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  • lonestardiver

    TGT Addict
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    7   0   0
    Dec 12, 2010
    4,615
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    Eagle Mountain Lake area
    The one thing with all the progressives I have seen so far is to change out the primer feed/seating from small primers to large primers and back again is somewhat of a pain. Which is why I bought a second Dillon...one is dedicated to small primers and the other to large primers. Makes changing from one cartridge to another so much easier. It took me 15 years to decide to get the second one...
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    TxStetson

    Opinionated and Irritable
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    Lifetime Member
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    4   0   0
    May 9, 2013
    10,056
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    The Big Country
    The one thing with all the progressives I have seen so far is to change out the primer feed/seating from small primers to large primers and back again is somewhat of a pain. Which is why I bought a second Dillon...one is dedicated to small primers and the other to large primers. Makes changing from one cartridge to another so much easier. It took me 15 years to decide to get the second one...

    I have an even better system. I just don’t reload anything with small primers. I didn’t plan it that way, but everything I reload uses large primers.
     

    Tanked84

    Member
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Nov 16, 2017
    60
    11
    Killeen, TX
    The one thing with all the progressives I have seen so far is to change out the primer feed/seating from small primers to large primers and back again is somewhat of a pain. Which is why I bought a second Dillon...one is dedicated to small primers and the other to large primers. Makes changing from one cartridge to another so much easier. It took me 15 years to decide to get the second one...

    If the switching from large to small primers is a real pain I may have to do that as well and just have 1 set up for large primers and 1 for small primers.
     

    Tanked84

    Member
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    0   0   0
    Nov 16, 2017
    60
    11
    Killeen, TX
    They make two progressives. One is called the 1000. I used the load master.

    https://leeprecision.com/reloading-presses/progressive-presses/load-master-reloading-press/

    I do believe I am going to go with the Lee Press that is in the link you posted. I have spent a good deal of time since you posted it looking at different videos on it and the reviews. Dillon ones also seem very nice but they are quite a bit more expensive. I will probably be buying that Lee Press around black Friday or so.
     

    lonestardiver

    TGT Addict
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    7   0   0
    Dec 12, 2010
    4,615
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    Eagle Mountain Lake area
    Yes the Dillons are more expensive..but don’t forget you get a lifetime no BS warranty. Your house burns up in a fire and you have a pile of molten slag, they will replace it no questions. You break something by accident, they will replace the part. Some parts of the Lee Pro 1000 are plastic and break/wear over time and must be replaced. I didn’t like the powder charge disks for the Pro 1000..I even had the double disk kit and made a spread sheet to figure out charge weight by density and resulting volumetric combinations...didn’t like flake or stick powders. I loaded a lot of .45acp, .38spl, and .357mag on it. When it got to the point I was spending more time keeping it “tuned up” than reloading it became time to move ahead. I think they had come out with a better charge bar by that time...at any rate. I researched, subscribed to “the blue note” Dillons monthly catalog/flyer and talked around. Found there was a Dillon dealer in Arlington at the time so I dropped in a number of times asking questions before I bought one. Haven’t looked back. I am not saying the others are bad...I would have no problem setting up the 1000 again for a dedicated pistol caliber...probably .38 spl since I don’t load for that very often. It was a good step up from a single stage press and stepping stone in my reloading history.
     

    lonestardiver

    TGT Addict
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    7   0   0
    Dec 12, 2010
    4,615
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    Eagle Mountain Lake area
    Everyone’s path to reloading will be different, but by learning how some people have progressed and learn about what those choices were made and why helps those that are new to this aspect of the hobby see different perspectives and allows them to make more informed decisions when they come to those cross roads.
     

    Moonpie

    Omnipotent Potentate for hire.
    Lifetime Member
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    21   0   0
    Oct 4, 2013
    24,104
    96
    Gunz are icky.
    It helped me to break down the individual steps in the process.
    First you need to determine what exactly you're reloading for? Volume blasting pistol ammo? Precision long range rifle ammo? Old antique firearm? Etc.
    This will assit you in what equipment to purchase.
    Now, i am a firm believer in the Buy Once, Cry Once method. So buying top of the line equipment pays off in the long run. You'll end up buying the stuff eventually anyways so just do it.
    85% of your labor will be brass prep.
    Motorize wherever you can. Your carpal tunnel hands will thank you.
    Don't use unknown brass. Use new or stuff you've fired.
    Don't use powder thats been opened. You never know what Bubba has done to a partial bottle of powder.
    Those 14 half jugs of garage sale powder will get you blowed the **** up. Use new or jugs you opened.
    Reloading doesn't save you a dime. It lets you shoot more rounds for the same $. AFTER you've spent $12,487 on all the latest and greatest gizmo reloading gadgets.
    Reloading tools wear out. Cutter heads, reamers, etc.
    Enjoy your new hobby.
    Muwhahahaaaa........
     
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jan 5, 2012
    18,591
    96
    HK
    I had a S&W 5906 at the time. A box of new 9mm cost between $6-$8 a box. I could reload them for $4.

    My very first press. The LEE load master. I built a table along a wall in a big walk in closet. Mounted the press solid and cranked out hundreds of 9mm. Some with cheap cast lead bullets I bought in the parking at a gun show. Other with jacketed bullets.

    I'd go out back and shoot the reloads. Pick up the brass and do it again. I reloaded some cases 4-5 times.

    A tricky divorce ended the LEE press.

    2nd press was a RCBS piggyback. That contraption made me want the LEE back.

