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zero turn mower question

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  • Shotgun Jeremy

    Spelling Bee Champeon
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    Jul 8, 2012
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    They do sell this model at the Hustler dealerships, so it's not just some box store cheapo. From what I've seen, Hustler doesn't cut corners. They beef things up, but even their base lines are quality.

    The closest Hustler dealership to Burnet that I know of is in Round Rock - Almighty Rentals. They run a tight knit operation and really seem to know their stuff if you go ask for advice. They sell Hustler and Ferris mowers, along with a bunch of other small engine equipment. If you need parts, they can help you out. I've never known them to try and steer anyone in the wrong direction, and they've even gone out of their way to save me money before, even though it cut into their sales.

    Scalping can generally be avoided by taking care of your scalping wheels and being mindful of your angles. If you're not seeing a potential scalping coming, you're operating wrong. To avoid tearing up the grass, always keep your inner wheel turning, even if just barely. If that's not doing the trick, consider a different route, or look into Bob Cat's Zero T tires they run on their zero turn mowers. Supposedly they're not supposed to dig up the grass. I don't see why you couldn't put them on a different brand mower.


    I run a fleet of about 160 vehicles, and those are part of it. If you ever need a second opinion, feel free to reach out.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
     

    Shady

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    Aug 24, 2013
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    The dealer locator shows one in Marble Falls. But I am in Round Rock a few times a month so that works too.

    Thanks for all the tips and pointers.

    And turns out I had plenty of extra room the deck measured in at 53.75.

    Turns out Lowes would not add gas to it and pushed it up on my trailer but at least with no gas smell in the tank I am fairly certain it had never been started. I will fire it up in the morning.

    They fed me a line of BS that I had to run premium in it due to regular and mid grade gumming up the works and eating the rubber/plastic hoses and would void the warranty. I just rolled my eyes and laughed on the inside, but it did make me read the manual lol. And of course it said uses the lowest grade you can without knocking. Only said don't use over 10% ethanol.

    I was pleasantly surprised it had the engine guard arm rests and the seat has springs under it. I do not think its the real suspension seat but at-least there is something to stop the ass jarring.

    It had been moved to the back to be cleaned bird crap and dirt on it from being outside. When I got there it had not been scrubbed but I did not want to wait for them to rub the grime in with a dry towel so just told them to load it as is it was fine.

    And ya I know pics or it did not happen.
    hustler.jpg
    price.jpg
     

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    Dad_Roman

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    Ck the oil, prolly has about as much in it as the gas.

    I run premium (at home) to avoid the shitty ethanol problems, your call.

    Jeremy prolly buys in bulk and it USUALLY doesnt have ethanol to worry about. We take 2K gallons at a time, at work, and it doesnt have any of that crap in it.
     

    ZX9RCAM

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    Ck the oil, prolly has about as much in it as the gas.

    I run premium (at home) to avoid the shitty ethanol problems, your call.

    Jeremy prolly buys in bulk and it USUALLY doesnt have ethanol to worry about. We take 2K gallons at a time, at work, and it doesnt have any of that crap in it.

    Premium doesn't have ethanol, or is the ethanol just not shitty?
     

    Dad_Roman

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    Premium doesn't have ethanol, or is the ethanol just not shitty?
    Depends on "whos" gas but in general I believe most premiums dont have it. You have to watch for it....and remember, your in the big city, Im in the country, big difference.

    I noticed at wallyworld in Pasadena the other day that all the gas had ethanol and they were PROUD of it. Huge signs . Hell they even had two different diesel's, one had some soybean crap or somethin in it.
     

    Dawico

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    Bought our JD at Home Depot years ago. The dealer and HD had the exact same model but cheaper at HD.

    Years later when I had to replace a blade spindle on the deck the new one had a grease zerk. The old one did not.

    None of the HD models had them. All the dealer mowers did.

    Not saying they all cut corners but it does happen.
     

    Shotgun Jeremy

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    So, the TL;DR, you should be fine with whatever gas you choose. Just make sure to keep it fresh and don't let it stagnate in your lines/carb.

