Black Powder Gunsmiths Near Austin

[rodwha]

I am wondering about BP gunsmiths near me who do such things as bore barrels to a smoothbore, line barrels, and ream revolver chambers to proper dimensions. The results from a Google search aren't what I'm looking for.

 

[jrbfishn]

Just curious, I shoot BP pistols also, but what pistols you need that kind of work on and why? If I knew of someone, I would tell you. But any competent smith should be able if they are willing.

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[rodwha]

I have a Pietta Remington NMA. The chambers from the factory were .446" with a .452" bore. I had someone real them to .449" but am considering getting closer to .452". The barrel doesn't come crowned either.

But I am thinking of a Lyman Trade Rifle barrel reamed to 28 ga and possibly adding a screw-in choke.

I really like that Lyman barrels are inexpensive and an easy drop-in. I feel this could be a versatile platform much like a T/C Contender with various barrels. And so options become wide open with barrel lining.

There's a fellow who's widely recommended named Bobby Hoyt that does all of this but he's always booked up and hard to get ahold of as he has no website. I'd much prefer to have someone more local where a short drive can take care of things.

There are other cap and ball revolvers I have an eye for that may also need chambers reamed.

I've also thought having my NMA shortened would be rather interesting. I'd much prefer a dovetailed sight as it shoots a bit left (maybe crowning would fix this?) so it would allow for windage adjustment.

 

[rodwha]

It seems a few of the smiths that came up in my initial google search were very specific and didn't deal with BP stuff or only lined barrels with specific cartridges calibers.

 

[Oldfalguy]

The only BP guy I know is in Gatesville- Jay Strite Company called Ravens Roost. Does the Krist Cylinders and taught me a helluva lot.

 

[rodwha]

So you drive out that far for your needs? A bit further than I'd prefer to have to drive but a 2 hr drive isn't the end of the world. And as long as I could avoid the horrific I-35 all is well, right?

 

[Oldfalguy]

Not a drive I would relish at all on any basis now. Its been several years since I was up in his shop. He took the time to actual do the work while I was there. Tuned up my NMA, Ruger Army and 1860 Colt. I converted the NMA and Colt to cartridge. Really work well.
A few years later I managed to obtain 2 of the 3 NMA .22 short conversions know to exist. I sent one to Jay for him to make an affordable copy for everyone. Jay and Mr. Krist of Krist converters are in business together for last 5-7 years. I do not know why you need the reaming work, never did any to mine but the best gunsmith I have worked with recently is BlackJack off Pond Springs Road in Austin.Do not know if he does much BP but he will tell you straight up if he can or can't do something.

 

[jrbfishn]

The cylinders should be a bit smaller on those to seal the all and powder. Pietta are generally pretty good. Don't have the stuff hany to measure any of mine. What is the diameter of the lands in the barrel? That would be most important. As long as the ball diameteris smaller than the land diameter you should be fine.
Every BP pistol I have ever shot or owned would shave lead off the ball when loaded. Never had a problem with accuracy or power.
If you could bring it to the Family Reunion at Texas Star on the 7th, thete will be several of us there that shoot BP.

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[rodwha]

Modern guns, when loading lead, the projectile is typically 0.001" over bore (groove) diameter. This is what many BP match shooters have done, which is how a Ruger Old Army comes (.453" chambers and .452" grooves).

I know that pure lead projectiles will obturate with enough pressure. How much is necessary I'm not sure. I'd prefer not to require much though. But even some of the match shooters swear by this. Not that I'm a pistolero able to do as well as they do. But I use mine to hunt with.

A ball needs to be well oversized as it needs driving bands and enough lead there to obturate. Not so with a conical/bullet, which is what I prefer and have had Accurate Molds create me a few designs with wide meplats, though those were well oversized at .456".

The land diameter of my 2013 NMA is ~.442" and not what you'd want your ball size at as it would just drop into the chamber without a friction fit.



The groove diameter is ~.452" or a modern .45 cal, and closer to what you want your projectile to be:

Post images isn't working so I'll have to try again.

One pistol, which I'm not sure I care enough about, but do seem a bit too enamored with is the Pietta Remington Pocket .31. The chambers on those are ridiculously undersized at around .315" with a groove diameter of .326" or so. Using a "properly" sized ball gives very poor results. But using a well oversized ball produced much better results. You can see by the results of the same powder charge but larger ball created much different results:

http://poconoshooting.com/blackpowderballistics.html

 

[Moonpie]

If you find one let me know.
I've an old Zoli Zouave i want to cut down to musketoon size. Need the harrel cut, crowned, new tall front sight, etc.

