I'm Switching Motor Oils

[GasGuzzler]

The small PF25 and large PF35 small block Chevy filters have no valve. The PF1218 is sized like the 35 but does have the valve. GM came out with the 1218 in the early '90's as a band-aid to the piston slap noise the 5.7K engines had.

 

[Tnhawk]

I've run nothing but Mobil 1 & a Motorcraft filter on my last three Ford trucks.

I sold the 2007 F150 to my BIL at 140k, it has 175k on it now and going strong. He swears it runs like new.

My current truck is an F250 gasser with about 50k. Since it's first oil change (I perform them all) it's been Motorcraft filter and Mobil 1 - every 5k - easier to remember changing at the 5's!

Since I change at such short intervals, I'm thinking about switching to Castrol GTX High Mileage synthetic blend, and the same Motorcraft filter. The oil is about half the cost of the Mobil 1.

Any experience with the Castrol GTX? Thoughts?

I used Castrol synthetic or Mobil 1 at 5-6000 mile intervals for 30+ years. After a vehicle was old I sometimes ran 50% mixture of synthetic and conventional oil. None had problems with oil consumption and usually ran well until given to a child or hit by a memphis driver. When I began having a problem finding the proper weight in Castrol, I started using Mobil 1.
The company I worked for wouldn't pay for synthetic on their leased F250. The engine was still in good condition when the truck was replaced. After 250,000 miles it was traded for a newer model F150 which uses synthetic oil.

 

[ronr68]

Any ticking or clickity clack at start up on a Ford that's not low on oil is most likely a bad timing chain synchronizer(cam sprocket), stretched timing chain or bad chain tensioner. True through 3 generations of Ford motors 4.6, 5.4 or newer 3.5 V6. On a Chrysler 3.6 that ticks all the time it's probably a failed roller rocker arm.

As far as oil, pick a synthetic/blend and check it, top it and/or change it regularly. I recommend 5k even with synthetic but that's a personal preference. One that's kept my 03' Dakota with a 3.9 going for over 295k.

Good info. I was wondering if you would post. I have become convinced that anymore, it is frequency of changes that counts more than the oil used. That said, I still use Motorcraft filters and Mobil 1 or another higher end synthetic.

 

[Brains]

50K is not high mileage. Not sure about F*** or other brands but high mileage doesn't start on an LS-based engine until at least 150K miles.

I've torn down a lot of LS platform engines, and I'm pretty convinced they'll last forever if you wanted them to. If the oil was changed regularly and a quality filter was used, there is almost zero detectable wear at 100k. One example, my wife bought a 98 Camaro with like 45k on the clock off a used car lot. She did heads, cam, headers, converter and a 100 shot and drove it that way for another ~50k. We pulled the motor at 94k and change to install the new setup (forged LQ9-based low compression, T76 turbocharged). We tore down the motor to sell off the components, and it was still remarkably fresh. No cylinder bore wear, original hone pattern still nice and clear. Rings were nice and square, ring gaps nice and tight, very little carbon buildup behind them. Main and rod bearings had small areas that were polished in the expected locations, but still uniform thickness. Original timing set was fine with very little chain stretch despite the increased load of the Comp Cams XE-R lobes and stiffer valve springs. Everything internally was very clean, no idea what oil the original owner ran but we always ran Mobil 1 and changed fluids on a 'severe duty' schedule between 3k and 5k.

 

[Haystack]

I switched to Schaeffer oil a few years ago. I run it in everything I own, which includes two tractors, a bulldozer, a welding machine, two trucks and an SUV. I even put it in my lawnmower. Everything runs smoother, and gets better fuel economy. What sold me was a Schaeffer rep doing a temperature reading on a Harley Davidson exhaust before and after an oil change. And the temp gauge he was using was not his. It belonged to a welding shop where this took place.

To each his own, and there are many fine oils out there. But my personal results are amazing. And I was skeptical at first.

 

[mroper]

Oils are generally the same it is the additive packages that are mainly different. Of course there is a difference between syn and dino. I would stay away from the blends unless you know the ratio because it could be 1% or 50 %. Some of the cheaper/store brands will be the same oil as the majors but a different package. I think the filter is important I l use Wix or Napa gold(same as wix). That came out second in the engine master tests ToddNJoyce referred to.

 

[deemus]

I've used Castol for decades. My Tahoe has 360K on it and still runs like a scalded dog.

 

[pronstar]

From a spec POV, oils are designed to meet a specific specification as determined by carmakers.

Specs are generally met based on viscosity and additive pack. Some specs call for synthetic or semi-synthetic, some are met with Dino oil.

You can exceed the spec, but you don’t want to use an inferior spec.


