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  • lbbf

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    Interesting. My Lyman reloading says either 300 or 350 primers may be used.
    Primers............................... CCI 300 & 350 Primer Size................. Large Pistol, Std. & Magnum
    Griffin, Thomas. Lyman 50th Edition Reloading Handbook (p. 439). Kindle Edition.
    DK Firearms
     

    SQLGeek

    Muh state lines
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    Lyman 50th says to use magnum primers for all .44 magnum recipes using H110 or 296.

    BUT for 180 gr jacketed hardcast bullet, they list a starting weight of 29.0 gr and a max weight of 30.0.

    So start at the minimum and develop your load.
     

    CodyK

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    Lyman 50th says to use magnum primers for all .44 magnum recipes using H110 or 296.

    BUT for 180 gr jacketed hardcast bullet, they list a starting weight of 29.0 gr and a max weight of 30.0.

    So start at the minimum and develop your load.

    Lee says large pistol primer, but most everything I have read says for H110 use the magnum. A couple articles advised against using the H110 because of the loads min/max being so close. I will definitely be going with the starting load. The last 44 mag reloads I shot with H110, felt scary hot, but I looked up the load and it was a starting load!


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    TxStetson

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    The Big Country
    Lee says large pistol primer, but most everything I have read says for H110 use the magnum. A couple articles advised against using the H110 because of the loads min/max being so close. I will definitely be going with the starting load. The last 44 mag reloads I shot with H110, felt scary hot, but I looked up the load and it was a starting load!


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    H110 is what I use for hot loads in 357 and 44 Magnums. The important thing to remember with H110 is never go below the posted minimum load. If you use less, it stands a chance of detonating instead of igniting. Very bad juju.
     

    Maverick44

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    Lee says large pistol primer, but most everything I have read says for H110 use the magnum. A couple articles advised against using the H110 because of the loads min/max being so close. I will definitely be going with the starting load. The last 44 mag reloads I shot with H110, felt scary hot, but I looked up the load and it was a starting load!


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    H110 is just naturally hot. As others have said, it can actually be dangerous to load it too light. From my experience, you get the best results from near max loads. I use standard primers.

    You might find Alliant 2400 a little more to your liking. It's more forgiving, can be loaded lighter, and is the classic 44 mag powder. It's what Elmer Keith used, and it can be loaded pretty damn hot.
     

    CodyK

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    Love when that happens. Everyone leaves behind 9mm so I'm good for bringing home at least 3x what I shoot usually.

    Separated it all last night and some confused shooter muddied up my haul with a bunch of .40 S&W!!! I’ve got about 60 or 70 empty .40 cases from my last 2 range trips. When I get a few more I may just load ‘em up (I’ve got the 10mm/.40S&W die set) and I can shoot them outta my Glock 20.


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    rotor

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    Separated it all last night and some confused shooter muddied up my haul with a bunch of .40 S&W!!! I’ve got about 60 or 70 empty .40 cases from my last 2 range trips. When I get a few more I may just load ‘em up (I’ve got the 10mm/.40S&W die set) and I can shoot them outta my Glock 20.


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    Lee manual says to never reload .40 S&W that were shot from a Glock because of unsupported barrel and possible kaboom. I would think this would be even more dangerous in a 10 mm barrel. The .40 is only held in place by the extractor in a 10 mm gun. Why not just get a 40 barrel for your Glock and not ruin your extractor. Midway has one for $80 I believe. A kaboom in a Glock could be lethal.
     

    CodyK

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    Plan is to get an aftermarket barrel for all my Glocks (already have one for my 17’s) so I can shoot lead out of them. If I get enough .40 brass I’ll get one to shoot that caliber. I loaded up a batch of 44 last night with the H110, and went and shot a few today. Now THAT is fun!!!!


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    rotor

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    Plan is to get an aftermarket barrel for all my Glocks (already have one for my 17’s) so I can shoot lead out of them. If I get enough .40 brass I’ll get one to shoot that caliber. I loaded up a batch of 44 last night with the H110, and went and shot a few today. Now THAT is fun!!!!


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    I have a S&W629, 8" barrel. I know what you mean.
     

    rotor

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    I shoot swaged coated lead bullets from my Glocks. I think that warning is the lack of rifling in a Glock may not stabilize the bullet and hurt accuracy.
    No expert here but Glocks have polygonal rifling and the supposed danger is an increase in lead fouling with possible increased pressure in the barrel. I don't know how true this is but I shoot fmj in my Glocks. don't know if the coated bullets are safer than lead.
     

    Maverick44

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    No expert here but Glocks have polygonal rifling and the supposed danger is an increase in lead fouling with possible increased pressure in the barrel. I don't know how true this is but I shoot fmj in my Glocks. don't know if the coated bullets are safer than lead.

    That is the issue, and it does actually exist. Proper and very frequent cleaning will supposedly stop it from happening if you insist on shooting cast. Jacketed rounds or an aftermarket barrel are better solutions.

    I cannot say with absolute certainty that coated bullets would work, but I cannot see any reason why they wouldn't. Lead fouling of the barrel is the issue, and the coating prevents that from ever happening. You can push coated bullets to pretty high velocities without leading becoming an issue. No common handgun round is ever going to approach these velocities.

    I have a gun that absolutely refuses to shoot lead. A single mag leaves the barrel looking like a sewer pipe. Powdercoated bullets fixed that issue.
     

    CodyK

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    I’ve been loading Swamp Poppers in 9mm and .45, which are some sort of polymer coated lead. Supposedly the coating has a higher melting point than the lead.


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    lbbf

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    Not true. Glocks do have supported chambers. The first gen Glocks didn't have fully supported chambers and did have some trouble with the Glock kaboom but all others are fully supported. I've shot thousands of rounds from my glock, reloaded them and shot again.
     

    sergeant69

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    Not true. Glocks do have supported chambers. The first gen Glocks didn't have fully supported chambers and did have some trouble with the Glock kaboom but all others are fully supported. I've shot thousands of rounds from my glock, reloaded them and shot again.

    true. the issue has been addressed and resolved years ago. every mfg says don't shoot reloads. its a legal disclaimer lawyer driven thing.
     

    lbbf

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    Lake Jackson
    CaseSupport2-1.jpg

    Not sure what you are trying to say here. Early glocks did have less chamber support than newer glocks. Glock never did admit a problem but they did increase the chamber support. No semi auto pistol that I know of completely supports the brass. The feed ramps prevent that from happening. Here is a picture showing the change in support. I got the picture from http://www.thesixgunjournal.net/an-...-or-lack-thereof-in-glock-40-caliber-pistols/
     

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    sergeant69

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    i'm agreeing with you about the chamber support being resolved in glocks years ago, as illustrated by the pic you just posted.
    as far as the reloading issue with glocks, theres no issue! they shoot reloads fine. but...try sending any pistol back that is malfunctioning and tell em you are shooting reloads in it and see what they say. or rifle. buddy just has a S&W 500 lock up on him so he called the factory and the first they said was are you shooting reloads in it. he of course said no and they said good/ok sent him a shipping label.
     
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