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Hey motor oil experts, what about 0W-20 vs. 5W-20?

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  • Coiled

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    It's approaching time for my 1st oil change in a new to me '13 Highlander with the 3.5L V6 and 70K miles. No history of what oils were previously used.


    My limited research indicates the 0W-20 requirement is mainly to increase a mfg's. CAFE rating.
    http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/...s-expensive-oil-to-inexpensive-cars/index.htm


    Of course I've found other info but the bottom line is, if it was your ride, what brand oil & viscosity would you use?
     
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    0w-20 is a colder weather oil. In cold temps it pumps to the bearings faster. 5w-20 is a warmer weather oil. The oil isn't as cold as can be pumped to the bearings in a heavier weight.
     

    TexasBrandon

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    Use what oil the manual recommends. 0W-20 is common for the 3.5L engines Toyota builds. I've been doing my own oil after the "free" oil changes are gone from manufactures and never had an issue. Any 0W-20 oil will do, people will recommend things based on what they think but in reality, if you look at the oil tests, just about all of them are the same in terms of a daily driver oil change. Brand is irrelevant, but if you really want a recommendation, Mobil 1, simply because it's all I have ever used and never had any issues. I also don't keep vehicles long, 50,000 miles max.
     
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    [FONT][1][/FONT][FONT] 0W-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy and starting[/FONT]
    [FONT]in cold weather. If 0W-20 is not available 5W-20 may be[/FONT]
    [FONT]used. However, it must be replaced with 0W-20 at the next[/FONT]
    [FONT]oil change.[/FONT]
     

    texasnurse

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    I recommend Castrol Full Synthetic 0W-20





    Sent with my IPhone with electronics and fuzzy logic...
     

    Coiled

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    [FONT=&amp][1][/FONT][FONT=&amp] 0W-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy and starting[/FONT]
    [FONT=&amp]in cold weather. If 0W-20 is not available 5W-20 may be[/FONT][FONT=&amp] used. However, it must be replaced with 0W-20 at the next[/FONT]
    [FONT=&amp]oil change.[/FONT]
    I read that in the manual and Friday my Wally World was out of the 0W in my preferred Castrol brand. That's what prompted this thread.
     
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    Dawico

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    I would go with the 5W since we are coming into the warm season.

    You are probably fine always using the 5W anyways. I don't think it gets cold enough for long enough here to even worry about it.
     

    texasnurse

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    Engines are designed with certain tolerances in mind, a lower viscosity may be necessary because of sensors used in the manufacturing process


    Sent with my IPhone with electronics and fuzzy logic...
     

    Governors20

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    The only time the winter weight rating would be noticed is in cold freezing temps. In our mild winters it really doesn't matter, and you will never notice a difference.
     

    TheDan

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    Engines are designed with certain tolerances in mind, a lower viscosity may be necessary because of sensors used in the manufacturing process
    Yep. Often times lower viscosity oils are required to flow through tiny oil galleries of hydraulically operated parts. On the other hand, the manufacturer might have specified a low weight simply because they got better gas mileage with it. I sold my 'yota before getting around to figuring out which it was.

    To answer the original question; you're probably fine using 5w-20 here in Texas, but why not just use the 0w? You generally want your cold weight to be as low as possible so that it flows well at startup.
     

    Brains

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    These newer extremely lightweight oils are a direct result of improvements in repeatable machining tolerances coupled with increased demand for engine efficiency. Tighten up the bearing journal clearances, and less oil pressure is required to maintain the fluid bearing. That translates to less load on the engine from the oil pump. Many newer vehicles also have electronically controlled oil pressure relief valves, providing PCM control over operating pressure. In these engines there's not a direct relationship between engine RPM and oil pressure. In steady state, low-load cruise the PCM can dial back the oil pressure and not have to expend as much power to drive the pump. As long as the factory specs the oil viscosity you want to use, you're fine. Definitely don't want to go thicker in a motor with really tight clearances, and vice versa.

    Alternators are increasingly PCM controlled as well, which is why you'll see the voltage pull back as the battery charge comes up. Saves some power, and also extends the life of the battery.
     

    Texasjack

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    Back in the days of the old "straight-weights", it wasn't unusual to run 30 weight in the winter and 40 in the summer. Refiners figured out how to put additives in the oil that would keep the oil viscosity (thickness) within tolerances over a range of temperatures, hence the 10w-30, 0-20, etc. Oil has improved and doesn't degrade (forming carbon) at the rate it once did. Lubrication is much better and so are the cold and hot weather viscosities.

    Try to stick with the oil recommended by the manufacturer.

    I stopped at a promotion being put on by Pennzoil once and got to see the "million mile truck". The owner had a huge paper delivery route (dropping bundles) and religiously changed the oil on time while he owned it at a Pennzoil place (and they tracked the miles). He tried to get Chevy to buy the truck, but they wanted no part of a truck that lasted that long. Pennzoil bought it and gave him a new truck as well. The engineer who inspected the truck told me he took the whole thing apart and checked every part. Everything was within tolerance. The owner did go through a couple of radiators, 3 water pumps, and several generators, so it was only the motor that lasted that long.
     

    texasnurse

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    I stopped at a promotion being put on by Pennzoil once and got to see the "million mile truck". The owner had a huge paper delivery route (dropping bundles) and religiously changed the oil on time while he owned it at a Pennzoil place (and they tracked the miles). He tried to get Chevy to buy the truck, but they wanted no part of a truck that lasted that long. Pennzoil bought it and gave him a new truck as well. The engineer who inspected the truck told me he took the whole thing apart and checked every part. Everything was within tolerance. The owner did go through a couple of radiators, 3 water pumps, and several generators, so it was only the motor that lasted that long.

    This is only a defense to your position if the owner stuck with the 5W30 originally intended for the TBI Chevy; otherwise just use what oil the manufacturer recommends


    Sent with my IPhone with electronics and fuzzy logic...
     

    Coiled

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    To answer the original question; you're probably fine using 5w-20 here in Texas, but why not just use the 0w? You generally want your cold weight to be as low as possible so that it flows well at startup.

    So simple even I can understand it. lol Guess I've been fretting over the wrong number.

    I stopped at WM this afternoon and again no Castrol 0W-20 in 5qt jugs; they wanted $23 for it. Then to O'rielly's where it was on the shelf for $36.

    Thanks for the input guys.
     
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