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  • country_boy

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    Bullseye Shooter

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    You really don't need to crimp rifle rounds. The friction from seating is enough. I load for both my AR and M1 Garand and do not use any kind of factory crimp die.

    You might check with Hornady, but the thread size should be the same as on the RCBS die, so it should work.
     

    country_boy

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    Wow ok. I was told to always crimp any rounds that feed in a semiauto weapon. I think there was even a mile long thread about crimping or not to??
     

    Bullseye Shooter

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    I've checked rounds that have been chambered in my M1 and AR. The bullet will creep a tiny little amount; around .01". Not enough to worry about but something that can be compensated for when you're seating them to length.

    I do crimp pistol rounds however, especially full power .44 Mag loads.
     

    Okierifleman

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    All factory dies are standard 7/8-14 as far as I know. I dont crimp any of my rifle rounds, even running 223 and 308 through semi auto's. I dont think it is necessary in rifle ammo.
     

    Bullseye Shooter

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    Country boy was concerned about the threads on the stem that fits inside the die, not the external thread size. And yes, most factory dies are 7/8 x 14 except some oddballs like the dies for the Lyman 310 tool and Star Machine Works dies.
     

    country_boy

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    Yes thats correct, the threads on the stem. I like the hornady dies better than the rcbs ones. Seems to me thats the way to go for reloading an ar-15.
     

    TexMex247

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    Rifle dies

    I don't know of any rifle dies that also crimp. Bullseye and others will tell you, reloading for an AR requires much more skill and attention to detail than reloading pistol rounds. Personally I use a Lee turret press, it's a good balance of quality and fast production. I also encourage you to finish off your rounds with the "factory" crimp die by lee, both rifle and pistol rounds will benefit from the increased neck tension. It may not be necessary but it gives me some peace of mind.
     

    Bullseye Shooter

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    My .38 Special 1911A1 can be pretty finicky so I spend as much time checking rounds for it as I do for the AR and M1. Of course, they go a little faster since I use a Star press for them and a single stage for the AR and M1. Since I'm loading for competiton, I'm always triple checking things as I go along, but all reloading requires attention to detail and it's okay to be a little anal about it.
     

    wshbrngr

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    All the dies I use for loading are Hornady dies:
    9mak, .30luger, 9mm, .38spl, 44mag, 45ACP, .30Carbine, & .223.
    All of my seating dies have the option to add a crimp or seat with no crimp. (including the .223)
    It is another adjustment on the die. They all do a roll crimp.

    Reading re-loading forums, it seems a lot of people prefer a taper crimp or recommend a factory crimp die.
    I use a Hornady Single Stage, so this would definately add another step for me.

    I have not tried it yet, so I don't really know the advantages taper crimps have over roll crimps (other than what I have read on forums).
    All my rounds seem to function fine in my wepons with a light roll crimp.

    As to the other question, what other die would you want to use the Hornady Carbide Expander Spindle Assembly for RCBS in?
     

    Bullseye Shooter

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    As to the other question, what other die would you want to use the Hornady Carbide Expander Spindle Assembly for RCBS in?

    Hornday makes their carbide expander for .308, .243, and .224 calibers so it could be used in any number of dies for a whole lot of different cartridges.

    [URL]http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=538412[/URL]
    [URL]http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=542502[/URL]
    [URL]http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=547731

    I have not tried it yet, so I don't really know the advantages taper crimps have over roll crimps (other than what I have read on forums). All my rounds seem to function fine in my wepons with a light roll crimp.

    There is the potential with the .45 ACP to roll crimp the round too much, which can possibly cause the cartridge to seat too deeply in the chamber which could cause a headspace problem. This condition is alleviated somewhat since even though the .45 headspaces on the cartridge mouth (the reason for taper crimping), it also headspaces somewhat on the extractor (like the .38 Super). Most guys do not realize the significance of the extractor when chambering any auto pistol round. A slight roll crimp is not a bad thing. I have an early book from the NRA on loading for the .45 and back then, most target shooters were roll crimping and not having any problems.

    Again, revolver rounds are typically roll crimped since you're headspacing on the cartridge rim, not the case mouth. The ony exception for me is when I load for my 1911A1 in .38 Special. I taper crimp those rounds with a very, very tiny roll at the case mouth since that seems the best way to get them to feed correctly. Of course, I'm loading a HBWC bullet since that's the only one that will fit in the magazine.

    [/URL]
     

    wshbrngr

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    Hornday makes their carbide expander for .308, .243, and .224 calibers so it could be used in any number of dies for a whole lot of different cartridges.

    Yes, I understand that, however, I was trying to ask the OP what other (brand) dies he would want to use this product in.
    His question was whether it would only work in an RCBS die.
     

    Bullseye Shooter

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    They should work in Lyman dies. I checked the threads on the set I have here and they are the same as my RCBS die sets.

    I meant to add on the taper crimp note, that if you happen to be loading for a Ruger single action revolver in 9mm or .45 ACP, it is a good idea to taper rather than roll crimp, since you would be headspacing on the case mouth in that case and there is no way to use a moon clip to assist in proper case seating in the cylinder.
     

    chuckfw

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    I really do like the Hornady carbide ball expanders, I use them in several dies. Yes, they also work in Lyman. The lee crimp die is also really a great item to use for any autoloading rifle, and a heck of a good deal @ under $10.00. It puts a "factory crimp" on the neck by squeezing it to tightly hold the bullet so it won't slide back in ome during feeding and you never get a bulge in the neck shoulder with it. I use it for my M1 30-06, AR's .5.56, H&K/Socom16 7.62 and my M1 carbine as well. I don't use one when loading .45, 9mm, 380 or any other auto pistol round since the ones that headspace on the case mouth automatically taper crimp with the RCBS seating die. I only roll crimp revolver heavy recoiling rounds, especially when firing them in light weight revolvers such as the snub nose ones. Just my .02 worth.
     

    Texasjack

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    Most rifle dies will also crimp, but they make special 'factory crimp' dies that work a little better.

    "..Bullet crimping is required whenever there is a possibility of the bullet striking a firearm surface (during the feed/chamber cycle) with sufficient force to push the bullet deeper into the case. This means that ammunition for almost all semi-automatic and pump actions should have the case crimped to the bullet. Also, if there is a danger of the bullet creeping forward out of the case (loads with heavy recoil) while in the magazine, ammunition should be crimped. All ammunition to be used in tubular magazines must be crimped......All ammo to be used in a revolver should be crimped." Lyman Reloading Handbook, 49th ed.

    Taper crimps are for cartridges that headspace on the case mouth - e.g., .45 ACP.
     
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