Military Camp

Any holster makers here?

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  • LHB1

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    Not commercially but I've made several for myself. Models include lined pouch style belt holster for S&W M629, lined shoulder holster for scoped S&W M629 Classic, and lined belt holster with full flap for S&W M41 use in the field. All holsters are basket stamped and oil finished.
     

    LHB1

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    On my current holsters I lined them with soft suede leather and wet fitted/hand boned the holster to pistol wrapped in light wax paper. After fully dried, I used Neatsfoot Oil finish on the holsters. If I make any more, I plan to line them with smooth, thin (non-suede) leather and try a different, harder type finish. Will need to try some experiments on scrap leather to see what kind of stain and top finish works well. I normally like my leather goods with oil finish or stained a Cordovan color. Also use calfskin leather lacing and lace the holsters instead of sewing them.

    Where/how do you make/get your patterns? I wrap old-style paper grocery bag around a gun and trim to desired shape. This becomes my pattern. This technique was the only way I could design a nice looking, practical holster shape for the scoped S&W M629 revolver. Early lesson: mark the inside and outside of paper pattern. Found out the hard way that you have to know which is inside or outside when you lay the paper pattern on a piece of leather for cutting. This can be especially tricky for smooth leather linings.
     

    Shorts

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    For my patterns, I use a manilla folder or cereal box to trace the lines of the gun (I have a pen and pencil taped side by side, each writing end on each side) and use that for my spacing for the stitch lines around the gun.

    Once that is done, I freehand the overall shape of the holster around it, then cut out the pattern. I trace that pattern onto the rough side of my leather with a pen, then cut it out. (This is where you have to make sure you lay the pattern down so that the smooth side is out).

    Once the leather is cut out, I take my pattern, place it on top and with my scratch awl, I prick each corner/curve of the gun's lines through the manilla onto the leather...make only a tiny hole on the leather! I then connect the straight lines with my groover using a flat edge. I freehand the curves. For outside edges of the holster, I just use the stitch groover spaced the thickness of the holster. I wet the grooves and run over them with the stitching wheel.

    Then I glue the two pieces together, let them dry, and then punch the holes w/diamond shaped awl and sew it up.

    This time around I think I'm going to dye the holster before molding.


    You use Neatsfoot on the holsters. Have they retained their mold? I've read Neatsfoot will loosen up a molded holster.


    I'm experimenting with finishes right now too. I don't have access to any Angelus leather dye so I'm trying the old vinegar and ___(anything) trick to get a dye. Also with this method, I need to be sure the neutralization in water/baking soda is enough that the acid in the dye solution does not eventually eat away at my blue gun. <-- but I guess if that happens, I'll be pulling out the ol' parkerizing setup and hitting that :)
     

    LHB1

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    Quote: "You use Neatsfoot on the holsters. Have they retained their mold? I've read Neatsfoot will loosen up a molded holster. "

    I keep hearing this also but didn't know about such things when I made my first holster 38 years ago. Haven't seen any softening of my holsters yet but I don't fit them quite as tight as those by top modern holster makers. If I ever get around to making a field holster for my Marvel conversion unit on 1911 frame, I will probably not use Neatsfoot oil if I can find a good Cordovan dye/finish. Such finger intensive work is not as easy these days as it used to be. Fingers get tired/sore quicker and I have to space out the work.
     

    Shorts

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    I figured you wouldn't use it if it didn't work for you ;) But great to hear your experience with it on your holsters.

    I know what you mean about sire fingers. Only my right hand is good so doing any tedious work is really difficult. I would like to find a reasonable leather sewing machine. It would drastically reduce the pain (assuming I don't sew my fingers to the leather) and speed up production time.


    On another note, dye - I'm trying to work out a brown dye from scratch. I don't have access to leather dyes around here so I'm trying to go about using the vinegar methods. Any ideas?


    Longtooths, Nate does some fine work with the holsters. Oh and everybody loves a Marine :D
     

    LHB1

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    "Reasonable leather sewing machine?" The only time I tried checking on those, the answers were mostly laughter. Seemed that "reasonable" didn't fit with "leather sewing machine". Hope you have better luck than I did.

