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  • Younggun

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    Buy truck, max out credit cards building bad ass motor and getting custom paint/interior, pay off credit cards someday.
    Military Camp
     

    atticus finch

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    Correction to previous post: it is not the Head Gasket, its the valve cover gasket.

    However, the smoke issue is still an unknown but suspected piston rings.

    Tempted to get a crate engine to swap out, and do a rebuild myself on the one currently in the engine.

    The only thing im really concerned about is the smoke. Its considered an antique according to the exhaust emmissions test rules, but is there anything else they could get me on for the smoke?

    I dont mind driving around a smoking vehicle, but dont want to get tickets for it.

    If they're the oem stamped valvecovers, most likely they're leaking due to being overtorqued. Those valvecover bolts don't take much more than 50 inch-pounds of torque to be properly tightened. Any more than that & it warps the valvecover & they start leaking.
    A leaking valve cover likely won't get you cited, unless it is a massive blue cloud. The main hazard is fire. Cork gaskets & ABSOLUTELY use permatex high-tack gasket sealant will do the job.
    If you're going to rebuild, why not try to find a boneyard engine for the interim that you can either run on or rebuild while you decide to rebuild or drive on whats in the truck?
    1983 should be a 305 if it's a V-8, a 400 crank & rods will work in that block & should give you about 331 cubes when done. If you rebuild, an upgrade like that is worth the small additional amount, you'll thank yourself for doing so later.

    If it's a turn-key driver & all you're really dealing with a an overhaul which can be done at your choice of when, then it's worth the money especially being smog exempt. Those truck are going up in value, I've had quite a few offers on my truck, several of them significant amounts. "not for sale at any price" is my answer.
     

    Koinonia

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    If they're the oem stamped valvecovers, most likely they're leaking due to being overtorqued. Those valvecover bolts don't take much more than 50 inch-pounds of torque to be properly tightened. Any more than that & it warps the valvecover & they start leaking.
    A leaking valve cover likely won't get you cited, unless it is a massive blue cloud. The main hazard is fire. Cork gaskets & ABSOLUTELY use permatex high-tack gasket sealant will do the job.
    If you're going to rebuild, why not try to find a boneyard engine for the interim that you can either run on or rebuild while you decide to rebuild or drive on whats in the truck?
    1983 should be a 305 if it's a V-8, a 400 crank & rods will work in that block & should give you about 331 cubes when done. If you rebuild, an upgrade like that is worth the small additional amount, you'll thank yourself for doing so later.

    If it's a turn-key driver & all you're really dealing with a an overhaul which can be done at your choice of when, then it's worth the money especially being smog exempt. Those truck are going up in value, I've had quite a few offers on my truck, several of them significant amounts. "not for sale at any price" is my answer.

    Thanks for the input!

    Its a 350 v8 currently. Itll definitely be a daily driver. At the least every week. Itll likely see ranch work. Any ideas on a good place to find a rebuilt/crate engine, or a factory service manual for the truck?
     

    winchster

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    Thanks for the input!

    Its a 350 v8 currently. Itll definitely be a daily driver. At the least every week. Itll likely see ranch work. Any ideas on a good place to find a rebuilt/crate engine, or a factory service manual for the truck?

    Best bet for an engine would be a new GM crate. Something like this. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...10002&langId=-1&productId=85884&storeId=10001


    FSM copies can be found on the previously mentioned forum.
    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
     

    Das Jared

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    Why not just LS swap it and make it super reliable, more powerful, and more economical? You can still run a carb setup, and junkyard LS motors can be had complete for around a grand.
     

    Vaquero

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    Why not just LS swap it and make it super reliable, more powerful, and more economical? You can still run a carb setup, and junkyard LS motors can be had complete for around a grand.

    I'd avoid a PCM if at all possible. :shades:
     

    atticus finch

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    Thanks for the input!

    Its a 350 v8 currently. Itll definitely be a daily driver. At the least every week. Itll likely see ranch work. Any ideas on a good place to find a rebuilt/crate engine, or a factory service manual for the truck?

    A haynes manual can be gotten at Autozone for a inexpensive price and they're very good manuals.
    That's what I use if/when I need to refer to the book.

    As for a rebuilt or crate motor, that'll depend on what you want it to do, replicate a stone stock engine or something slightly stronger?
    You'll save a fair amount of coin doing an overhaul yourself, assuming you have the mechanical ability, tools, know-how, etc.
    A crate engine would get it done faster but will cost more.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3830/overview/

    There's a 383 shortblock but it doesn't show the rod length.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3832ct1/overview/

    there is the basic 350 redone into a 383. At 310 HP that engine should make close to 400 lb-ft of torque, keep your foot out of it and it'll pay for itself in gas mileage. And you'll definitely know it's under the hood when pulling a heavy load........like farm work......
    Everthing on the 350 in your truck now will bolt onto this engine with no modifications whatsoever.
    Intake, exh, etc.
    Later on, if you got the itch. A set of Vortec heads will bolt into this engine although you'll need the intake manifold to match the heads. A set of Vortec heads will be a boost given the intake velocity those heads generate over a first-generation head. 170 cc intake runner on the Vortec with a much better port floor. This isnt mandatory, only an option. Truthfully that 383 will likely be all you'll need.

    I wouldn't bother with the LS engines as others have suggested, for your purposes a first-generation small-block will do everything you need a truck to do, and save you a LOT of coin.

    Add edit: Is it a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton? 5, 6, or 8 wheel studs per hub?
    Also does it have a single exhaust or dual? If it has dual exhaust get a balance tube installed between the two pipes, that is manna brother.......and makes for an additional 2mpg on a first generation s/b.
     
