Depends on the gun. Sig P series need grease on the rails, and I also grease the barrel lug and the bearing parts on the slide. I use SlideGlide for that. The action parts get a drop or two of either Hoppes oil, or CLP (Weapon Shield or Breakfree) The outsides get a wipe down with CLP. The Poly guns (Glocks and HK) get mostly CLP, although I do put a tinny dab of grease on the slide rails.
Rem Oil is a great product, but I find it evaporates rather quickly. I had a shot gun that developed a rust spot, even though I used to take it out and spry it with RemOil every two or three months. I might have let it go for 6 months when that rust showed up. My storage guns are now coated with Rig grease. I do use RemOil in the action of my bolt gun for winter time. It lubs really well, and doesn't gum up in cold weather.
I think I'm going to switch to grease on the rails of my Sig. For whatever reason, I've tried lots of different oils and they just don't seem to stick around very long on my Sigs I've owned. Normally I use Break Free CLP for most other stuff or sometimes Hoppes #9.
I think I'm going to switch to grease on the rails of my Sig. For whatever reason, I've tried lots of different oils and they just don't seem to stick around very long on my Sigs I've owned
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That's especially important on the Stainless Steel Nitron finished slides and alloy frames. The Nitron is very hard and abrasive, and will wear the anodizing off of the frame rails pretty quickly without lubrication. Enos Slide Glide seems to be the preferred product. I use the med weight in winter and heavy for summer. TW25B is good as well, it just doesn't stay put as well as Slide Glide. Rig +p works well if you can find it.
I don't know if I can personally tell the difference in my gun oil from summer to winter, but I was wondering if I would notice a difference using the grease. The only pistol I have right now is my CZ 75 and yes the rem oil does seem to disappear off the slide pretty quick.
Synthetic molybdenum disulfide grease on the bearing surfaces, light rubdown with an oily rag elsewhere. Rem Oil, Hoppes (which is just 3-in-1/sewing machine/tool oil), whatever.
I've been sold on the moly grease because of work. It bonds to the metal, and even if it gets washed off, the moly bonded to the metal lasts a while. It actually works better if you get it hot enough to dry up.
Plus, I get little packets of it free at work in brake pad packages. I have a tub of it at work because the little packets aren't enough for a brake job, but they're good for about a dozen pistol/rifle cleanings.
My Sig and AK haven't complained or worn out using the stuff, so I'm happy.
anything with CLP in it seems to last a long time. dont remember what CLP stands for ,but it works.You dont need grease to make metal to metal parts work if they are fitted correctly{sic}
Clean it. lube it, and wipe down the excess.
Too much lube or grease tends to attract dust and other nasty items.
Quite a few years ago a friend of mind thought that wd-40 was the ultimate cleaner and lube. Opening morning of dove season he fired the first shot out of his 1100 remmy, barely shooting light. Flame came out of the ejection port and under the forearm. Burnt the O-ring up and scared the **** out of him. After that little incident he had a single shot gun all day.
You dont need to saturate them and you need to use the correct lube.