Another AR thread...

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  • Dust

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    Nov 24, 2008
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    Mito, Japan/Georgetown, Texas
    Yeah, my apologies, but thought I should talk to someone aside from AR15.com There is way too much jargon, and even the accessories don't make much sense to me. This is what I want

    Welcome to Model 1 Sales' Online Order Center

    but the lower, and the accessories just don't make sense.

    I want to plink, with reasonable accuracy for 200 yards on varmints and hogs. Deer I guess some, but that may fall to the SKS or the .308 i am also looking at. Want a scope.

    Do I buy separate, or try to find a complete rifle?
     

    djspump2003

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    Oct 19, 2008
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    Austin
    Yeah, my apologies, but thought I should talk to someone aside from AR15.com There is way too much jargon, and even the accessories don't make much sense to me. This is what I want

    Welcome to Model 1 Sales' Online Order Center

    but the lower, and the accessories just don't make sense.

    I want to plink, with reasonable accuracy for 200 yards on varmints and hogs. Deer I guess some, but that may fall to the SKS or the .308 i am also looking at. Want a scope.

    Do I buy separate, or try to find a complete rifle?
    To answer your last question first, the primary question is does price matter to you?

    The complete rifle (assuming you can find one around here these days that is a varmint upper like that) is going to cost at least $300 more than if you build it yourself.

    If you buy the "rifle kit" you linked to, the only thing missing is the stripped lower receiver. That is what the upper attached to and houses the trigger assembly, pistol grip, magwell, etc. That is the "gun" part that a firearms dealer has to sell. Last weekend at the gun range, I saw one that was $160. Your rifle kit comes with a "lower receiver parts kit." That includes all of the pins, springs, and trigger group you need, plus a stock, buffer tube and spring. If you are good with your hands and like to put things together, it is pretty easy and you don't need any special tools to assemble the lower. I speak from experience as I bought my M4 this way and saved $300. It was not only easy, but I thought it was fun to do it myself.

    I hope that broke the jargon down a little better.
     

    busdriver72

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    I just went through the same thing, but fortunately it was a few weeks ago before the panic. The amount I could have saved through buying the parts I wanted as opposed to searching and finding a complete gun in a platform I wanted wasn't significant enough to make it worth it to me.
    But that's just me.
     

    kingofwylietx

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    Feb 29, 2008
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    DFW area.....Wylie.
    What is the real advantage of a 2-stage trigger such as the one above?

    I know the difference between a smooth, crisp, match trigger vs a standard trigger......but what's the 2-stage deal??
     

    50calRay

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    Jun 17, 2008
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    blah
    Build it.

    Seriously, building an AR is easier than you can imagine. There is a few videos posted on Youtube and AR15.com has a write up with pictures. If you want to make it even more simple, just pick up a complete lower and upper. All you do is put the two halves together and pop the pins.
     

    accordingtoome

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    Oct 13, 2008
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    its only cheaper if you want to put some high end rails or get a little crazy with your upper selection. if you want a bare bones quality rifle its about the same as just buying it. for what he wants i would suggest a DPMS Sportical. you can get them for about $650.00. You can backorder them on a few sites and get it locked in at that price.
    Fit and finish i think is better than most Stag/ Bushy rifles i have seen.

    building it yourself is fun but its also a pain in the ass. but i will tell you one other thing. Compared to an AK build (im finding out) an AR is a cake walk
     

    Dust

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    Nov 24, 2008
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    Mito, Japan/Georgetown, Texas
    Actually, I think the comparable DPMS would be the bull 20. But again

    http://www.webarms.com/Gun%20Suppliers/dpms/DPMS%20LR%20Upgrades.htm

    I have all of this to decide on, and I don't have an FFL to ship to, and to be honest, I don't even know what it stands for. I am pretty sure what it means.

    What good would the barrel length do for less than 300 yards? 16, or 20, or 24?

    Price range for now is $1000, but if I can setup a good .308 bolt for less than $1000, then the AR price can go up.
     

    navyguy

    TGT Addict
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    Oct 22, 2008
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    DFW Keller
    If you go with M1S, from their offerings the .20 in .223 will probably give you the best accuacy. If you want .308, DPMS is you're best bet.

    FFL = Federal Firearms License. Basically a gun store. Most will do a transfer for you. That is if you purchase a lower from someone online out of state, they will ship it in your name to the gun store (FFL) you make the arrangements with. Then when it comes in to that local store, you go down, fill out the paper work, and they will charge you a fee for doing that. $20-35 is normal in my area, but I've heard some places charge $50 and up. You need to shop that around.
     
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