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  • Dougw1515

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    Doug, this is simply an observation and opinion, so please accept it with a grain of salt.

    Personally, I do like the Remington 870 shotguns, and have owned several over the years. Solid, and dependable shotguns. But from what I have been seeing coming from Remington over the past several years, I'd steer clear of the Remington's. If you really want an 870, I'd let things blow over a bit and stabilize and then start looking for an older one.

    You might also look into the Mossberg 500's or 590's as well. Those are solid and dependable shotguns as well, and very much proven. The Maverick 88's are made by a company owned by Mossberg and those are really really good shotguns to consider as well.
    yeah I'm not married to an 870. In fact I was just looking at some tactical semi-automatics, mag fed that are some badass looking firearms. as I read gotta be careful with the semi-auto shotgun as some of them won't function properly with light load practice rounds.
     

    Axxe55

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    yeah I'm not married to an 870. In fact I was just looking at some tactical semi-automatics, mag fed that are some badass looking firearms. as I read gotta be careful with the semi-auto shotgun as some of them won't function properly with light load practice rounds.

    Let me throw you another option to check out. The Winchester SXP Defender. I bought one some years ago. 18.5" barrel, and five round tube. So far it's been a damn good shotgun.

    Personally, I use a lot of 2.75" shotgun shells, but try to buy shotguns that will accept a 3" shell in case I need them. As a matter of fact, much of my 00 buckshot shells are 3". A few more pellets than the 2.75" shells.
     

    Axxe55

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    It's something that will have to be done with a file, or some sort of rotary grinding tool. And if the frame is metal, it means doing a refinish of the frame.

    Unless you have really big hands, it's not a modification that I would recommend for most to do their pistol. Unless done very well, it will also decrease the value of the pistol to a potential future buyer of the pistol if you decided to sell or trade. And some gun shops, unless a modification is done by a gunsmith, or recognized name in the business, won't tough it with a ten foot pole.
     

    Dougw1515

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    It's something that will have to be done with a file, or some sort of rotary grinding tool. And if the frame is metal, it means doing a refinish of the frame.

    Unless you have really big hands, it's not a modification that I would recommend for most to do their pistol. Unless done very well, it will also decrease the value of the pistol to a potential future buyer of the pistol if you decided to sell or trade. And some gun shops, unless a modification is done by a gunsmith, or recognized name in the business, won't tough it with a ten foot pole.
    ALL of my guns are polymer - both of'em! Oh, I've got the tools to do the work with. At this time I'm not inclined to start whittling on'em. I figure at this point learning to hit what I'm aiming at is a worthy goal.
     

    Axxe55

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    ALL of my guns are polymer - both of'em! Oh, I've got the tools to do the work with. At this time I'm not inclined to start whittling on'em. I figure at this point learning to hit what I'm aiming at is a worthy goal.

    A polymer gun would be easier to modify, and wouldn't require refinishing when done either. But polymer being softer than metal, it can also be easier to go to far to easily as well.

    Careful thought needed to be assessed as to whether it's needed, and a person is willing to permanently alter their pistol doing the modification to the pistol. Once it's done, there's no going back.

    I have done a few 1911's with undecut trigger guards. The very first one I did, trust me, there was a severe butt pucker going on, in that I could very well be ruining a perfectly good pistol!
     

    Dougw1515

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    We ain't done yet! Just got off the phone with Cajun Gun works. After I installed their Pro Package in my phantom I got the single action trigger pull down to ~2.5#'s - which is good. The double action trigger, measured at 1/2 cocked, is coming in at ~7.75# - which is still more that what I'd like. Seems the ProPackage came with a 15# hammer spring(which impacts the double action trigger). The factory hammer spring comes in at 20#s. CGW offers a 13# hammer spring and an 11.5# hammer spring. These springs do not have any impact on the single action trigger. So... I just ordered both the 13# and 11.5# springs. The 11.5# spring, with some guns, is reportedly light striking and that is the reason I ordered the 13# spring - just in case. These springs required the installation of the CGW extended firing pin & spring - which comes with the Pro Package.
     

