Liner Lock Knives

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  • 40Arpent

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    I am not a fan of liner locks for two reasons. One, I don't care to have my thumb in the path of a closing blade. Two, I don't trust that I will not inadvertently release the lock if I am using the knife in some awkward position while cutting.

    For fans of liner lock knives, what benefits am I missing by staying away from these knives?
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    40Arpent

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    you only hold your thumb there to start the release of the blade, you dont hold it the entire time, once the lock breaks past the edge of the blade you move your thumb out of the way...

    No shit, Sherlock, but if I have been drinking and my reaction time is slow... Just kiddin' with ya...but I can't believe you felt compelled to tell me that I gotta move my thumb. I may be a Cajun, but come on now!

    a liner lock, that is about the safest of the three

    What makes it safer?
     

    Big country

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    Another thing that a spine lock knife is bad about is the tendency to just flat out break, for no good damn reason they might just fall apart. I have not had this problem with just cheapo crap either.
     

    40Arpent

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    Thanks guys, y'all are helping to enlighten me. The only locking knives I am using currently are Benchmade, with the Axis (button) lock. I only have one liner knife, a relatively inexpensive one that only takes a slight bit of pressure on the back of the blade to defeat the liner lock. Needless to say, that one does not see too much use.
     

    45tex

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    Liner locks for the most part are crapola. But they are cheap. I've always carried a pocket knife. Its the perfect tool for everything (almost). Therin I break off the tips and bend the Aluminium quite often. Cheap liner locks don't upset you when you have to toss it and get another.
    My current knife is one of the freebie give aways from Cabela's. I've reground the tip a couple of times, but its hanging in there.
    I don't carry a knife for personal security, its just another tool to be used as needed.
     

    Big country

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    I don't think they are all crap, but the cheap ones definitely have their faults. I do carry a knife for personal security at work and at home. If I'm on an armed site and there is a grab made for my gun, or if my access has been restricted to my gun I may need another option. And fast! If I'm working an unarmed post and I get attacked with deadly force or potentially deadly force, I my need it to save my life. There are all kinds of options out there, I think everyone will stick to what they like and be happy with it. I'm still not thrilled about this axis lock, but I know nothing about it and have little experience with them other than looking and handling a few.
     

    CarbonCycles

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    Chris Reeves has some of the strongest liner locks I've used; instead of using a separate thin piece of metal to lock out the blade, Chris uses the entire frame for the lock. In my experience, I've found it easier to disengage the liner lock than your standard spine-lock as you can curl your fingers and accidentally disengage the lock. I've done this several times on my Benchmade and almost impossible on the Spyderco. As for the Chris Reeves, I'm still experimenting with it, but so far, I've been very impressed with the build.
     

    cowboy45

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    1st breaking the tip is stupid. It is no a screwdriviver or pry bar. 2nd they have been making folding knives for a long time without liner,spine, or bolster locks. The best way to keep from being cut by a folder is to keep the booger finger out of the way, and use it properly. I have been cut more times than most of you put together, I made a living as a butcher for about 8 yrs.A lockblade knife is a great thing, but no matter how it works, you still have to watch the sharp part. Remember the cub scout thing about cutting away from you. And if you are cutting in an awkward situation, you might have the wrong tool.:patriot:
     

    M. Sage

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    I've used a liner-lock knife for years, almost always a Kershaw.

    I'll agree that a poorly-made liner lock is just asking for trouble, but a well-made lock is solid. I've put my Kershaws through a lot of abuse over the years. I've deflated or destroyed junk tires by punching the knife through the sidewall, and never had the lock even hint that it was going to fail. About the only thing I break on Kershaws is the tip of the blade. Otherwise I wear the assisted open spring out, not that it affects speed at all.

    I was nervous at first about closing the blade toward my thumb, but the way I close my knives, the blade is pointed at my thumb nail. Much harder to put a knife through that by mistake. Also the way my Kershaw is set up, my thumb is close enough to the hinge that the actual edge won't hit my thumb when closing anyway.

