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Bolting down safe - Post Tensioned Slap issues

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  • TexasBound

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    Nov 15, 2011
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    South Central Texas is known for homes with post tensioned slabs for a foundation. Damage a tendon when bolting down your safe can cost you $5k - $10k in damage to your foundation and it's possibly not even fixable I have been told.

    So to make sure and avoid that, some companies will scan your concrete with GPR ground penetrating radar - costs about $500 depending on how much time involved.

    To scan it, you have to pull up the carpet and clean any glue off the floor, then put down new pad and re-stretch carpet.

    If you hire a carpet pro, he's going to see the safe.

    If you change carpet do you just cut around the safe and leave the old carpet under it? (this safe will be HEAVY, it's a good one) - will also have 1/4" rubber mat under safe to help protect against moisture.

    Anyone ever go through all of this, any suggestions?

    thanks
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    Dawico

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    I'd just drill it. You can feel the bit hitting steel/ rebar so just stop and change the angle a bit. A masonry bit will have a hard time going through steel and you will know.

    But yes, when you replace the flooring just work around the safe
     

    Recoil45

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    My neighbor had an above ground shelter put in and the company used a cheap Zircon MT6 scanner to avoid the cables. Not sure if it was just for show or if this is an effective method.




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    oldag

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    If your safe is large, bolting really is not necessary. By the time you load it up, it will be too heavy to move. You could always put a thick steel plate in the bottom, or some lead shot.

    Small one, different story.
     

    Dawico

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    You could cut the carpet out of the way and glue it down to the concrete.

    If you do, use good construction adhesive and put the glue down in circles. Makes little suction cups and really amplifies the holding power.
     

    peeps

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    You could cut the carpet out of the way and glue it down to the concrete.

    If you do, use good construction adhesive and put the glue down in circles. Makes little suction cups and really amplifies the holding power.
    That's an interesting idea. How would someone go about moving it, if needed?
     

    Dawico

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    That's an interesting idea. How would someone go about moving it, if needed?
    You would have to cut it loose. Thin braided fishing line or similar and pull it back and forth to saw through it.

    At some point you would be able to pry it up. No clue when though.
     

    boomgoesthedynamite

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    I have read that you can drill shallow (less than 1") and typically be fine. What seems to be the safest is to add a concrete pad on top of the slab and bolt into that. I have seen them either bonded to the original pad or just a floating pad. Then if you move, you are only dealing with removal of a concrete pad.

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    popper

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    Good detector/user will find the rebar/cable but it is hard to pinpoint accurately. Good construction adhesive will keep it from being tipped over for use of hand/ref cart. Past that, crooks will just use an elec. rotary wheel to cut the door off.
     

    Dawico

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    Good detector/user will find the rebar/cable but it is hard to pinpoint accurately. Good construction adhesive will keep it from being tipped over for use of hand/ref cart. Past that, crooks will just use an elec. rotary wheel to cut the door off.
    Cutting a hole in the side is even easier but I agree.
     

    craigntx

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    We're in New Braunfels / San Marcos area.

    Place I found in San Antonio told me they couldn't. If you're guy has any info on someone close by, please let me know.

    thanks

    Maybe the confusion is in the mapping process. You obviously cant draw on carpet. He said they mark where the steel or cable is with duct tape on the carpet
     
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