Getting ready to reload - Calipers and other questions

[Rathmatik]

Howdy,

I am starting to get gear to try out reloading with 9mm (eventually 223 and others if I like it enough). I inherited a Mitutoyo vernier caliper and was wondering if that would suffice for checking case length and OAL, or if I need to get a set of dial or digital?

I got a Lee hand press to start out, since it's low cost and I like the portability for the moment. I got the RCBS universal priming tool (the latest Lee one seemed a little too cheap and I don't like the idea of on-press priming or buying individual holders). I plan on getting the Lee powder measure kit and the FA trickler. I've got the Lee reloading book (2019 updated too, which is nice). Also getting the Lee case conditioning kit. Lastly, I'll be getting the Lee 4-set 9mm Deluxe Carbide dies and a set of bushings.

Also, any good suggestions for cleaning brass after decapping/sizing? Frankford Arsenal has a decent looking dry tumbler, but is that necessary to start with (as opposed to cleaning via some water-based solution and air drying for example). I'm just curious what is absolutely necessary to be safe/proper.

EDIT: I also purchased the FA DS-750 scale.

Here is a picture of what I have:

Is there anything that I'm forgetting tool-wise?

Thank you!

 

[vmax]

I would think you need a different set of calipers
I can't see how you can measure cases precise enough with those

 

[Rathmatik]

I would think you need a different set of calipers
I can't see how you can measure cases precise enough with those

Alrighty, I thought that might be the case. The bottom part of the side markings has 1/1000th inch, but it might be challenging/slow to get a good measurement I suppose.

 

[rmantoo]

If you're only loading straight wall (pistol) cartridges, you don't even have to tumble or thoroughly clean the cases, at all.

For the first 5-10 or so years I was peripherally involved in competitions (in the 80s and 90s I went to quite a few bowling pin and IPSC competitions) a lot of the competitors who reloaded didn't tumble or detail clean their brass, at all. At most, they would 'wash' it by dumping in a pan and running water over it to get off the big dirt and sand.

I know that goes against a lot of the current trend- and I wet tumble my brass- but in terms of being absolutely necessary, it works fine. The powder residue on the cases actually makes it to where you won't have to lube to resize, at all. In fact, for those of us who do wet tumble, there is definitely such a thing as 'too clean' to easily resize and reload...


It doesn't look like you've missed anything critical otherwise.

 

[rmantoo]

I highly recommend a loaded case gauge like: https://lewilson.com/pistol-max-gage/

If not, I highly recommend removing the barrel from one of your pistols, and doing a 'plonk' test with every loaded round... It's not an absolute, but I found that early in my reloading 'career' (lol) when I checked every single produced round I learned quickly some good and bad habits and what to look out for.

Now, many years later, I check about 1:100 or so, and if it fails, then I back up and check every round I made in that session.

 

[Rathmatik]

@rmantoo I was thinking that straight wall might not absolutely require it, since it doesn't seem like much could build up like a case with a shoulder. This definitely gets me closer to trying out a first load sooner to see whether I'd like to continue, etc. I'll still probably do a basic cleaning to make them easier to inspect.

That case gauge is quite interesting, it seems like an intuitive design. I'll have to look into that, but I was indeed planning on removing the barrel to see how my loads settle (seen multiple videos where that show how that works).

Thank you for the advice!

 

[rmantoo]

No matter how well one may clean their brass (I wet tumble everything, and it comes out looking basically new) once it sits for a while, it ALL tarnishes again, simply from humidity. Sometimes I'll remember to put some liquid wax in the rinse solution, and that will make them stay shiny longer, but most of the time, I don't bother.

The OCD side of my personality likes them all shiny and new looking, but the reality is it's more for vanity and immediate gratification than anything else.

These were tumbled about 9 months ago (I rotate containers around, the one immediately below was about 8 months ago, the ones to the right are more recently)

 

[SQLGeek]

Vernier calipers will work, they will just be a bit slower to read. Yours appear to go to the thousandths so they are precise enough for reloading. The set I inherited from my dad worked fine until I finally broke down and bought a set of digital calipers.

 

[avvidclif]

I would think you need a different set of calipers
I can't see how you can measure cases precise enough with those

That caliper is more accurate than any of the marketed reloading calipers made in china. It is accurate to 1/1000th. II you know how to read it. Most reloading calipers are accurate to the same, MAYBE. ask any good machinist which one he would pick?

I don't see a scale listed, that a requirement.

 

[Charlie]

Shiny brass doesn't shoot any better than dull looking brass does. Buy a cheap vibratory cleaner and it will clean your brass. Inside and out.

 

[avvidclif]

I would suggest buy a reloading package from RCBS or Hornady that has a press, scales, powder measure, etc. Yes it will cost more than what you have listed but buy once and cry once. If you decide you don't like reloading you can get most of your money back on quality gear, what you have listed wouldn't bring 25%, maybe. You'll figure that out when you decide to buy more and realize what you started with ain't worth beans but you gotta replace it. That Mitutoyo caliper will measure more accurately that the fancy digital or dial reloading specials. I use a digital I'll admit but it's made by Browne and Sharpe and cost more than all you have listed. Accurate to 0.0005 I went off on a machinery tangent for a while and acquired some nice tools which were also used in reloading.

