Lynx Defense

Micro Compact .45 Light Primer Strikes

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  • okie556

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    I recently purchased this Micro Compact so haven't shoot it much but today had some issues while shooting RWS Match Grade 230 gr. FMJ ammo. As the title states some rounds would not fire, some I could re-cock hammer and second try they would go bang but not always. Loaded some cheap Monarch 230 gr. fmj and the Micro worked prefect.....ran 3 full mags no issue with Monarch.

    Also has my S &W Commander Size .45 and it ran the RWS Match Grade with no issues. The primers on the RWS are silver alloy in color and the primers on the Monarch are brass in color. Common sense tells me the primers on the RWS are harder and take heavier strike than the Monarch. I am new to 1911s so my question is....what can I do to the Micro Compact to make the firing pin strike harder? Or should I just leave alone and shoot the RWS in my Commander. My only concern is that the Micro was purchased for a carry weapon and at this point I'm not really confident in it.

    Like I said, new to 1911s but not new to shooting and very confident in working on my guns so is this something I might fix or should I take to a gunsmith?
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    Vaquero

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    Sounds like break in issues.
    Keep firing. Hopefully it'll loosen up and hit harder.
     

    40Arpent

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    As you should with any carry pistol, shoot it with the ammo you will be carrying. If that poses no issues, then you will be ok.
     

    Mreed911

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    Ahh...
    Unless the firing pin/striker is dirty, I got nothing.

    This. Definitely worth disassembling the slide, firing pin, etc. and cleaning. There's no telling what sort of gunk has gotten trapped in there over the years. How do the firing pin marks look on the fired brass, especially the double-tapped brass? Deep? Pics?
     

    okie556

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    This. Definitely worth disassembling the slide, firing pin, etc. and cleaning. There's no telling what sort of gunk has gotten trapped in there over the years. How do the firing pin marks look on the fired brass, especially the double-tapped brass? Deep? Pics?

    Looked at spent brass at the range but since I don't reload (yet) didn't collect it. Even on the Monarch brass, with fired every time, the dimple was extremely light compared to my commander. Will disassemble and clean firing pin then go try again.
     

    Shorts

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    After cleaning the FP channel and aperture I'd look at the mainspring. If it is to light it will not send the hammer forward with enough force to overcome the FP spring. Perhaps the previous owner goofed with the springs in that gun trying to get a light trigger pull or some stuff. Might not be a bad idea to replace the recoil, FP spring and mainspring all at once. For that I'd order a set from Wolff springs. Also be sure the sear spring hasn't been messed with.
     

    okie556

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    After cleaning the FP channel and aperture I'd look at the mainspring. If it is to light it will not send the hammer forward with enough force to overcome the FP spring. Perhaps the previous owner goofed with the springs in that gun trying to get a light trigger pull or some stuff. Might not be a bad idea to replace the recoil, FP spring and mainspring all at once. For that I'd order a set from Wolff springs. Also be sure the sear spring hasn't been messed with.

    Thanks Shorts. You could be spot on. When I purchased the first thing the owner did (after clearing weapon) was insist that check the trigger pulled. Said he had it worked on by local gunsmith and the trigger pull is VERY light. Just odd that it ran the Monarch with no issues.
     

    Shorts

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    It would surely pop a red flag for me to hear that. At the very least the fact that someone was in that gun, and I'd have no clue as to the reputability of the 'smith that did the work. I'd at least want to get in there and verify what I'm starting with for parts and tensions, safety relies upon it. Let us know how it goes :)
     

    Andy

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    Unload the pistol and stick a wood pencil down the barrel so the eraser abuts against the breech-face. Point the pistol vertically and pull the trigger - if the pencil jumps out at speed, there's nothing wrong with the firing pin and you can start looking at the ammo.
     

    Army 1911

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    A light trigger pull should not affect the hammer strike on a 1911. The mainspring standard weight in 1911s is 23#. Some folks change them to as low as 18#. That martginally affects trigger pull but can cause light strikes. Change the FP spring to a wolf extra power and put a new 23# mainspring in there. Some primers are harder than others, that could also be a factor with the RWS ammo....I don't know. Make sure you order the proper length of spring for your MSH, officer's or full sized.
     

    okie556

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    Unload the pistol and stick a wood pencil down the barrel so the eraser abuts against the breech-face. Point the pistol vertically and pull the trigger - if the pencil jumps out at speed, there's nothing wrong with the firing pin and you can start looking at the ammo.

    Interesting but easy to do so will try this later today. Doubt if I have a pencil around the house...LOL.
     

    okie556

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    A light trigger pull should not affect the hammer strike on a 1911. The mainspring standard weight in 1911s is 23#. Some folks change them to as low as 18#. That martginally affects trigger pull but can cause light strikes. Change the FP spring to a wolf extra power and put a new 23# mainspring in there. Some primers are harder than others, that could also be a factor with the RWS ammo....I don't know. Make sure you order the proper length of spring for your MSH, officer's or full sized.

    Thanks sir. If all else fails that's what I'll do.
     

    Shorts

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    A light trigger pull should not affect the hammer strike on a 1911. The mainspring standard weight in 1911s is 23#. Some folks change them to as low as 18#. That martginally affects trigger pull but can cause light strikes. Change the FP spring to a wolf extra power and put a new 23# mainspring in there. Some primers are harder than others, that could also be a factor with the RWS ammo....I don't know. Make sure you order the proper length of spring for your MSH, officer's or full sized.


    Good point and correct. Lightening the trigger pull on a 1911 has no mechanical relation to the hammer strike.
     

    okie556

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    Unload the pistol and stick a wood pencil down the barrel so the eraser abuts against the breech-face. Point the pistol vertically and pull the trigger - if the pencil jumps out at speed, there's nothing wrong with the firing pin and you can start looking at the ammo.

    Okay so found a wooded pencil with new eraser although eraser seemed very hard to me. Anyway, the pencil only cleared end of barrel by about 2 inches. But, tried in my brand new Commander Size S & W and again only cleared end of barrel by about the same distance....of course this barrel is 1.25" longer than the Micro. Will take time tomorrow to remove FP, clean real good and see if pencil goes any further.
     

    Andy

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    Typical lengths for a 1911 firing-pin should be from 2.290" - 2.296" - so that's something else that you might want to measure, if only to set your mind at ease that the length is good.

    Mainspring that drives the hammer - yep, I've found that anything less than #23 is asking for trouble.
     

    okie556

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    Typical lengths for a 1911 firing-pin should be from 2.290" - 2.296" - so that's something else that you might want to measure, if only to set your mind at ease that the length is good.

    Mainspring that drives the hammer - yep, I've found that anything less than #23 is asking for trouble.

    Still haven't removed FP. I have never went any farther when cleaning than than removing slide, barrel and spring so a little hesitate. Guess I'll Goggle how to do..
     

    Andy

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    Push in the FP slightly and wiggle/drop down the FP stop (plate) gently to release the FP - keep your thumb over it to capture it.
     
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