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4L60E won’t hold overdrive

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  • pronstar

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    When you increased shift firmness how much did you increase it?

    It’s a very generic tuner...parameters are just yes/no.

    I mainly bought it to correct my speedometer, my tires are slightly taller than stock.

    And oddly, even tho it’s a “power reprogrammer” there’s no setting to increase power for my truck.


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    SidewaysTA

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    It’s a very generic tuner...parameters are just yes/no.

    I mainly bought it to correct my speedometer, my tires are slightly taller than stock.

    And oddly, even tho it’s a “power reprogrammer” there’s no setting to increase power for my truck.


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    Yeah that is very generic. If I remember correctly mine gave options on how much shift firmness you wanted, which is done by increasing line pressure.

    Agree with Brian that there's not any power to be had out of those programmers. I got mine to adjust tire size and cooling fan settings mainly. I never felt a difference with the power settings.

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    Brains

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    Yeah we did plenty of back to back testing in the early LS1 days. There was no provable performance gain on a chassis dyno and no difference at the track either. Kinda like the K&N filter claims, our testing showed you tended to actually lose ~1HP over a paper filter, worse if it was over-oiled.
     

    pronstar

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    Update:
    Got an OBDII WiFi dealio. Tried a ton of software, none showed available PID’s for the transmission. Actually, two did, but no data was captured, totally blank.

    Truck was running great, though. Problem never came back...until yesterday. When the wife was driving it.

    She calls, says truck seems like it’s in neutral. Revs and goes nowhere...great. She’s in a safe spot, not far from home, I tell her to get an Uber.

    Calls me back, truck is moving. Wants to drive it home.

    Calls me back, truck won’t get out of first gear, she’s really close to the house so limps home.

    I get home, CEL (first code it’s thrown) says faulty Shift Solenoid B.

    No time to play with it, off to the shop it goes. Tow truck driver says “seems fine to me, you sure you want it towed?”

    Shut up and tow the damned thing already.

    It’s at Buck’s Transmission near Fort Worth. Got a good reco and they seem decent.

    The slippage my wife reported is worrisome...Solenoid B could have been the cause of my initial issue, methinks.


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    Brains

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    Yep, definitely can be the solenoid. Thankfully it's a super easy fix if that's it, but where there's smoke there's often fire. You may have more problems with that box down the road. Was this transmission recently rebuilt? They might have missed some trash when they reassembled, in which case it'd probably be fine after pulling the solenoid and valve, lightly honing it to clean it out, and reassembling with a new solenoid.
     

    pronstar

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    No 3rd or 4th gear when cold.

    When it warms up, massive slipping, or slams into first and won’t upshift at all.

    Dropped the pan.
    Fluid full of material.

    Shop says rebuild, with upgrades to known weak links, $1600. Full warranty.

    I’m inclined to agree.


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    pronstar

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    It was rebuilt about 2 years ago.
    Shop said it looks like some parts were changed, some were painted (weird?).

    They were surprised (as am I) a fresh-ish rebuild would be toast, unless the rebuild wasn’t done to a high standard.


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    pronstar

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    Any warranty on the rebuild ? sounds like you have a case

    My buddy, the previous owner, had the work done. It had a 1-year warranty.

    Just got it from the shop Tuesday, had it rebuilt and upgraded a bit...just in case there’s a 383 stroker in the future

    She runs really nice


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    Darkpriest667

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    Yeah we did plenty of back to back testing in the early LS1 days. There was no provable performance gain on a chassis dyno and no difference at the track either. Kinda like the K&N filter claims, our testing showed you tended to actually lose ~1HP over a paper filter, worse if it was over-oiled.

    Those K and N air filters actually reduced my HP AND my mileage... The stock filters were better!


    Someone done messed up on that previous rebuild. :(

    Agreed, a rebuild shouldn't be crapping out that early.. I bought a good OBD2 4 years ago and have run Torque Pro (the 5 dollar upgrade is worth it) forever. On my old car (mitsubishi) the 2 times in 6 years it ever had problems I told the mechanic what was wrong and said he could waste his time checking or fix it. on the newer cars (like my toyota) it tells you ALL sorts of neat things and you can control fuel to oxygen ratio and tons of other goodies.


    Sorry your truck did this pron.
     

    pronstar

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    When I first started off-roading, K&N’s were all the rage.

    Everyone in our group stopped using them pretty quick once we started noticing fine dust in the intake tracts of our toys, just downstream from the filter.

    Went to oiled-foam Uni filters after that, I never had that issue anymore.

    Maybe I didn’t oil the K&N’s correctly? And all my buddies too ?
    Who knows, but oiled foam was idiot-proof.


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    Darkpriest667

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    When I first started off-roading, K&N’s were all the rage.

    Everyone in our group stopped using them pretty quick once we started noticing fine dust in the intake tracts of our toys, just downstream from the filter.

    Went to oiled-foam Uni filters after that, I never had that issue anymore.

    Maybe I didn’t oil the K&N’s correctly? And all my buddies too ?
    Who knows, but oiled foam was idiot-proof.


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    I always used that special oil they came with well it wasn't oil it was protectant of some kind... I lost about 15 HP and about 4 mpg on my gallant using it.
     
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