1898 Springfield 30/40 Krag HELP!

[Rseawolf]

Okay, As most, my Krag was pasted down to me by my Grandfather. It is in great shape for being over 100 years old. This rifle was probably last shot back in the late 50's early 60's. Now I want to deer hunt with it this season as my Grandfather did many of time. You know "keep the tradition going" so to speak. Here is the problem. It's over 100 years old! I don't want it to blow up in my face. I have been told to get it Magnafluxed by a professional Gunsmith and have searched all over the web and can't find anyone. I live in North Texas around Dallas and I'm willing to go almost anywhere to solve this problem. Does anyone out there know someone that knows someone that has an Uncle that does this sort of work. Thanks for any help,

Ron

 

[jrbfishn]

Curious. Who told you it needed to be magnafluxed and why?
I know several people that use them to hunt. None of them have had it done that I know of. But what you may want to do is look into people that do weld testing.

sent from an idgit coffeeholic

 

[Texasjack]

The Krag was designed to handle modern ammunition. There are many, many of those old rifles still being used. Unless you have some problem with the barrel - like a bulge (from some past mistake) or serious internal corrosion - I don't know why you would need to have it tested.

Keep in mind that there are thousands of 1911s that were made before or during WWI that are still being shot. Likewise many Savage 99s and Winchester 94s that date back to that time. Quality firearms can easily last for long periods of time. There are some guns from that time period that were "Saturday Night Specials" that one might worry about - esp. as some of them were junk when they were made. The Krag is most definitely NOT in that category.

 

[Moonpie]

OP, relax. Your rifle is probably just fine.
The main weakness of the US Krag is the single locking lug on the bolt. They're known to crack.
Easy to check.
Remove the bolt from the rifle.
To remove the bolt on the Krag isn't difficult but is a bit tricky until you've done it a few times.
Open the bolt and pull it fully rearward.
Using your finger, lift up on the tip of the extractor hook on the front of the bolt. The extractor is the flat metal piece along the top of the bolt. It should be a dark blue/black color while the bolt itself should be white/silver.
alift the extractor up on the tip and gently rotate to bolt handle counter clockwise about 1/8 turn until the bolt handle is almost vertical. At the same time as doing this be gently pulling the bolt out of the receiver. Sounds more complicated than it is.
Once you have to bolt out carefully inspect the front lug on the bolt.
If it's good to go just re-install the bolt in the opposite order. You will have to guide it in and hold the extractor in place as you rotate the bolt back into place. It will snap right in if done correctly. DO NOT force it!

Factory ammo is available for the .30-40 but it's pricey.

 

[Rseawolf]

Thanks for the thoughts. The person that told me to have it checked out didn't know how well this gun was taken care of. Thanks again!

 

[Rseawolf]

I will look it over. Thanks for the ideas.

 

[Rseawolf]

I will check it out. Thanks

 

[Moonpie]

You don't have to lift the front of the extractor very far. Maybe an eighth of an inch. Just enough to clear the rib on the top of the bolt.