    Sorry, I'm totally blank on dyes, home made or otherwise. That is one reason I used Neatsfoot Oil as it didn't require a separate dye. Have you tried searching the ubiquitous Internet for some recipes? Or is there any source available to you in Japan for leather dyes/finishes/info? I think they do such work there but don't know how to go about inquiring. A.G. Russell (of A.G. Russell Knives: http://www.agrussell.com/index.html has some contacts/sources in Japan for knives, leather knife sheaths, etc. Don't know if he would/could put you in touch with someone there or not but you could send him an e-mail at:
    ag@agrussell.com
     

    Shorts

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    Ahh, I think a reasonable machine can be had. I was looking through youtube and this guy has some interesting items http://www.shop.raphaelsewing.com/

    From what I've seen, a grand for a setup does not seem completely unreasonable when compared to most guns these days can easily cost $800 out the door. So, a machine is right on the edge of practical I think. But it can be the top of the hill in deciding to go for more production type setup.
    Prior to seeing the above site, I figured a sewing machine was out of the question.

    Thanks for the contact info for Russell. I've got a few more experiments on dyes I'm running so if I don't find a satisfactory solution, I'll send him an email. I looked through JPN websites, found a couple good sites for supplies, the rest were focused on selling produced goods. Unfortunately dye selection on those sites was all Feibing's, which is what I did not want :o
     

    LHB1

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    When I was looking for a leather sewing machine, I wasn't contemplating commercial use so $1000 would be way out of line for just a few holsters made for my own use. Am not familiar with any dyes. What is undesirable about Feibings products?
     

    Shorts

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    On Feibing's, regarding the oil-based dyes, they can be splotchy and somewhat difficult to work with. The alcohol based seems to saturate the leather more complete. Angelus is a good dye to work with.

    I've got a homebrew vinegar based dye I'm experimenting with now. And I just ordered some EcoFlo water-based dye I'm hoping will get through customs. I'll be trying out different methods and see what works well for me and go from there. Now, if I can get my fingers to stop hurtin :D
     

    LHB1

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    On Feibing's, regarding the oil-based dyes, they can be splotchy and somewhat difficult to work with. The alcohol based seems to saturate the leather more complete. Angelus is a good dye to work with. .... Now, if I can get my fingers to stop hurtin :D

    Thanks for that info. Will keep it in mind if I make another holster and I DO understand about the fingers hurting.
     

    Shorts

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    Here's the holster I'm about finished with. I'm waiting on the punch to set the snaps.

    Utility holster 1 (mocked up to airsoft Colt Commander)
     

    LHB1

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    VERY nice looking holster with great stitching. Looks like you are about ready to turn pro and start taking orders.
     

    Shorts

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    Thanks. I had several goofs when stitching so a couple spots here and there. I punch with an awl and that really keeps the stitch lines nice. But overall, I just need to get into the swing of things.

    I'm wearing the holster now, trying it out. Not too bad after I figured out which way to snap the straps so the holster sits well. Instead of snapping them as pictured, The snaps will be on the inside (between the belt and holster). I think that configuration also helps with my lady like hips. Adds just enough space to offset the gun and keep the butt end from digging into my rib cage./ Should sit pretty well on a guy too. From the side, makes it look like the holster is floating because you cant see straps :o

    (no snaps attached yet)
     

    LHB1

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    Interesting design and well executed holster. Looks like the design gives you a free sight track where the two pieces of leather join at front of holster. It really spreads the weight across a large length of belt and shouldn't sag or droop. +1 on not digging the gun butt into your ribs. I caught the bottom of a holster on my steering wheel while getting into the car and the pistol butt was jabbed hard into my ribs. Bruised them pretty good I think.
     

    Shorts

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    Thanks. For the sight track, what I normally do when I wet mold is insert an appropriately sized dowel that sits on the sights the length of the slide. This helps keep the slot.

    This is the first holster I built using a reinforced mouth. It really changes the dynamics when molding, especially the position of gun as far as centered in the holster.
     

    LHB1

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    Thanks. For the sight track, what I normally do when I wet mold is insert an appropriately sized dowel that sits on the sights the length of the slide. This helps keep the slot.

    This is the first holster I built using a reinforced mouth. It really changes the dynamics when molding, especially the position of gun as far as centered in the holster.

    Neat trick for keeping the sight track open during boning operation. What is it about the reinforced mouth that affects the molding/centering of gun in holster?

    ps: Have you given that holster a model number yet? S01 or something?
     

    Shorts

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    The reinforced mouth made the front of the holster harder to mold. It also forced the gun into the rear half a lot further than I prefer. With that, it creates a gap in the forward area of the holster and makes the belt loop/strap essentially shorter. This pull on the belt in a weird way.

    That's why on this holster I decided to put the snaps inside, it fit lol

    I have not numbered the holster. So far, in my pics I'm labeling it 'Utility holster'. I figured if it went bad, it'd be a range rat :D
     
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