Smith & Wesson Model 19...

I bought a brand new Smith & Wesson model 10 a few months ago and love it. I put some Hogue grips on it and it feels great. I shoot only 38 special and don't intend to +p. I love the blue steel. Is there a good product to remove the lead at the end of the cylinder that has accumulated?

So I'm thinking of getting the model 19. I don't intend to shoot magnums or +p but I will be shooting these a lot at the range. The model 19's barrel is .25 inches longer, weights a few ounces more, and is an inch longer overall. It's the same K frame as the model 10. Would this be a better shooter in that there is more weight on the front due to the longer barrel, in terms of helping the recoil and time to return to target. Also, would this gun last longer since the barrel is resilient enough for magnums?

Not to mention the adjustable sights.

I may carry one of these in a raised hip holster hidden under a vest.

What do you guys think? I love the blue steel, jeje.

Welcome to the Forum!

Ty

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trist007 said:

So I'm thinking of getting the model 19.

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One of the newly reintroduced 19s?
http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?206645-Smith-and-Wesson-Reintroduces-The-Model-19!

I look for a really nice used 19-3 P&R instead.

Here is a pic of some lead at the front of the cylinder, what can I use to remove that?

That's a colt detective special, but I got the same thing on the Smith model 10.

" Would this be a better shooter in that there is more weight on the front due to the longer barrel, in terms of helping the recoil and time to return to target. Also, would this gun last longer since the barrel is resilient enough for magnums?"

There is little difference in the recoil of a 4" M10 and a 4" model 19 because the new M10 already comes with a heavy barrel. The M19 has an ejector shroud that adds a little stability to the frame and barrel connection but both revolvers will last a life time of shooting with .38 Specials. I have a M65, basically a stainless model 10 with the longer cylinder to accommodate .357 Mag shells that I shot well over ten thousand rounds of reloads through on falling plates.

The old M19s have the underside of the barrel where it screws into the frame cut at the bottom for the crane and it makes the barrel more prone to splitting at the forcing cone when you shoot light weight high velocity ammo, like 125 gr jacketed Magnums, heavier bbullets and lead bullets do not cause this.

To remove the lead and powder residue, it is best to clean that with a good gun cleaning liquid after each time. I mix my own, using the Ed's Red formula, which has detergents in it. In your case, I would recommend to swab it with a lot of gun cleaner and let it sit, or soaking it overnight and then remove it carefully with a very fine handled brass brush.

Here are a few pics of some of my M19s and M10 and their stainless versions.

TheMailMan said:

https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...rs/solvents/lead-remover-cloth-prod59702.aspx

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Be extremely careful using this as it will remove the bluing on your revolver.

I would not recommend to use the lead away clothes on blued guns, it is more or less a product for clean-freaks that want to remove the carbon rings from cylinders on stainless revolvers.

I shoot too much to worry about cosmetic cleanings.

Durability, accuracy and recoil are going to a wash between the two shooting standard pressure .38s.

The M-19 will give a bit better sight picture, but I would probably go with a slicked-up M-10 with bobbed hammer for carry.

Go with a good IWB holster and it’ll conceal under a t-shirt.

I carry a 3” M-64 all day long in a Summer Special holster positioned at 2:00. An extra 1” of barrel would be no harder to conceal.

Awesome thanks for the great replies!