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    Das Jared

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    I'd avoid a PCM if at all possible. :shades:
    No. Back to cave paintings and making fire you go
    No computer.
    Easy. Just stick a PCM in it. The wiring harness is already there on the motor, there isn't much else left to do to complete the swap. You can still even run the turbo 400 trans that's in it, or a th350 if you want.
    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
     

    Koinonia

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    atticus said:
    Add edit: Is it a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton? 5, 6, or 8 wheel studs per hub?
    Also does it have a single exhaust or dual? If it has dual exhaust get a balance tube installed between the two pipes, that is manna brother.......and makes for an additional 2mpg on a first generation s/b.

    5 stud, single exhaust if you dont count the leaky seal on the engine.
     

    Wiked

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    If you are suspecting the piston rings then set some money aside to bore out the block and for a good set of pistons. I just had this issue on my SBF 289. It will beat getting caught b surprise like I was
     

    atticus finch

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    5 stud, single exhaust if you dont count the leaky seal on the engine.

    5 stud means 1/2 ton, nothing wrong with that. Single pipe will work if it's what you want to use & it's in usable condition.
    IF <--key word here..... you're inclined, you can pull the air injection tubes out of the exhaust manifolds & use a std pipe plug in the holes. It'll pick up a smidge more flow through the manifolds. It's an `83 so it's smog exempt & you don't have to have them in there. Use some copper anti-sieze on the plugs if for some reason you want or need to reinstall the injection tubes.

    If you desire to put in dual exhaust, have a balance tube installed AS CLOSE TO THE OUTLET OF THE EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AS YOU CAN PHYSICALLY GET THE TUBE LOCATED.
    2.5" main tube & a 2" balance tube will work fine & save you some coin on the cost. A balance tube will also allow you to use a two-chamber flowmaster muffler instead of a 3 chamber which will cut down the back-pressure, improve scavenging, and also be quiet enough to not attract attention...... I've run this setup on my truck for 20 years now and it works well.


    If you do your own overhaul, here's two examples of what I was talking about.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-b13405e030/overview/

    A 383 kit for a 350 block.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-b13402e030/overview/

    A std rebuild kit for a 350.

    You'll notice there's less than $200 worth of difference in the price. These are for a lower output/ rpm situation such as you have. Less than $200 or so but it'll make a big difference in the torque, which means gas mileage. They're also a lot less than the cost of a crate engine.

    IF it's an original 1983 block, meaning that engine hasn't been replaced, you should be safe boring as far as 0.030. Not much further than that as those are fairly thin-wall castings in those years, although you shouldn't have to open it up much further than that anyways. If you have to bore it further than that to get the bores round, pitch the block and get another one. 350 blocks are like ants at a picnic, they're everywhere. Neither do you need 4-bolt mains or anything like that, two-bolt will work just fine for your purposes.
    I say IF it's a 1983 block because if memory serves me correctly, only a 305 was available in that year although I'm going off of memory & I could be wrong.


    Can't think of anything else immediately, any questions post them up.
     
    Last edited:

    Koinonia

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    Decided to pull the trigger. Paying him Monday, and he gave me the Owners manual and all repair recipts that were kept, today after work. :D
     
    Last edited:

    Wiked

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    Congrats man, hope you have a great time getting it to what you want it to be
     

    rsayloriii

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    5 stud means 1/2 ton, nothing wrong with that. Single pipe will work if it's what you want to use & it's in usable condition.
    IF <--key word here..... you're inclined, you can pull the air injection tubes out of the exhaust manifolds & use a std pipe plug in the holes. It'll pick up a smidge more flow through the manifolds. It's an `83 so it's smog exempt & you don't have to have them in there. Use some copper anti-sieze on the plugs if for some reason you want or need to reinstall the injection tubes.

    If you desire to put in dual exhaust, have a balance tube installed AS CLOSE TO THE OUTLET OF THE EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AS YOU CAN PHYSICALLY GET THE TUBE LOCATED.
    2.5" main tube & a 2" balance tube will work fine & save you some coin on the cost. A balance tube will also allow you to use a two-chamber flowmaster muffler instead of a 3 chamber which will cut down the back-pressure, improve scavenging, and also be quiet enough to not attract attention...... I've run this setup on my truck for 20 years now and it works well.


    If you do your own overhaul, here's two examples of what I was talking about.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-b13405e030/overview/

    A 383 kit for a 350 block.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-b13402e030/overview/

    A std rebuild kit for a 350.

    You'll notice there's less than $200 worth of difference in the price. These are for a lower output/ rpm situation such as you have. Less than $200 or so but it'll make a big difference in the torque, which means gas mileage. They're also a lot less than the cost of a crate engine.

    IF it's an original 1983 block, meaning that engine hasn't been replaced, you should be safe boring as far as 0.030. Not much further than that as those are fairly thin-wall castings in those years, although you shouldn't have to open it up much further than that anyways. If you have to bore it further than that to get the bores round, pitch the block and get another one. 350 blocks are like ants at a picnic, they're everywhere. Neither do you need 4-bolt mains or anything like that, two-bolt will work just fine for your purposes.
    I say IF it's a 1983 block because if memory serves me correctly, only a 305 was available in that year although I'm going off of memory & I could be wrong.


    Can't think of anything else immediately, any questions post them up.

    Removing or disabling any emissions component is ILLEGAL. Doesn't matter the age. 99% chance you wouldn't get caught, but if you do, there's a hefty fine.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
     
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