Drill and tap a revolver barrel

[hornetguy]

This is a question based mostly in ignorance, which I hope will be corrected...

I am thinking of cutting off a Blackhawk barrel, and will need to put a front sight back on it... I have thought about low temp silver solder, because I've been concerned about drilling and tapping a hole for a front sight that is held down with a screw.

My ignorance comes in with my thinking that if the barrel is .160" thick, then I shouldn't go more than halfway through.... which is a pretty shallow hole to be tapping and counting on to hold a sight on in full .44 mag recoil.

After further ignorant thought, I suppose I could drill most of the way through, as long as I didn't get into the bore. The hole will be filled mostly with the sight hold down screw, so there should be no danger of too much pressure at the hole.

So..... is that correct? I can drill most of the way through the barrel wall without worrying about any pressure "blow-outs" ?

Ignorant enquiring minds want to know.....

 

[V-Tach]

Measure the depth of the factory front sight screw hole and you will be fine using that depth.

 

[hornetguy]

Measure the depth of the factory front sight screw hole and you will be fine using that depth.

The factory front sight is soldered on. This is a blued Bisley Blackhawk.... 7 1/2" barrel.

 

[V-Tach]

I was thinking it was held down by screws...my apologies....I don't have any experience with soldering sights....

Good luck with your project.......

 

[hornetguy]

Thank you for your interest, and your comments.... I appreciate it...

 

[ZX9RCAM]

Maybe you can make a direct swap with someone, so you don't need to cut yours.

 

[jjkukla]

I'm surprised a 44 mag barrel is only .16 thick.
JB Weld that sumbitch on there!!

 

[hornetguy]

Yep.... I've used JB for worse things.... I don't have a problem with doing the low temp silver solder, but I was just thinking of possible options.
The drill and tap sort of worried me because of the perceived depth (or lack of) of the hole.... I've tapped enough holes to know how easy it is to screw that up, especially in a really shallow hole where every thread has to "count"....

 

[Lonesome Dove]

I had my Super blackhawk Bisleys 7 1/2" barrel cut to 5" and the guy soldered the sight back on.

 

[hornetguy]

That's about where I'm going with mine..... I'm thinking 5 1/2" would be about perfect..... I will likely solder mine, but I have to fabricate some sort of clamp to hold it in place until the solder flows. I think I will be happier with the final result.... still thinking, though.

 

[red442joe]

RAMP SOLDERING JIG

RAMP SOLDERING JIG https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/general-gunsmith-tools/adhesives-solder/ramp-soldering-jig/

www.brownells.com

A bit spendy....you sound like you could fab one up. Then it won't have the "C" word on the side.

Joe

 

[baboon]

I can understand wanting what you want. I also understand just because you can, don’t mean you should.

 

[Vaquero]

I reckon the soldering will be cheap compared to the barrel cutting and crowning.
If you trust the gunsmith to cut the barrel, trust him to do the sight

 

[hornetguy]

I can understand wanting what you want. I also understand just because you can, don’t mean you should.

You don't think I should convert my Blackhawk to be the barrel length that I want? I really wouldn't be doing it just because I want to play with it..... I will only do it if the 7 1/2" barrel is longer than I am comfortable with.

If you trust the gunsmith to cut the barrel, trust him to do the sight

I do. I am the "gunsmith".
I'm certainly not a professional, I'm more of what I'd call a talented amateur. I've done some things... sporterized a Swedish mauser back in the late 80's... rebarreled a 1909 Argentine mauser to a .35 Whelen back in about 2000.... I bought a rough chambered Adams and Bennet barrel, threaded it, crowned it, finished chambering/headspacing it, and put it in a synthetic stock. That's the one I drilled and tapped for the scope bases.

I'm confident I can do this either method, otherwise I wouldn't attempt it.

I have just never drilled and tapped into a barrel before, and wanted to find out the safety "protocols" on it.

 

[baboon]

You don't think I should convert my Blackhawk to be the barrel length that I want? I really wouldn't be doing it just because I want to play with it..... I will only do it if the 7 1/2" barrel is longer than I am comfortable with.


I do. I am the "gunsmith".
I'm certainly not a professional, I'm more of what I'd call a talented amateur. I've done some things... sporterized a Swedish mauser back in the late 80's... rebarreled a 1909 Argentine mauser to a .35 Whelen back in about 2000.... I bought a rough chambered Adams and Bennet barrel, threaded it, crowned it, finished chambering/headspacing it, and put it in a synthetic stock. That's the one I drilled and tapped for the scope bases.

I'm confident I can do this either method, otherwise I wouldn't attempt it.

I have just never drilled and tapped into a barrel before, and wanted to find out the safety "protocols" on it.

No I completely understand 2 1/2 more of leather to clear drawing a gun is what it is.

Just because you can din't not meaning you should has more with lose of value in the modification. If the soldernig doesn't go well do you have a back up plan?

 

[TheDan]

The factory front sight is soldered on.

I'd desolder it and solder it back in its new location.

 

[hornetguy]

If the soldernig doesn't go well do you have a back up plan?

Um..... well.... maybe?

 

[hornetguy]

I'd desolder it and solder it back in its new location.

Yes, that would be the simplest option... still on the table.

 

[Gordo]

I've done it.
Make sure that the fit is perfect.
Make sure both surfaces are freshly sanded (not even a finger print on the bare steel).
Apply a good layer of acid flux paste to both surfaces, then clamp in position.
Make sure everything is exactly where it needs to be.

Heat joint slowly, then test if the steel is at the correct temp by touching the joint with the solder without the flame on it.
Again, don't have the flame anywhere near the joint when you touch the solder to it, otherwise you will get a false, premature melting of the solder.
When at the correct temp, the solder will melt instantly, and flow into the joint.
If it stops flowing, pull solder away, and apply more heat.
I always am dipping the solder into the acid paste as I go.

There will be solder outside of the joint, on surrounding areas, don't worry about it, as it is easily scraped/sanded off afterwards.

 

[Wiliamr]

If you solder... Heat stop paste is a must. also wrap the gun in asbestos welding sheet.