 

[Rathmatik]

No matter how well one may clean their brass (I wet tumble everything, and it comes out looking basically new) once it sits for a while, it ALL tarnishes again, simply from humidity. Sometimes I'll remember to put some liquid wax in the rinse solution, and that will make them stay shiny longer, but most of the time, I don't bother.

The OCD side of my personality likes them all shiny and new looking, but the reality is it's more for vanity and immediate gratification than anything else.

These were tumbled about 9 months ago (I rotate containers around, the one immediately below was about 8 months ago, the ones to the right are more recently)

View attachment 184307 View attachment 184308

Nice, I do enjoy the look of some clean brass! That is all good to know, I could see myself getting to that point (I do actually prefer shiner factory brass haha).

 

[Rathmatik]

Vernier calipers will work, they will just be a bit slower to read. Yours appear to go to the thousandths so they are precise enough for reloading. The set I inherited from my dad worked fine until I finally broke down and bought a set of digital calipers.

Thanks for the comment, I was thinking thousandths would be good enough. I think the obvious different is speed, but in the beginning I will much prefer taking my time. Besides, these were my grandfathers, so that's a cool addition. Good to know I might not need a digital set off the bat.

 

[Rathmatik]

That caliper is more accurate than any of the marketed reloading calipers made in china. It is accurate to 1/1000th. II you know how to read it. Most reloading calipers are accurate to the same, MAYBE. ask any good machinist which one he would pick?

I don't see a scale listed, that a requirement.

Yes it does seem accurate enough given that I learn how to use it efficiently. My grandfather was a mechanical engineer and machinist, so I'm sure he used this one for a reason. I also have a micrometer from him, so perhaps that will prove handy too.

Ah yes, I forgot to add that, I'll update my original post. I did buy the FA digital scale (DS-750). Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[Rathmatik]

I would suggest buy a reloading package from RCBS or Hornady that has a press, scales, powder measure, etc. Yes it will cost more than what you have listed but buy once and cry once. If you decide you don't like reloading you can get most of your money back on quality gear, what you have listed wouldn't bring 25%, maybe. You'll figure that out when you decide to buy more and realize what you started with ain't worth beans but you gotta replace it. That Mitutoyo caliper will measure more accurately that the fancy digital or dial reloading specials. I use a digital I'll admit but it's made by Browne and Sharpe and cost more than all you have listed. Accurate to 0.0005 I went off on a machinery tangent for a while and acquired some nice tools which were also used in reloading.

I considered some of the packages, especially liked the RCBS (which seems to have better value than the Hornady one), but I honestly don't want to fork that out right now. Especially if I find out that reloading is not for me. I think what I'm getting will still be useful if I do end up getting new gear later anyway, because it could suit as a nice "travel" set.

That's cool to know that this caliper is so accurate, I was surprised to find out it's Mitutoyo (since it seems every tutorial I've read/watched says those are top-notch). Sounds like that B&S one is pretty fancy, very nice.

 

[Geezer]

Your vernier calipers are more than adequate. Many people don't know how to read vernier calipers. Granted, dial or digital calipers might be a little faster to read, but your vernier will do you a fine job.

 

[Deavis]

Those calipers are great, like all mity equipment, but they are going to be slow. Here is the truth, 9mm is not hard to load. You dont need to measure case length and you will never trim a case. Screw you die down to then plate, add an eighth more to take out slop, and size them. Your calipers are for OAL, crimp, primer seating checks and a cheap digital one from Harbor Freight is good enough for you to start with. Being within a few thou on 9mm is fine, focus on your gross processes at first.

Case gage is your friend, leave your barrel in your gun. If you barrel is properly cut, a case gage will be easier, faster, and most likely more accurate than anything but a barrel cut to the absolute minimum spec. Gage tells you if your die is at least set right (again not hard in 9mm) but mostly use it to detect loading issues. Dont use the FCD in your die set until every round passes your case gage without it. If your ammo won't fit unless you use the FCD, your setup is wrong. FCDs have benefits but they generally hide the mistakes from bad reloaders.

Vibratory cleaner is easy, fast, and effective. Focus in loading, waste time on pretty brass after you have proven loads and processes. 30 minutes in cob or walnut is enough to clean the brass. Use lube, even with carbide, your feel is improved and you will detect more as you work than without it. That is even more important with a progressive, plus why work hard when a spritz makes life easy, unless you like a Popeye right arm.

 

[GasGuzzler]

I would suggest buy a reloading package from RCBS or Hornady that has a press, scales, powder measure, etc.

He's already got all that covered.

 

[Younggun]

I prefer wet tumbling because I got tired of the dust and replacing media.

I’ve loaded dirty pistol brass, but cleaned brass is easier to find even after it’s been fired. Just depends on what your priorities are. Wet tumbling with stainless media and I’ve yet to have any issues resizing unlubed straight wall pistol brass.

I prefer a dial caliper but if those are your preference and you can read them they will work. I personally don’t use digital because I won’t spend enough for a “good” set.


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[avvidclif]

Midsouth Shooter supply is having a closeout sale on RCBS stuff.

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/dept/reloading