an oil analysis at every oil change (~50hr intervals) and watch the trend to see how the motor is doing.

 

[Coiled]

Am I crazy, or did some filters or filter attachment assemblies have a check valve in the 90s?
Supposed to keep some of the oil trapped in the oil galleys of the heads.

I sure think it was a thing.

I don't recall the years but the filter check/back flow valves did exist. With the younger parts counter people having never heard of it, I gave up asking for it.

 

[skfullgun]

Supposedly, Motorcraft filters have a "silicone anti-drainback valve". I'm not really sure how that would help since my oil filter hangs upside down on the bottom of the engine anyway.

 

[toddnjoyce]

Supposedly, Motorcraft filters have a "silicone anti-drainback valve". I'm not really sure how that would help since my oil filter hangs upside down on the bottom of the engine anyway.

Engine Masters just did an episode on oil filters and discussed the Motorcraft FL-1-A and that little valve. It’s less material and more location of the valve that is the differentiator.

But the K&N Gold oil filters came out on top after dyno runs on 11 filters.

 

[Vaquero]

Supposedly, Motorcraft filters have a "silicone anti-drainback valve". I'm not really sure how that would help since my oil filter hangs upside down on the bottom of the engine anyway.

The oil is pumped into the outer area then through the filter media. Then it goes "out and up" to the upper engine assembly.
The valve prevents oil from draining back down through the filter. Supposedly, the heads and valves are fully lubed on startup.

 

[skfullgun]

As usual, there is good information here.

My dad never let a vehicle go past 3k. He took an oil and filter change with us on vacation, or changed it early if there was any chance it was going to roll over 3K on the trip! Of course, that was back in the Dino only days. The day he stepped up from 30SAE to a multi-viscocity was historical!

For a looong time is was Havoline 10w40 and a Fram filter every 3k.

 

[SQLGeek]

I don’t know why; I’ve never run a Blackstone analysis on any of my ground-based vehicles. Now, planes…whole ‘nother story. Much looser tolerances, burning 1qt/10 hrs is normal, very little data collection/monitoring, and ancient technology where a motor making metal can kill you and an overhaul runs $30k - $50k+. Want new? Add 30%+ to those numbers.

It’s very routine in the aviation world to send of an oil analysis at every oil change (~50hr intervals) and watch the trend to see how the motor is doing.

The more you talk about airplanes, the more my wallet hurts.

 

[TexMex247]

Any ticking or clickity clack at start up on a Ford that's not low on oil is most likely a bad timing chain synchronizer(cam sprocket), stretched timing chain or bad chain tensioner. True through 3 generations of Ford motors 4.6, 5.4 or newer 3.5 V6. On a Chrysler 3.6 that ticks all the time it's probably a failed roller rocker arm.

As far as oil, pick a synthetic/blend and check it, top it and/or change it regularly. I recommend 5k even with synthetic but that's a personal preference. One that's kept my 03' Dakota with a 3.9 going for over 295k.

 

[Lost Spurs]

I'll step in with a couple of observations from a couple of years staring at engines.

The stuff I work on has been long interval Mobil 1 for 25 years now. After the switch from 3-5k conventional, we had a 13,000 mile interval that dropped to 10,000 miles. I think that most of the cars that follow the interval will see 150 to 200,000 miles, no problem. (trucks are not included; we have SUVs but not trucks per say)

The couple things I see that seem to kill them faster are using cheap oil changes that include "new oil" and a subpar filter. Ours (mercedes) are filter inserts, not like a Jap or domestic engine. You can tell straight away if sub-par parts were used. Also, it gives you a heads up if sludging is present.

Another is the people who turn a 10,000-mile interval into a 15,000-mile interval. Do that 3 or 4 times, and your engine is brown inside.

One that is not as present here in Texas but was literally a killer in Minnesota was short trip driving. You could pull an oil cap and have a 2-inch stlagtite of sludge.

I have run Mobil 1 in all my own stuff for years. Only because I get it for employee price on the bulk tap at work. I am under the belief that any of the name brand oils of today are probably near the same. Any big store brand is probably one of those in a different bottle.

I would however be interested in the finite details of current production oil and the weight difference. Is 5w-30 the same after 10,000 miles?

Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Grumps21]

Am I crazy, or did some filters or filter attachment assemblies have a check valve in the 90s?
Supposed to keep some of the oil trapped in the oil galleys of the heads.

I sure think it was a thing.

Yes they did have an anti drain valve. Im rusty on the old numbers but the old ph35 for the small block chevys had another part# fo the valve version. I’ve read on recent forums about the anti drain valves and how some of the cheaper ones are paper based, so they might still be a thing.

 

[Grumps21]

I'll step in with a couple of observations from a couple of years staring at engines.

The stuff I work on has been long interval Mobil 1 for 25 years now. After the switch from 3-5k conventional, we had a 13,000 mile interval that dropped to 10,000 miles. I think that most of the cars that follow the interval will see 150 to 200,000 miles, no problem. (trucks are not included; we have SUVs but not trucks per say)

The couple things I see that seem to kill them faster are using cheap oil changes that include "new oil" and a subpar filter. Ours (mercedes) are filter inserts, not like a Jap or domestic engine. You can tell straight away if sub-par parts were used. Also, it gives you a heads up if sludging is present.

Another is the people who turn a 10,000-mile interval into a 15,000-mile interval. Do that 3 or 4 times, and your engine is brown inside.

One that is not as present here in Texas but was literally a killer in Minnesota was short trip driving. You could pull an oil cap and have a 2-inch stlagtite of sludge.

I have run Mobil 1 in all my own stuff for years. Only because I get it for employee price on the bulk tap at work. I am under the belief that any of the name brand oils of today are probably near the same. Any big store brand is probably one of those in a different bottle.

I would however be interested in the finite details of current production oil and the weight difference. Is 5w-30 the same after 10,000 miles?

Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk

I could never do a 10k interval. Wife’s old Camry has a 10k interval, and I always change it at 5k miles. Maybe I’m just outdated in my beliefs, but 10k just seems too long. I‘ve defaulted to 1k miles for each quart of capacity. CX9 and Camry at 5k miles and truck at 8k miles.

 

[GasGuzzler]

I use Mobil 1 because the original advertising (oil on a hot plate), I'm a professional technician who has never had an oil system failure while using it, and it's the "synthetic" we keep in stock at work. Not all great reasons but all reasons.

Back in my hot rodding days it was Valvoline single weight.

My 2000 Blazer 4.3 made it to 267K before I sold it running fine. My wife's 2003 Yukon Denali is near 180K with no issues. My 2007 Sierra 5.3 with failure prone valvetrain and oil pump has not had internal repairs at 162K miles ... all using Mobil 1. The lack of negative is not proof positive but it makes me feel better.

50K is not high mileage. Not sure about F*** or other brands but high mileage doesn't start on an LS-based engine until at least 150K miles.