Buy new brass or buy loaded ammo.

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by Texas42, Nov 20, 2009.

  1. Texas42

    Texas42 TGT Addict

    Nov 21, 2008
    I'm loading for my 7mm remington mag. I have probably 18 brass and 12 nickel plated brass. Long story short, I need more brass.

    I can get new brass for about 50 cents a peice at Bass Pro (best I've seen for new brass in smaller quantities).

    Loaded ammo costs a bit more than a dollar/round (probably $1.20/round with tax.) The bullet and powder cost me about 50 cents.

    The price really isn't that big of a difference to really matter.

    I guess I'm asking if there is any real downside, other than cost, of simply using factory ammo brass.

  2. Dawico

    Dawico TGT Addict

    Oct 15, 2009
    Lampasas, Texas
    I have done both. If the loaded ammo has bullets and brass you want then do it. On the other hand, if the bullets are fmj and you are loading for a hunting rifle, unless you just want trigger time, then no.

    I have never bought unloaded brass for handguns. I like to feel the recoil of factory ammo compared to my loads. I also like to compare point of impact and velocity. I want my loads to match factory loads.

    If you can justify the extra cost to get what you are going to make anyway, go for it.
  3. randmplumbingllc

    randmplumbingllc Active Member

    Jun 15, 2009
    El Paso

    Just make SURE that the factory ammo has boxer primers or you will just end up with scrap brass.
  4. TexMex247

    TexMex247 Well-Known TGT Supporter

    May 11, 2009
    Leander(NW Austin)
    Buyin' new brass

    If you are only loading for one rifle and it's a bolt gun, the answer is simple. Reload your own fire-formed brass and neck size only. You'll maximize case life by neck sizin' only and increase your accuracy(even moreso than fully sized factory brass)by using the once fired cases. Now if you simply don't have enough to meet your needs, I guess it's worth buying some new stuff. If nothing else, it's always good to compare your reloads to factory rounds anyways. For my .280 remington, the fifty or so cases I had from seasons past are enough for me so far.
  5. shootmre steel

    shootmre steel New Member

    Jul 23, 2009
    East Texas
    What they said - in spades. Loading for your magnum is not going to be cost competitive with factory ammo. What it will get you is a much higher degree of reliability and accuracy. I load and shoot several large caliber rifle loads including 300 Win Mag. I also shoot and compare my loads to factory. Groups, Chrono etc... I actually find better, more accurate and consistent loads for my rifles at velocities lower than factory. Recoil is reduced and no loss in punch is given back. I am looking for that 5 shot nickle group in a slow fire string. Factory ammo can't do that.

    Buy a quantity of brass (Remingtons are hard but last. Winchester works well but is softer.) and enjoy making that beast perform. You aren't going to burn through that many rounds in this life anyway. They should all be the best you and your rifle can produce for you.
  6. Bullseye Shooter

    Bullseye Shooter Active Member

    Apr 28, 2008
    Texas Panhandle
    None of the U.S. mfg's use Berdan primers and I've never seen any European mfg's produce any 7mm Remington ammo with Berdan primers, so you don't have to worry about which has Boxer primers; they all do.
  7. Texas1911

    Texas1911 TGT Addict

    May 29, 2017
    Austin, TX
    I have a bunch of the 7mm brass if you want to buy some? PM sent.
  8. kensbrass

    kensbrass New Member

    Nov 24, 2009
    salt lake city
    Berdan primed 7mm Rem Mag?

    I sort maybe 300-500 lbs of brass a day and I have never seen a berdan primed 7mm Rem mag piece yet. Now, dont get me wrong, I am not saying that there is no such thing, but I buy alot of the brass the DOD puts up at auction and I have never seen that. Not once. If you have one, I would pay the shipping to see it.

    The biggest thing I see with the used 7mm brass and other non belted brass for that matter, is a thining or seperation line about 3/8" from the headstamp. With belted brass its harder to see. The brass in this area gets thin as the brass migrates up the case durring use. While at that same area a full length sizing die stops after traveling down the case by the case holder. Repeated flexing durring full length sizing in that same spot causes a hardening of the metal and soon you can see the 'line' on most cases after a couple of loads. ( Or sometimes the first hot load causes too much expansion. ) So just look for the 'line' just above the belt.

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