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Cracked 10/22 v-block

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  • Kyle

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    Feb 24, 2011
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    Conroe
    So I was putting my 10/22 back together last night after I did some duracoating... Well, when I was tightening the v-block down onto the barrel, the dumb thing cracked clean in half... has anyone else had this happen? I didn't think I was tightening it too tight... apparently I was though. Should I get the cheap-o factory replacement or should I stick out the extra cash for the heavy duty stainless v-block? (if you aren't sure what I am referring to, the v-block is that is the retaining block on the bottom of the barrel that locks and lifts the barrel into the receiver)

    Anyways, I thought it was strange that they made that piece out of what looks like pot metal...
    DK Firearms
     

    TexMex247

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    May 11, 2009
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    Leander(NW Austin)
    I have built about 8 of them and I've never cracked one. Never have had the need for a factory alternative. If it never felt all that tight as you were screwing it down, I would think that your barrel wasn't fully seated into the action or the block is/was not symmetric. If your barrel was recently out, you also want to make sure you "clock" the extractor groove properly. Either way, better that it broke than having it pull threads out of the receiver.
     

    Kyle

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    I have built about 8 of them and I've never cracked one. Never have had the need for a factory alternative. If it never felt all that tight as you were screwing it down, I would think that your barrel wasn't fully seated into the action or the block is/was not symmetric. If your barrel was recently out, you also want to make sure you "clock" the extractor groove properly. Either way, better that it broke than having it pull threads out of the receiver.

    I went through the motions making sure everything was lined up properly and seated correctly. I figured it was a little odd though. I guess I will be ordering one though...
     

    ROGER4314

    Been Called "Flash" Since I Was A Kid!
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    Jul 11, 2009
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    East Houston
    Midway USA also carries those blocks for about $12-13. You probably over tightened the block.

    Kidd....the expert barrel and trigger maker specifies 10 inch pounds for that torque specification. That's very low.

    Other sources around the 'Net specify 20-25 inch pounds. I don't have anything that will measure 10 inch pounds of torque. My torque wrenches will do 20 inch pounds so I use that.

    For comparison, a slotted head machine screw may have a 4-5 foot pound spec on it. That's 48-60 inch pounds. It's not a lot of torque.

    Flash
     

    skinman

    Active Member
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    Jul 26, 2010
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    Klein
    Get a torque wrench...the torque on those hex screws will affect accuracy...not to mention stripping out the soft metal of the receiver if you get them too tight...you were lucky this time.
     

    Kyle

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    Get a torque wrench...the torque on those hex screws will affect accuracy...not to mention stripping out the soft metal of the receiver if you get them too tight...you were lucky this time.

    Hell, I was using a little 2 inch hex wrench that barelly fits in my hand... not to mention I was using short portion to turn the screws just a little at a time. I never in a million years would figure I could crack that damn thing with the dinky wrench I was using. But ya, thanfully I didn't strip anything out.
     

    Kyle

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    Midway USA also carries those blocks for about $12-13. You probably over tightened the block.

    Kidd....the expert barrel and trigger maker specifies 10 inch pounds for that torque specification. That's very low.

    Other sources around the 'Net specify 20-25 inch pounds. I don't have anything that will measure 10 inch pounds of torque. My torque wrenches will do 20 inch pounds so I use that.

    For comparison, a slotted head machine screw may have a 4-5 foot pound spec on it. That's 48-60 inch pounds. It's not a lot of torque.

    Flash

    Ill probably just split the difference when I get the new block in then. I appreciate the info!
     
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