    I honestly can't imagine how you'd have to hold the knife to get your fingertips curled into the liner lock...

    No locking knife is as strong as a good fixed-blade, though.

    Chris Reeves has some of the strongest liner locks I've used; instead of using a separate thin piece of metal to lock out the blade, Chris uses the entire frame for the lock.

    That is how the liner lock on my Kershaw is made. Most liner locks I'm familiar with are built that way.
     

    CarbonCycles

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    IMO, the liner-lock can become disengaged in three main scenarios.

    1) When wearing gloves, the extra material on the fingers can get bunched disengaging the lock.
    2) When the knife is in your hand, and it begins to slowly rotate due to the force when you thrust into an object.
    3) When you begin to grab the knife as if you are about to thrust, and you haven't set your grip. Your fingers begin to slowly "ride" the lock.

    Most of the liner-locks I've used (including my Kershaw assisted and Benchmade DejaVoo) have a thin, metallic strip of metal that goes from the inside of the handle and rides the blade. I've found this thin piece of metal to be adequate at best. As for the Chris Reeves, the entire left side of the titanium handle rides the blade, and this is a significant chunk of metal.

    I've used a liner-lock knife for years, almost always a Kershaw.

    I'll agree that a poorly-made liner lock is just asking for trouble, but a well-made lock is solid. I've put my Kershaws through a lot of abuse over the years. I've deflated or destroyed junk tires by punching the knife through the sidewall, and never had the lock even hint that it was going to fail. About the only thing I break on Kershaws is the tip of the blade. Otherwise I wear the assisted open spring out, not that it affects speed at all.

    I was nervous at first about closing the blade toward my thumb, but the way I close my knives, the blade is pointed at my thumb nail. Much harder to put a knife through that by mistake. Also the way my Kershaw is set up, my thumb is close enough to the hinge that the actual edge won't hit my thumb when closing anyway.

    I honestly can't imagine how you'd have to hold the knife to get your fingertips curled into the liner lock...

    No locking knife is as strong as a good fixed-blade, though.



    That is how the liner lock on my Kershaw is made. Most liner locks I'm familiar with are built that way.
     

    M. Sage

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    So the Reeves has a thicker frame. I wouldn't call Kershaw's liner "thin". I would call the liner on the CRKT M16 EDC I have (had?) somewhere around here downright tiny, though. Good thing they put the secondary lock on it to keep it from folding...

    I've had a Kershaw clipped in my front pocket pretty much continually for more than 10 years now. I've never run into any of the three scenarios you talk about.

    1 is the most likely scenario, I'll admit, though I've used mine with gloves a ton of times and never had any hint of this happening.

    2: Yes, it can do this, but the shape of the handle on mine is such that I cannot get a grip on the lock with the part of my finger that occupies that spot while I'm holding the knife. This thing is three or four years old and sees daily use, and the lock is still stiff enough that I cannot disengage it without trying. I have to push down and over with the tip of a digit to unlock the knife.

    3: Handle shape prevents my grip from disturbing the lock. I'm sitting here literally trying to, and it's not happening. My grip strenght is a bit higher than average, too.

    I can pinch down with my index finger in a gripping position on the knife almost as hard as I can and twist the knife in my grip with my other hand. It draws my finger across the inside edge of the handle hard enough that it stings (which is saying something; my hands are tough), but I'm getting zero movement on the lock.
     

    CarbonCycles

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    Sage, are you a lefty or a righty? Btw, I find that the inside fleshy part of my right index finger will start to disengage the lock if this helps you further visualize it.
     

    M. Sage

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    Right-handed. My fingers aren't too fleshy; they're a bit more "blocky". My hands are pretty typical "mechanic's hands".

    Maybe it's the model I'm carrying. I've got a Blackout, which has somewhat fatter grips than some of the slab-sided models.
     

    Big country

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    I just bought a Kershaw GTFOM knife for carry as a multi purpose blade. It is a liner lock and sturdy as a rock. I think that the lock back (spine lock) or liner lock or any other lock is all just opinion. I like them both, I think that they all have there own pros and cons.
     
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