    DyeF9

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    We ain't done yet! Just got off the phone with Cajun Gun works. After I installed their Pro Package in my phantom I got the single action trigger pull down to ~2.5#'s - which is good. The double action trigger, measured at 1/2 cocked, is coming in at ~7.75# - which is still more that what I'd like. Seems the ProPackage came with a 15# hammer spring(which impacts the double action trigger). The factory hammer spring comes in at 20#s. CGW offers a 13# hammer spring and an 11.5# hammer spring. These springs do not have any impact on the single action trigger. So... I just ordered both the 13# and 11.5# springs. The 11.5# spring, with some guns, is reportedly light striking and that is the reason I ordered the 13# spring - just in case. These springs required the installation of the CGW extended firing pin & spring - which comes with the Pro Package.
    Did you already install an extended firing pin from CGW?

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
     

    Dougw1515

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    Did you already install an extended firing pin from CGW?

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
    Yes... I called CGW to confirm that the extended firing pin was indeed included in the ProPackage I just installed. I'm hoping the 11.5# spring works in my Phantom as there are some reports of light striking with it. That can be over come but may involve more that I'm wanting to do.Well see. The ProPackage came with the 15# spring where the CZ factory spring is 20#s.
     

    Dougw1515

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    Springs showed up yesterday - got it installed this morning.

    I installed the 11.5# spring. I have the 13# spring on hand just in case I get light strikes from the 11.5# spring.

    Little history. Not knowing exactly what tha' hell I was doing I measured the DA trigger pull with the hammer fully released. Later I found out that the pull weights CGW advertises is from the half-cocked hammer position. That makes sense because if the slide is racked and the the de-cocker lever is utilized it places the hammer in the half-cocked position. There's really no "safe" way to fully release the trigger with a round in the chamber. That said... When I recorded trigger pull weights from the fully released position I ended up with an avererage of a little over 10#'s pull. Let's call it 10#-4oz.

    Starting with the 10-4 as a base I polished everything you can polish as it relates to trigger pull friction and installed the CGW ProPackage.

    Just for comparison I measured the trigger pull from the fully released hammer position. With the polished parts n' pieces and the 15# hammer spring I averaged 7#-2.6oz. After installing the 11.5# spring that 7#-2.6oz dropped to a 10 pull average of 5-5.2 But those numbers are pretty worthless.

    With the hammer in the half-cocked position and with the 15# GWC ProPackage hammer spring I got a 10 pull average of 5#-7.0oz. Pretty good I'd say. I did shoot with that spring installed and between the polishing, new trigger shape of the GWC trigger and the 15# hammer spring I did manage to eliminate the trigger bite that made running 100+ rounds through the Phantom painful.

    Soooo... how good can it get? Removed the 15# spring and installed the 11.5# spring and went to work with my Lyman digital trigger scale. From the half-cocked position, with a 10 pull average, I'm now getting a trigger pull of 4#-5.5oz.

    To summarize:

    Single action pull went from (can't locate my numbers but it was ~ 6#s(I think))
    Single action pull after all mods: 2#-12.9oz.

    Double action(half-cocked) with 15# hammer spring and polished parts 7#-2.6oz.
    Double actio(half-cocked) with 11.5# hammer spring and polished parts 5# 7.0oz.

    Not much left to do now but 'choot'it.
     

    Dougw1515

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    Went to the range today. The 11.5# hammer spring was too light. Got continuous light strikes in the double action mode. Single action worked just fine. Replaced the 11.5# spring with the 13# spring problem solved. Bumped the double action trigger from 5# 7.0 oz. up to 6#-13.2oz.
     

    Dougw1515

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    I'm still waiting for Butter Cup V2.0!

    Seriously, glad you are finally getting the pistol working right.
    Thanks.... I also ran some rounds though the new P365. That was the first thing I shot today. With the exception of a couple of flyers I'm guessing it grouped @ 4" from 7 yards. Still plagued by the open groupings after just a few rounds. I think I'm tensing up and gripping even tighter that is compounding the issue. I'm pretty relaxed with the first mag find the target and pull the trigger fairly quickly. Then, it seems, if I get off a little I try a little harder gripping harder with the support hand while trying to relax with the trigger hand while I wasn't doing any of that stuff with the first magazine. I shot all 3 guns today and the P365 was the best of them all for groupings. I have a lot of problems with the FNS-9C and I don't really know why. Wasn't a lot better with the CZ Phantom. But... in the grand scheme of things my grouping are tightening up I'm just not real easy to please!
     
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