Anybody put one in a F150? 2008 version. Thinking about it. Suggestions.
Limited slip
- Thread starter robertc1024
- Start date
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No traction control. It's a pretty basic truck, and I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I find myself getting stuck on wet grass, so I'm just asking.
It's not too difficult, especially if you're reinstalling the same ring gear on a new carrier (leaving the pinion alone). You'll need to get new carrier bearings and have them pressed on to your new carrier first. Then on install you'll need to verify the bearing preload, verify the gear mesh pattern / backlash, and shim the bearings accordingly. If you don't have a magnetic base dial indicator, pick one up from Harbor Freight, it'll make measuring the backlash easy. Then either get some gear marking paste or just use white lithium grease to paint a few teeth on the ring gear to check the pattern. Lots of videos on the process. I've done a bunch in the garage at home over the years, all with great success. Really it's patience that determines the outcome.
How long do you plan on keeping the truck?
Limited slip uses clutches that will wear out. Your truck may have had one originally.
If you plan on keeping it for a long time go with a mechanical locker. They last much longer (or forever). No sense going with an air or electronic locker that I can see.
Really no clue on the cost or install difference though.
Limited slip uses clutches that will wear out. Your truck may have had one originally.
If you plan on keeping it for a long time go with a mechanical locker. They last much longer (or forever). No sense going with an air or electronic locker that I can see.
Really no clue on the cost or install difference though.
Changing the pumpkin out takes a few tools you might not have. Setting up gears can be a pain and expensive if not done right.
Do what I did in my younger years. Buy the entire rear end. Ford has a tag on the rear end that has the ratio and on the right side of the number will be a "L".
The "L" is Ford's destination for Limited slip. Replace the entire rear axle. It can be done in a couple of hours. You don't have to mess with gear lube or have to deal with correctly installing a limited slip. Ford did it for you.
Do what I did in my younger years. Buy the entire rear end. Ford has a tag on the rear end that has the ratio and on the right side of the number will be a "L".
The "L" is Ford's destination for Limited slip. Replace the entire rear axle. It can be done in a couple of hours. You don't have to mess with gear lube or have to deal with correctly installing a limited slip. Ford did it for you.
Ole Cowboy
TGT Addict
You prob have a Ford 8.8 axle and it should have a 31 spline axle shafts. You can find out of looking on the tag of the rear diff is still there, its usually held one with 2 bolts on the cover.
If this is the case you can pick up a Ford OEM LS for about $250, then you will need a full bearing kit as they don't come with it.
Its a good system if your truck is a everyday driver and you are not bashing it on off road trails etc. Even a clutch system will last a lot of years and miles.
The big challenge is gear setup and if you are not comfy with that you should have no problem with finding someone who will do it for anywhere from $50 to $150 if you have the axel out and put together and just needing the gears set up.
I am doing a setup here for side clearance and gear contact of an axle I have set up. You will need a few basic tools, good set of feeler gages, torque wrench to torque the various components and a big one to torque down the pinion bearing. All the data points are on line as you axle is a very common setup.
The other option for the DIY is a swap with a 8.8 that has the LS OEM, no shortage of them out there and you have a trade in. Figure about $350 - $650 (local vs shipped, used setup)....I am getting ready to do one on a 2007 F150.
If this is the case you can pick up a Ford OEM LS for about $250, then you will need a full bearing kit as they don't come with it.
Its a good system if your truck is a everyday driver and you are not bashing it on off road trails etc. Even a clutch system will last a lot of years and miles.
The big challenge is gear setup and if you are not comfy with that you should have no problem with finding someone who will do it for anywhere from $50 to $150 if you have the axel out and put together and just needing the gears set up.
I am doing a setup here for side clearance and gear contact of an axle I have set up. You will need a few basic tools, good set of feeler gages, torque wrench to torque the various components and a big one to torque down the pinion bearing. All the data points are on line as you axle is a very common setup.
The other option for the DIY is a swap with a 8.8 that has the LS OEM, no shortage of them out there and you have a trade in. Figure about $350 - $650 (local vs shipped, used setup)....I am getting ready to do one on a 2007 F150.
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Good stuff gents. It's an open 8.8 - I checked the tag. Daily driver.
If he's just changing carriers and not ring and pinion he should not have to remove the pinion at all. Just install the old ring gear on the new carrier, set backlash, carrier bearing preload and confirm proper gear mesh. Even easier, no need to mess with the pinion most likely unless the seal is leaking.
You make it sound easy. For the headache of finding out the gears don't mesh because a crush collar got crushed too far or not far enough. Having to pull it apart. The drive shaft and all that mess has to be done all over. Nasty smelling gear lube...
Buy the entire rear end.
Oh no argument there. Swapping the entire axle is easiest. Just saying if one is determined to replace the carrier only and if your pinion bearing preload is in spec and the seal is not leaking, there's no need to even mess with the pinion at all.
Ole Cowboy
TGT Addict
My exp with OLD high mileage R&P's is that if you do anything that alters or caused you to need to reset any part of it, it's never gonna be be right as you will see premature wear. The key reason is you will not duplicate the R&P wear pattern, put money on it it gonna whine sooner or later most likely sooner.
In fact If the R&P has over 500 mi I would never reuse, just toss in the pile for ranch/farm trucks and beaters.
Is that like a spare rear end in case one breaks?
Dude, it IS pretty easy. There's zero reason the pinion depth will change, or the crush sleeve that is currently in operation will change unless you screw with it. Which you wouldn't, if you're only swapping the carrier. Gear mesh will stay the same, provided the ring gear goes back into the same position it was in. Getting the pinion/ring gear relationship right is a significantly simpler job when you... wait for it .. don't screw with the pinion. You're only concerned with shimming the new carrier into the same position as the one it replaces. Heck, even if you never ran a pattern, if you nail the backlash to be exactly what it was before pulling the old carrier out, you're going to be right on target. Gears will be just as quiet as before.
I literally can't tell you how many times I've done this. Like rebuilding Ford Trac-Loc in 8.8's, sometimes I wouldn't use the original carrier. Or replacing the original Auburn limited slip with a Zexel-Torsen in the GM 10 bolt was actually a somewhat common "upgrade" for a while.
