Annealing, any of you all do it?

[xdmikey]

How important is it?

Out of 29 rounds 10 split the neck or shoulder. Load was 23.4 AA2230. Not a blasty one at all. Various cases, different dates/brands but several were LC. All the LC is once fired when I got it. It's more trouble but I know it's once fired that way.

Bottom line: what do you know about annealing?

Thanks

 

[m5215]

Sorry, I am not into analing.

 

[skfullgun]

When I pray, I am usually a-kneelin'.
To seriously answer your question, I believe it is more commonly needed on brass that has been reformed multiple times, and on some military calibers of brass that is harder than normal.

 

[Ozzman]

The first step in my rifle brass preparation is to anneal each case for 4 to 5 seconds under a butane torch; every single time.
I have .270 brass in the 9th and 10th reloading, and still going strong with no signs of cracks or head separation.

 

[Ozzman]

How important is it?

To answer your question, if it's just for plinking at 100 yards with mild to light loads, it's not too important.
If you have high-quality brass with full-power loads, and you want your brass to last a few firings; it is very important.

Unlike steel cases, brass is very ductile and is susceptible to work hardening. The act of shooting expands the brass, and the sizing die shrinks it down. Expanding, shrinking, expanding, and shrinking; the brass behaves like a paper clip that is bent back and forth a few times. Eventually, it will fail along the weakest point which is usually the neck (splits), or the body of the case just below the shoulder (separation).

IME, annealing is also important for consistent accuracy beyond 500 yards.
The hardness of the brass itself is what holds the bullet in place within the neck. The harder the brass, the harder the hold. You want your cases to have a firm but light consistent grasp.

 

[Txmark]

I was having groups getting larger with loads that were sub moa. A couple of the bench rest shooters at the range explained to me that my neck tension wasn’t right. They explained that when you repeatedly load and shoot the brass, it gets work hardened. Then when you re-size the case, the neck is not properly sized. This results in erratic neck tension and when you seat the bullets, some will show some resistance while others seem to fall into the case. Annealing softens the brass and makes it pliable, which also extends the life of the brass by reducing metal fatigue. After I started annealing, my groups were better and I noticed the chronograph readings were lower and more consistent.


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[Axxe55]

I anneal the cases at about every 5th to 6th loading. I do mine because it prolongs the usage of the brass, and brass is expensive.

 

[Dawico]

How important is it?

Out of 29 rounds 10 split the neck or shoulder. Load was 23.4 AA2230. Not a blasty one at all. Various cases, different dates/brands but several were LC. All the LC is once fired when I got it. It's more trouble but I know it's once fired that way.

Bottom line: what do you know about annealing?

Thanks

You might have an issue with the chamber of your firearm. Sounds loose.

That's a high failure rate for the second firing.

Annealing might help but would be a bandaid.

 

[Mike_from_Texas]

Not yet. I’m saving up for an AMP annealer.


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[Dawico]

BTW I have been seriously considering annealing for the reasons stated above about neck tension.

 

[Axxe55]

BTW I have been seriously considering annealing for the reasons stated above about neck tension.

Neck tension is another factor of accuracy, and consistency of the loads.

 

[Txmark]

I got the Annealeez with all the different wheels for $325 delivered. It’s pretty simple to set up and operate. It will do a case about every 5 seconds.


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[Axxe55]

I got the Annealeez with all the different wheels for $325 delivered. It’s pretty simple to set up and operate. It will do a case about every 5 seconds.


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I use a cordless drill, a small socket and a small propane torch!

 

[Dawico]

I use a cordless drill, a small socket and a small propane torch!

The problem with that method is control.

 

[Younggun]

Yep. Tough to get consistent results.

I’ve been able to improve consistency on some milsurp brass using a metronome timer and lots of care. But starting with quality brass it probably would have been a net negative.


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[TexMex247]

I'd agree with dawico about a potential headspace or chamber issue. I've had plenty of bottle neck cartridges make it past 5 loadings with no head separation or neck splitting. Most of my lake City or wolf brass was factory annealed already. I'm sure there's a benefit to doing it every time but I don't have the time or patience.

 

[Axxe55]

The problem with that method is control.

Probably not the optimum method for sure, but I only usually anneal 50 to 100 cases at any time. I only do the neck and shoulder area, and for my needs of annealing, it seems to work fine.

 

[Txhillbilly]

How important is it?

Out of 29 rounds 10 split the neck or shoulder. Load was 23.4 AA2230. Not a blasty one at all. Various cases, different dates/brands but several were LC. All the LC is once fired when I got it. It's more trouble but I know it's once fired that way.

Bottom line: what do you know about annealing?

Thanks

What dates are stamped on the LC brass?

I bought a bunch of virgin unfired LC brass several years ago. I thought it was weird being able to buy virgin LC brass because I'd never seen it for sale before. It is all 2009 - 2012 LC 223/5.56 brass.
Evidently, It is bad brass because I have a large percentage of it splitting the necks on the first firing, especially the 2010 & 2011 dated cases.
I don't even try to save it now, I just load it, shoot it, and leave it on the ground.

I'm still shooting LC cases made back in 1976, so I know these virgin cases were probably defective- either under or over annealed when produced, and rejected by Lake City. I bought 8k cases from Natchez back in 2013, that's the only place I've ever seen selling virgin LC brass.

I do anneal all of my precision cartridges, but they are all premium brass cases like Lapua, Norma, Starline, etc.. I anneal after every 2-3 firings.
The only production type brass that I anneal are cases that I neck up or down for other caliber's like 243 into 260 brass or 270 into 6.5-06 brass, and when I make wildcat brass.

 

[Gummi Bear]

Yep. Tough to get consistent results.

I’ve been able to improve consistency on some milsurp brass using a metronome timer and lots of care. But starting with quality brass it probably would have been a net negative.


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Use some Tempilaq

It will change color at the right temperature so you don’t over or under anneal

TEMPILAQ TEMPILAQ® | Brownells

Laboratory control, minimum cost. For furnace or open flame hardening and tempering of steel parts. Apply thin smear to surface to be ...

www.brownells.com

I use a metronome as a timer after finding out what time it takes.




I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately...

Henry David Thoreau

 

[Younggun]

Use some Tempilaq

It will change color at the right temperature so you don’t over or under anneal

TEMPILAQ TEMPILAQ® | Brownells

Laboratory control, minimum cost. For furnace or open flame hardening and tempering of steel parts. Apply thin smear to surface to be ...

www.brownells.com

I use a metronome as a timer after finding out what time it takes.




I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately...

Henry David Thoreau

Yes, that’s necessary for the initial determination on timing, but it still doesn’t offer true consistency.

I guess you could build a rig to hold everything perfectly in place and only have to deal with moving the case in and out at the proper time. But by that point it would probably be easier to get something made for annealing and get better results still.


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