Target Sports

Leveling kits and tires.

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  • tXfactor

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    As long as you're not hauling a pallet of bricks in the bed with tires at 80psi, that is a moot issue. Wheel pressure ratings are typically based on max payload @ max tire psi. You would be far exceeding the max payload of the truck before you come close to exceeding the max pressure rating of a factory wheel.
    Military Camp
     

    tXfactor

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    I have a 2" level on my '12 Ford f150 FX4. I love it, allows me to put 33's or 35's on the truck. I don't tow and the heaviest thing I'll haul is a motorcycle. The leveling system didn't change the ride nor mileage one bit. I have heard stories of leveling kits wearing out ball joints and worst case scenario wearing out bushings in the steering rack. I take those chances for the mean time before I get an actual suspension system.


    35s do not fit on a '12 F150 with only a 2in level kit.
     

    tXfactor

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    Check on having the alignment done afterwards.
    I plan on getting a programmer to adjust my speedo and shifts to compensate for the new end gear ratio.

    if you're only going to 33s then i doubt you will need to change anything. the Chevy dealer will do it for free if you don't want to spend the $$$ on a programmer.

    edit: Nvm, just remembered you had the Dodge, not the '12 Chevy. regardless, the Dodge dealer will probably do it for free as well. at most, they may charge 1/2hr of labor since you're probably out of warranty by now.
     

    TreyG-20

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    if you're only going to 33s then i doubt you will need to change anything. the Chevy dealer will do it for free if you don't want to spend the $$$ on a programmer.

    edit: Nvm, just remembered you had the Dodge, not the '12 Chevy. regardless, the Dodge dealer will probably do it for free as well. at most, they may charge 1/2hr of labor since you're probably out of warranty by now.
    Stock tire size is 32.9 inches. So if I stay with 33 I won't have to change anything. I'm going to a 34 though so it will be a bit off.
     

    tXfactor

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    Even at 34in you won't notice it. Definitely check it with the GPS on your smartphone before you invest in a programmer. Oversize tires and speedometers are nothing new to me, and in my experience going from a 33 to a 34 will not affect your speedometer to the extent where it needs to be "corrected."

    Good luck and be sure to post up some "after" pics when it's all said and done. :p
     

    tXfactor

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    Keep in mind, a knobby truck tire will lose more than 1in of overall diameter as it wears, so the speedometer can't always be accurate. ;)
     

    Shorts

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    I need some new tires for my 2008 dodge ram 1500 4x4. It's a big horn edition with a Hemi. I want to go from a 275-60r20 to a 275-65r20. It's an inch taller and will probably mess up my odometer. They are heavier as well being that their 10 plys. Anybody running these on a half ton truck? What psi should I run them at? I have 50 in my head. Mostly for highway use with the occasional trips to the ranch.

    You don't need Load E tires for a 1500. You are wasting money (more expensive) and costing you rolling resistance ( -mpg/ +braking distance). Stick with C or D load. I have Load E on my 7200lb 2500 Ram. Unless you're running loaded or need the wall stiffness, stay away from Load Es.


    I am also about to pull the trigger on a leveling kit from hell bent steel, so I won't have the forwArd rake. Anybody have experience with having leveling kits on their trucks? Thoughts?

    I've got coil spring spacers on mine. It was on the truck when I bought it. Personally if I was choosing a leveling kit with a stock truck I would prefer a coil spring than a spacer. Spacer adds no ride comfort or consideration. A spacer is installed the same way newcoils would be in as far as the wok involved goes. If you are doing a spacer you might as well be doing coils. If all you are looking at is the cost of spacers vs cost of coils, well you get what you pay for.

    My opinion, stay away from spacers and buy coil springs. And while you're in that front end, you want to upgrade shocks too.

    As for the truck's rake when leveled and unloaded, it's fine. If you're loaded you will sit nose high unless you install rear bags to keep you level. ETA: Oh, be careful if you try measuring the wheel well openings on all four corners trying to determine what is "level". I recall hearing the wheel well openings may not be the same size. So it creates an illusion that the truck is not level. I'd put an angle finder on the bottom of the rocker panels and see how far you're out. Use math to figure out just how much the front needs to come up.
     
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    Shorts

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    if you're only going to 33s then i doubt you will need to change anything. the Chevy dealer will do it for free if you don't want to spend the $$$ on a programmer.

    edit: Nvm, just remembered you had the Dodge, not the '12 Chevy. regardless, the Dodge dealer will probably do it for free as well. at most, they may charge 1/2hr of labor since you're probably out of warranty by now.

    It depends on the dealer. Some charge. I had my dealer flash mine going from 265/70s to 285/70s. I got charged like $30 or so. I can't remember. Also be aware that the dealer can only calibrate a certain percentage and increments (usually what'll fit under the stock suspension/vehicle). Least that's what my dealer told me. If you need more you'll need to go to a tuner that allows full control of the tire settings. In a newer Dodge, that is under ABS settings control.
     

    TreyG-20

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    I guess I should ad that the Michelin tires that are e load range are coming of a new f-250 my friend bought. He went with 35's and these have about 800 miles on them. They run for about $350 a piece new. He's selling me the set of 4 for $200. Hard for me to pass on that deal. If they weren't such a good deal I would be in the market for factory size tires.
     

    M. Sage

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    I despise leveling kits. But then again my trucks have always been for work. Hook up a trailer or load the bed up and your doing a wheelie and your lights shine right into everyone's eyes.

    I prefer airbags to any other suspension work. They are adjustable and never sag or wear out like steel springs. Put them on the front and rear and you can make your truck sit however you want and smooth out the ride at the same time no matter how it is loaded.

    Air bags most definitely wear out, I've replaced more than enough of them to know that. Otherwise, I agree with what you said.
     
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