 

[rodwha]

Postimages is working again. Here's the lands:

%5Burl=https://postimg.org/image/ba14ndp3v/] [/URL]

Here's the groove:

%5Burl=https://postimg.org/image/bmsitjznv/] [/URL]

And these are the bullets Tom at Accurate Molds created for me next to a .457" ball:

%5Burl=https://postimg.org/image/snbf25ztn/] [/URL]

Initially I thought my NMA would come with the slower RB twist of 1:30" and so I created some rather short for caliber bullets. However checking it myself I found it's about 1:16" like my ROA. Working up loads for both using plenty of powder for velocity yet finding the more accurate charge proved to leave a bit of excess chamber. Since the wide meplat will create a nice wound channel I'd prefer to fill that empty space with lead rather than felt or cereal giving it a little better penetration. From my measurements and estimations I anticipate the next bullet to be around 230-245 grns. And I'll reduce the diameter to .454" from .456" as I don't need to shave lead with a conical but would still prefer a slightly oversized projectile.

That's Gatofeo's #1 homemade lube in the grooves. Works quite well. And those lube grooves are rather small as a short barrel just doesn't need as much as some I've seen, which just reduce the overall weight.

The long bullet on the left weighs 285 grns and is intended for use only in the Ruger as it's made with modern gun steel and accept the higher pressures, the reason I designed the driving bands much longer as it's length takes up a lot of powder capacity, that it will create. I sent some of these to a fellow who decided to load it into a Colt Walker with 52 grns of Pyrodex P and blew his cylinder wide open!

The others weigh 195 grns and 170 grns and are .460" and .400" long.

I will also modify the seating base as my design is rather short. And I'm debating reducing the meplat from .375" to .355" after reading a bit on wide meplat design.

 

[jrbfishn]

Ok, I misundetstood what you where trying to do. I've never seen those tables before. Need to check that place out some more later. Very nice. Several of us shoot BP, but I think Moonpie is the only one that is even close to that level.
And you REALLY need to make a family reunion meet. Sounds like you have some really fun stuff.
I wish I knew someone that could you. Would be fun to see the results.

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[jrbfishn]

And the Gatofeo lube, please elaborate.
I reload .45 BP cartridges that may work for.

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[Moonpie]

Gatofeo lube is what I use as well.
It works great in revolvers.
Little too stiff for patches tho.
I leave out the paraffin for roundball patches.

 

[jrbfishn]

Found it. Never used mutton tallow before. Lard, beeswax and parafin, yes. Miht have to try that with the cartridges though. I need something besides what I can usually buy. It is too hard.

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[rodwha]

Ok, I misundetstood what you where trying to do. I've never seen those tables before. Need to check that place out some more later. Very nice. Several of us shoot BP, but I think Moonpie is the only one that is even close to that level.
And you REALLY need to make a family reunion meet. Sounds like you have some really fun stuff.
I wish I knew someone that could you. Would be fun to see the results.

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So what's the family reunion meet?

 

[rodwha]

Gatofeo lube is what I use as well.
It works great in revolvers.
Little too stiff for patches tho.
I leave out the paraffin for roundball patches.

I've seen that a couple of people claim it works for patches. I've yet to work on legit patch lubes as I was merely having fun breaking in the barrel and just used what the wife allowed me to take from the pantry (grape seed oil), which I doubt was great.

Currently I use it on felt wads, my pistol bullets, and Lee REALs, and I know of a few who make lube cookies with them and state they do not seem to effect the powder charge even long term loaded.

Gatofeo claimed he tried just about everything imaginable and found mutton tallow to be the best. Climate no doubt dictates this though and I'm not sure where he lives. Having been a historic lube from the late 1800's is kinda cool though.

 

[rodwha]

Oh, and the best pace I've found for mutton tallow is Dixie Gun Works, but a local butcher is possibly better and lacking shipping fees.

 

[jrbfishn]

https://www.texasguntalk.com/threads/2017-oct-tgt-family-reunion.82852/
Lots of fun. Raffle, pot luck lunch, lots of BSing and a .22 dueling tree competition. And some occasional shooting.
One of the best things about it, is you get to meet others from the forum and put a face and personality to the screen names. Something you don't get to do on most forums. I've made some good friends there. Wouldn't miss it.

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[Moonpie]

I purchase the mutton tallow from Dixie as well.
A little pricey but a small tub makes a lot of lube.
The paraffin makes it stiff and it holds well in grease grooves.
Its quite dense as doesn't mush into cloth very well. You can hot dip but it wastes a lot of lube.
I've found 50/50 tallow to beeswax works good on patches. Depending on ambient temps adjust the ratio so it doesn't run.
Supposedly Gatofeo tried all manner of fats in his lube mixes and says mutton is the one that doesn't go rancid. Regular lard from the store has salt and acids in it for shelf preservation. No Bueno against gun steels.

SPG is lube is good stuff iff'n you just want to buy and forgo the mess and hassle of making it.
I agree with Gatofeo that you want to use a natural based fat instead of a petroleum based product in your lube.
Since its a hot chore I usually make a large batch once a year during the cooler months. I pour the molten lube into muffin moulds. Each "cake" is about 1/4pound. Then store these in a Tupperware container. They last all year.
This smells funky so do NOT make it in the house!
Ball&Chain=screaming Hell Beast monster if you do.
Please do not ask me how I know this.