    Sold the RCBS after a month. Fast forward, now I have Hornady.

    Every press I've bought is compared to my first. The LEE. All their products will always have a place on my bench.
     

    orbitup

    Sticker Cop
    Rating - 100%
    13   0   0
    Nov 6, 2010
    26,958
    96
    Waxyscratchy
    Yes the Dillons are more expensive..but don’t forget you get a lifetime no BS warranty. Your house burns up in a fire and you have a pile of molten slag, they will replace it no questions. You break something by accident, they will replace the part. Some parts of the Lee Pro 1000 are plastic and break/wear over time and must be replaced. I didn’t like the powder charge disks for the Pro 1000..I even had the double disk kit and made a spread sheet to figure out charge weight by density and resulting volumetric combinations...didn’t like flake or stick powders. I loaded a lot of .45acp, .38spl, and .357mag on it. When it got to the point I was spending more time keeping it “tuned up” than reloading it became time to move ahead. I think they had come out with a better charge bar by that time...at any rate. I researched, subscribed to “the blue note” Dillons monthly catalog/flyer and talked around. Found there was a Dillon dealer in Arlington at the time so I dropped in a number of times asking questions before I bought one. Haven’t looked back. I am not saying the others are bad...I would have no problem setting up the 1000 again for a dedicated pistol caliber...probably .38 spl since I don’t load for that very often. It was a good step up from a single stage press and stepping stone in my reloading history.

    Lee charges you shipping for the plastic parts that break. They have prices on the site but when you put them in your cart they all change to zero. You can also order multiples.

    Also they do have a new powder dispenser, the auto drum. It's pretty handy and you can get multiple drums so you can adjust once for every load you have.
     
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jan 5, 2012
    18,591
    96
    HK
    Next on the list of dies to buy. Plus a $45 shell plate to go with them.

    450 Bushmaster.

    Current inventory. 38/357, 9mm, 40, and 223/5.56. I have two sets of dies for the 5.56. One set of the cheap Hornady 'American' dies and the more expensive hornady die sets. Lyman on the 9mm. The 38/357 dies are expensive, carbide, Redding brand.

    Also have a RCBS bullet mould for cowboy action, 38spc. Their catalogue doesn't list the number for the mould anymore. I guess they stopped making it. Haven't used the mould yet, either.
     

    Charley

    Active Member
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Aug 7, 2008
    744
    76
    San Antonio
    My take? Just starting, keep things simple. If starting with a progressive press, load one cartridge at a time, until you are comfortable with what you are doing. I actually recommend to beginers they start with a single stage or turret, and as needed, move up to a progressive. You will always have a need for single stage or turret, whether depriming, pulling bullets (a LOT easier to pull quantities of bullets with a collet die than an inertial puller!), or other tasks. I buy and sell used reloading equipment, and many of the progressive presses I pick up were used by handle pulling monkeys, NOT handloaders. Stuck cases, broken depriming pins, scratched dies, and on and on. Learn FIRST, then look at speeding up the process.
    Bulk of my ammunition I want or need in quantity is done on a Dillon 550, but load most of my smaller quantity rifle ammo on a Lee Classic turret.
    The tool is important, but the operator is more important.
     
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jan 5, 2012
    18,591
    96
    HK
    Cliff notes.


    1 pound of powder equals 7000 grains. 1 gram equals 15.43 grains.

    Once you figure the load per round. Divide that by the pound. Then you'll know how many rounds can be reloaded with one pound of powder. I bought two 8# jugs of RamShot TAC powder. 16# total.

    My medium load for 5.56 is 1.43 grams of powder, each. (22 grains). One pound of powder will reload 318 rounds. 16# of powder will do...

    5,088 rounds of ammo. Give or take a few. Buy powder in bulk or it's crazy expensive.
     

    schmellba99

    Member
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Mar 30, 2008
    104
    11
    Houston & San Antonio
    Finally got a reloading setup, something I've been threatening to do for years. A Hornady LnL classic deluxe. Initially I plan on starting with 300 blackout and .223. I have a bunch of used brass I've saved, but was thinking I might want to start out with new brass. Any tips tricks or gotchas to be aware of? Any and all suggestions welcome.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    As others have suggested - get manuals, read, read, read again and read again. Youtube is also a great resource to see how various stages of the process are done.

    Always remember - when in doubt, tear apart and start over. You are talking about less than $.50 worth of components on the vast majority of rounds, your body apendages and firearm are worth more than any gamble with such a small amount.

    Your LnL Classic is a single stage press - great for learning on and for using for precision reloading as well once you get seasoned. You'll find that the batch system is best with a single stage (deprime and size all at once, flare [for pistol or straight wall cases] all at once, charge all at once, seat and crimp all at once). Spend some time getting your initial setup where you have room to work and experiment where you'll place your loading block, powder throw, brass, projectiles, etc. Trust me - your first 10 attempts will get changed, so don't get frustrated with it. It takes time, your process will change, your setup will change. Its just part of the learning curve.

    Learn how to set your dies up right - pick some brass to be sacrificial in this aspect because you are going to mess some up. When learning how to set your dies for seating and crimping, do it on an un-primed and un-charged case. Once you get one exactly where you want it, keep it as your standard for that round and projectile combo so you can use it to set dies up again later much faster.

    Don't get infatuated with fancy tools right now, don't get stuck in the weeds of minute details - both of those will come with time. Stick to the basics, ask questions here, and always always always be safe.
     
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