Brake lights staying on continuously and discharged battery

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  • RobertTheTexan

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    This morning the wife gets in her vehicle to go to work. No Joy. Dead battery. So I push the car out of the garage, jump it with my truck and let her take my truck to work.

    Get to looking and the brake lights won't turn off. I've jacked with the pedal - the brakes work fine, but between the 3 brake lights, it killed the battery. I ended up disconnecting the negative battery cable.

    It also seems like they are burning even brighter. They were extremely hot to touch in the short time that I was running the car to charge the battery. But here thinking about it, that's probably normal. The brake lights are brighter than taillights.

    Any ideas? I'm thinking somehow I've got some kind of a hot wire, but a) I'm not sure how that could happen, and b) Not sure what to do with it.

    Thanks! for any suggestions or advice.

    Robert
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    Kar98

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    Did you recently install a new stereo,one that requires it to be connected to the brake signal wire to lock out video playing while driving?
     

    RobertTheTexan

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    Did you recently install a new stereo,one that requires it to be connected to the brake signal wire to lock out video playing while driving?
    No, nothing has been changed on the car - it's all stock. I noticed it a few days ago. But I thought it was the rear taillights staying on for that 5-10 second delay. But no, nothing like that has ever been done with the vehicle.
     

    RobertTheTexan

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    It is possible the switch at the brake pedal is stuck...
    That was my first thought.

    Disconnect it and see if the problem persists.
    So I've got these two switches that the brake pedal arm hits. Both have switches. This is a Nissan Pathfinder and I'm a 6'2.5 Texan. Ain't a whole lotta fittin' up in dere. But I did managed to disconnect one, I'm 85% sure contact was broken. If I allow it to slide all the way out, then I won't be able to get myself contorted enough to reach. Just messing with that has my jacked up Army shoulders fussing at me.
    I reckon I'll have to call my guy and see if he can fit me in this week. Thank you guys for offering some suggestions.
     
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    So I've got these two switches that the brake pedal arm hits. Both have switches. This is a Nissan Pathfinder and I'm a 6'2.5 Texan. Ain't a whole lotta fittin' up in dere. But I did managed to disconnect one, I'm 85% sure contact was broken. If I allow it to slide all the way out, then I won't be able to get myself contorted enough to reach. Just messing with that has my jacked up Army shoulders fussing at me.
    I reckon I'll have to call my guy and see if he can fit me in this week. Thank you guys for offering some suggestions.

    The two of the switches do separate things. One will disengage the neutral lock out. (Where you have to apply the brake to get out of park)

    The other is the brake switch. It's awfully uncommon for a safety switch to mess up. It's a spring loaded plunger. Very reliable part.


    Did she hit anything? Have you recently installed a trailer hitch? There's a hot wire touching ground somewhere.
     

    lonestardiver

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    I doubt it is a hot wire touching ground...that should pop a fuse. Being the circuit is broken in one place, the switch, that is likely the first culprit. The question now is, is it switched on the positive side or the negative side. If it is the negative side, then a worn wire touching ground between the switch and the brake lights makes sense.
     
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    Stick a logic probe to it and find out. Wires don't peter out. If the circuit is stuck closed. There may not be enough amps to pop the fuse. A grounded wire is acting like a closed switch. Completing the circuit.

    Never underestimate Electric gremlins. It'll be something that'll attempt to defy physics.

    The only components. A battery, switch, wire, and two bulbs. If its not the switch. It's the wire. If the wire is ok then inspect both sockets on the bulbs. Pull the pig tails off and see if either one looks melted around the terminals.
     

    RobertTheTexan

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    Gents I appreciate the help, but I decided to punt this one over to my guy. He good, he’s reasonable and I do g have to aggravate my shoulders under the dash. I appreciate the tips though.

    I will post ups follow through so you guys can know what the dealio was.

    Thanks again,
    Robert


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    RobertTheTexan

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    It is possible the switch at the brake pedal is stuck...



    That was my first thought.

    Disconnect it and see if the problem persists.



    The two of the switches do separate things. One will disengage the neutral lock out. (Where you have to apply the brake to get out of park)

    The other is the brake switch. It's awfully uncommon for a safety switch to mess up. It's a spring loaded plunger. Very reliable part.



    The arm and switches were not aligned properly. Mech corrected it and it’s GTG.

    Off the deadline list!

    Big thank you to all who helped!!
     
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    The arm and switches were not aligned properly. Mech corrected it and it’s GTG.

    Off the deadline list!

    Big thank you to all who helped!!

    Forgive me here. I have never heard of an out of alignment brake switch. Ever.

    Out of curiosity. Did he charge you? If you don't mind saying, how much? Did he mention a brake relay switch? We're you charged for any parts?

    I'm not discounting your mechanic but what the Hades is an out of alignment brake pedal???
     

    RobertTheTexan

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    So there is a bracket that has some holes in it that the plunger switch went through and then made contact with some other brake arm. The piece with the holes or the plunger switches were moved (back I think) so that the switch never switched to open.

    He installed a bolt that help keeps the proper contact .

    Seems to be working as advertised. In the picture you can see the bolt for the right plunger switch.

    Making the brake lights go off when they should and on when they should: $40

    Not having to regret I gave up pain killers because my shoulders are killing me?

    Priceless

    :)

    Also I’ve been going to ol Pete for years. I trust him because he’s also saved me from repairs that I’ve seen other chain type shops try to charge me. He’s a solid dude.

    Thanks again for chiming in with some tips.

    Looking
    ac185bb586a9ef5bad323560c69a9519.jpg




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    Dawico

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    Forgive me here. I have never heard of an out of alignment brake switch. Ever.

    Out of curiosity. Did he charge you? If you don't mind saying, how much? Did he mention a brake relay switch? We're you charged for any parts?

    I'm not discounting your mechanic but what the Hades is an out of alignment brake pedal???
    Sounds like the switch was just misaligned. Something came loose or got bent. Seems believable.

    Paying $100 or so wouldn't be out of line for the hassle of diagnosing and getting to that part.
     
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    Sounds like the switch was just misaligned. Something came loose or got bent. Seems believable.

    Paying $100 or so wouldn't be out of line for the hassle of diagnosing and getting to that part.

    It's believable because there's a picture. The gentleman installed a bolt in the backing plate. To make contact with the switch plunger. Ever wonder what part was there that did the same thing? How uncool is it for brake system parts to fall apart with mystery pieces disappearing? Let's hear it for Nissan.

    I'm not seeing bent parts. I'm seeing missing parts and a bolt stuck in it to make it work. That'd seem what recall dreams are made of. He rigged it solid.

    The brake lights work. It's all cool now. Disaster diverted.
     
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