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[robertc1024]

Y'all want a rabbit hole to go down? https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

I'm not too particular about the oils I use as long as they're name brand - probably use Mobil 1 more than anything. However, on my new car with a GDI motor, I've done a lot of research and I'm pretty convinced to use the Castrol (Edge?) synthetic oil primarily for carbon deposits on the intake side.

 

[HKSig]

Y'all want a rabbit hole to go down? https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

Been there, done that.

 

[skfullgun]

Me, too!

 

[BeatTheTunaUp]

I've torn down a lot of LS platform engines, and I'm pretty convinced they'll last forever if you wanted them to. If the oil was changed regularly and a quality filter was used, there is almost zero detectable wear at 100k. One example, my wife bought a 98 Camaro with like 45k on the clock off a used car lot. She did heads, cam, headers, converter and a 100 shot and drove it that way for another ~50k. We pulled the motor at 94k and change to install the new setup (forged LQ9-based low compression, T76 turbocharged). We tore down the motor to sell off the components, and it was still remarkably fresh. No cylinder bore wear, original hone pattern still nice and clear. Rings were nice and square, ring gaps nice and tight, very little carbon buildup behind them. Main and rod bearings had small areas that were polished in the expected locations, but still uniform thickness. Original timing set was fine with very little chain stretch despite the increased load of the Comp Cams XE-R lobes and stiffer valve springs. Everything internally was very clean, no idea what oil the original owner ran but we always ran Mobil 1 and changed fluids on a 'severe duty' schedule between 3k and 5k.

Agreed. As a testament to LS durability, this turd came in with over 300k miles. Hadn't had an oil change in who knows how long. No one could remember. We changed it twice to help flush it, but that SOB purred like kitten and drove away.

 

[TheDan]

every 5k

With a 5k interval any modern synthetic will be fine.

 

[TheDan]

You know mobil 1 of today is natural gas based and not an Ester oil base.

Redline is the only one I know of still making all ester base oil. Even Amsoil uses blends now.

 

[TheDan]

I use Rotella T6 in everything

Brotella has great performance to price! If I'm not using Amsoil or Redline, I'm using it.

 

[Axxe55]

I've torn down a lot of LS platform engines, and I'm pretty convinced they'll last forever if you wanted them to. If the oil was changed regularly and a quality filter was used, there is almost zero detectable wear at 100k. One example, my wife bought a 98 Camaro with like 45k on the clock off a used car lot. She did heads, cam, headers, converter and a 100 shot and drove it that way for another ~50k. We pulled the motor at 94k and change to install the new setup (forged LQ9-based low compression, T76 turbocharged). We tore down the motor to sell off the components, and it was still remarkably fresh. No cylinder bore wear, original hone pattern still nice and clear. Rings were nice and square, ring gaps nice and tight, very little carbon buildup behind them. Main and rod bearings had small areas that were polished in the expected locations, but still uniform thickness. Original timing set was fine with very little chain stretch despite the increased load of the Comp Cams XE-R lobes and stiffer valve springs. Everything internally was very clean, no idea what oil the original owner ran but we always ran Mobil 1 and changed fluids on a 'severe duty' schedule between 3k and 5k.

Agreed. As a testament to LS durability, this turd came in with over 300k miles. Hadn't had an oil change in who knows how long. No one could remember. We changed it twice to help flush it, but that SOB purred like kitten and drove away.

The LS platform of engines has almost become as popular as the older Chevrolet small blocks were some years ago. Not only are they damn near bullet-proof and dead-on reliable, you can make stupid levels of horsepower with them very easily and still run like a stocker and get decent fuel mileage from them.

I can understand why lots of hot rodders are retrofitting LS crate engines into older cars. Add in a performance overdrive transmission, a few performance parts and you can make horsepower that guys with the older small and big blocks only dreamed of, and can still drive it every day, and not have to treat it like a temperamental drama queen!

 

[pronstar]

The latest Gen V LT V8’s are gaining in popularity.

The stock fuel system can support up to about 500hp, but bone-stock the motor itself is super flexible and puts out 6.0 LS levels of power.

The last part is significant, because it’s getting very hard to find 6.0 motors and sellers want a premium.

The 5.3’s are a dime a dozen.


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[TexasFire316]

I use Vavoline in my two ford gassers.
So far so good.

 

[GasGuzzler]

The latest Gen V LT V8’s are gaining in popularity.

The stock fuel system can support up to about 500hp, but bone-stock the motor itself is super flexible and puts out 6.0 LS levels of power.

The last part is significant, because it’s getting very hard to find 6.0 motors and sellers want a premium.

The 5.3’s are a dime a dozen.


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Our 2003 Yukon Denali is nearing its life of service (for us) and I am considering swapping the 6.0L for a 5.3L for the core...

 

[BeatTheTunaUp]

Our 2003 Yukon Denali is nearing its life of service (for us) and I am considering swapping the 6.0L for a 5.3L for the core...

Why not rebuild the 6.0 you have?