    I run premium in my personal riding mower, but we run Shell regular in our fleet. The bigger factor you want to take in is fresh gas. Is your local premium fuel constantly being used and restocked, or does it go a while before it's restocked? Your local gas station manager should be able to help tell you pretty much how often it gets brought in. Fresh regular grade will always be better than stale premium. Another factor is maintenance. Are you changing your fuel filters annually? You should. Fuel treatments also help. I'm able to test my fuel in my shop or garage and tell exactly what the ethanol percentage is. Most stations are here are around 9%-11%. With that in mind, we know ethanol has cleaning additives and attracts water.

    WATER is your fuel systems real problem - not solvents. The ethanol additives will stiffen up diaphrams in your carb or vacuum operated fuel pump, but we have measures against that like fuel treatment and properly storing equipment. The best thing to fight against the water build up is some Mechanic in a Bottle. This stuff chemically encapsulates every water molecule in your fuel and allows it to pass through without corroding your fuel system/carb or clogging your strainer/filters. If you really want to be a fuel nerd, look into b3c fuel tests. They have everything from cheap fuel swabs to check age and for water to all out fuel and oil test kits.

    If you only mow once or twice a month, turn off your fuel valve at the bottom of your tank and run the engine until it dies. This will keep fuel from stagnating in your pump or carb, and then you can pour a little bit of that mechanic in a bottle in with each tank fill up to really keep it fresh. You should never need a carb rebuild if you do this. Granted, that can be extreme, so if you at least do that with each winter prep, you should still be ok.

    Would you mind taking a picture of your carb tomorrow? I'd like to see something.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
     

    pronstar

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    Our boats, generators and off-road toys sat for extended periods during the off-season.

    I stopped having fuel related issues once I started using this.

    d6337f96cbe7b7147f448091635ffdd7.jpg



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     

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    sidebite252

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    ^^^^ I swear by this myself. Add it to every gas can I fill up. Please note: just because it’s high octane doesn’t mean it’s ethanol free. Use 87 octane and add the Sta-Bil. If you can find 100% gas (no ethanol) 87 octane even better but premium gas in a lawn mower is a waste of money.
     

    Shady

    The One And Only
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    did not get much of a chance to mess with it does this show what you are looking for ?
    carb.jpg





    So, the TL;DR, you should be fine with whatever gas you choose. Just make sure to keep it fresh and don't let it stagnate in your lines/carb.

    I run premium in my personal riding mower, but we run Shell regular in our fleet. The bigger factor you want to take in is fresh gas. Is your local premium fuel constantly being used and restocked, or does it go a while before it's restocked? Your local gas station manager should be able to help tell you pretty much how often it gets brought in. Fresh regular grade will always be better than stale premium. Another factor is maintenance. Are you changing your fuel filters annually? You should. Fuel treatments also help. I'm able to test my fuel in my shop or garage and tell exactly what the ethanol percentage is. Most stations are here are around 9%-11%. With that in mind, we know ethanol has cleaning additives and attracts water.

    WATER is your fuel systems real problem - not solvents. The ethanol additives will stiffen up diaphrams in your carb or vacuum operated fuel pump, but we have measures against that like fuel treatment and properly storing equipment. The best thing to fight against the water build up is some Mechanic in a Bottle. This stuff chemically encapsulates every water molecule in your fuel and allows it to pass through without corroding your fuel system/carb or clogging your strainer/filters. If you really want to be a fuel nerd, look into b3c fuel tests. They have everything from cheap fuel swabs to check age and for water to all out fuel and oil test kits.

    If you only mow once or twice a month, turn off your fuel valve at the bottom of your tank and run the engine until it dies. This will keep fuel from stagnating in your pump or carb, and then you can pour a little bit of that mechanic in a bottle in with each tank fill up to really keep it fresh. You should never need a carb rebuild if you do this. Granted, that can be extreme, so if you at least do that with each winter prep, you should still be ok.

    Would you mind taking a picture of your carb tomorrow? I'd like to see something.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
     

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    Shotgun Jeremy

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    No, you gotta pull off the air cover on that one. The only real issue we've seen on ours is a few started running rough. It turns out a welch plug on the carb came off and my rep told me they have been seeing that on a few. Right now the fix is installing a new plug (I think they're .20, but that would be covered under warranty if you feel like trailering it out and going back to pick it up) with red thread lock on the edges. Real simple fix. I was just curious if those smaller models ran the same carb.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited:
    Every Day Man
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