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M1 Garand Safe Ammo/ Adj Gas Plugs?

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  • TH4DDEUS

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    Hey all so I am new owner of a Garand and have been hard pressed to find what people consider suitable 30-06 the AM Eagle brand is the only thing sold locally and its $$$$. I am told that the hunting loads are generally overpressure to run in the old rifle and that you could get bent oprod/derailed oprod issues among other things. So I am wondering if anyone else has experience shooting something other than M2 ball and above 150gr through theirs and/or if its worth the hassle to try and get an adjustable plug so I can vent the excess pressure off and run other ammo.
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    zackmars

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    Get new springs, orion7 is best

    Properly lubricate with grease, TW25b, slip 2000 EWG, Lubriplate, etc.

    Stick with ammo at or under 180gr. You don't need ported or adjustable gas plugs unless you plan on shooting tons of 180gr or heavier ammo, or really want to tune your rifle to handloads.
    The Garand was designed around M1 ball which had a 173gr bullet at 2,600-2,700 fps. This loading was dropped over the M2 ball due to the cost and difficulty in producing the M1 projectile, and the fact the M1 ball exceeded the safety envelope of many NG training ranges.

    The M2 ball is simply a modernized version of the original M1906 ball. Contrary to popular opinion, it is not lower pressure, or "weaker" than "real" .30-06.

    All this confusion stems from the fact people confuse CuP and PSI, and are ignorant of the M1's history.
     

    TH4DDEUS

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    Get new springs, orion7 is best

    Properly lubricate with grease, TW25b, slip 2000 EWG, Lubriplate, etc.

    Stick with ammo at or under 180gr. You don't need ported or adjustable gas plugs unless you plan on shooting tons of 180gr or heavier ammo, or really want to tune your rifle to handloads.
    The Garand was designed around M1 ball which had a 173gr bullet at 2,600-2,700 fps. This loading was dropped over the M2 ball due to the cost and difficulty in producing the M1 projectile, and the fact the M1 ball exceeded the safety envelope of many NG training ranges.

    The M2 ball is simply a modernized version of the original M1906 ball. Contrary to popular opinion, it is not lower pressure, or "weaker" than "real" .30-06.

    All this confusion stems from the fact people confuse CuP and PSI, and are ignorant of the M1's history.
    That is all fantastic advice! Would you say that consistently shooting 170gr would also inevitably lead to failures? I am not really one to shoot thousands of rounds so that part is a non issue but I will definitely be up in the hundreds. Historical value of original parts is of little concern to me but having a smooth operating rifle is definitely one.
     

    zackmars

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    That is all fantastic advice! Would you say that consistently shooting 170gr would also inevitably lead to failures? I am not really one to shoot thousands of rounds so that part is a non issue but I will definitely be up in the hundreds. Historical value of original parts is of little concern to me but having a smooth operating rifle is definitely one.
    Assuming it is factory ammo, brass cased, from a quality MFG, it should be fine.

    This is also assuming the gun has new springs, properly lubed, and critical parts like the bolt, and op rod are in good condition.

    The garand is crazy strong, but we're still talking about a 70+ year old rifle
     

    zackmars

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    Also, there will be a difference in rim shapes in some .30-06 loadings, these may not play well with new EnBloc clips. I suggest crawling ebay for original USGI ones. There's usually a few people selling bags of them for pretty reasonable prices.
     

    TH4DDEUS

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    Assuming it is factory ammo, brass cased, from a quality MFG, it should be fine.

    This is also assuming the gun has new springs, properly lubed, and critical parts like the bolt, and op rod are in good condition.

    The garand is crazy strong, but we're still talking about a 70+ year old rifle
    The seller told me he re-did the springs and I can feel the tightness in the action but I have not field stripped it far enough to check for spring age or any rusting etc. The internals are recently greased by me and at least from a basic visual inspection by my untrained eye all looks good with the action. However it does have some odd tightness if I try to pull the bolt back manually sometimes really locking place so that is one concern that I have with it right now because I am not sure where the friction is coming from. The area of the bolt face that rotates along an internal spline on the right front side of the receiver has been greased and its smoother, but not what I have seen from other people's manual cycling which seems smooth as butter. Could be spring tightness again but I am new to the platform so its hard to say.
     

    zackmars

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    You need to field strip the M1 to properly lube it. There's the obvious spots like the locking lugs, bolt raceway, but you'll want to lube the follower rod, the bottom of the barrel/top of the op rod. The garand is a thirsty beast. The more grease you use, the happer she'll be.

    Also be aware this is not a gun you baby. Treat it like you're mad at it.
     

    TH4DDEUS

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    I appreciate the help, will definitely spend some time with it this weekend and report back. Hopefully that sorts out the strange bolt locking issue I am seeing occasionally. I am sure it will cycle fine and I am probably just being weak, but seems odd to me. Should have some range time in two weeks so I will get a better idea of how well it does with the 150gr. I may step it up a bit later depending on the recoil but I do have a muzzle brake so I suspect it to be light.
     

    BeatTheTunaUp

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    It's supposed to lock if you pull it all the way back. Then a loaded clip, or press the follower all the way down in the magwell until it clicks and it will release the bolt. If the bolt it resting on the follower when open, it's not fully cocked back.
     

    msharley

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    Hey all so I am new owner of a Garand and have been hard pressed to find what people consider suitable 30-06 the AM Eagle brand is the only thing sold locally and its $$$$. I am told that the hunting loads are generally overpressure to run in the old rifle and that you could get bent oprod/derailed oprod issues among other things. So I am wondering if anyone else has experience shooting something other than M2 ball and above 150gr through theirs and/or if its worth the hassle to try and get an adjustable plug so I can vent the excess pressure off and run other ammo.
    The Schuester Gas Plug is great.

    You can dial your ammo to be exceptionally accurate...

    My rifle shoots 1-1/2"............at 250yds..

    This was single load, from the bench (too wet that day, to go prone with sling)

    Spotter told me to quit shooting....before I messed the target up! :green:
     

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    msharley

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    The seller told me he re-did the springs and I can feel the tightness in the action but I have not field stripped it far enough to check for spring age or any rusting etc. The internals are recently greased by me and at least from a basic visual inspection by my untrained eye all looks good with the action. However it does have some odd tightness if I try to pull the bolt back manually sometimes really locking place so that is one concern that I have with it right now because I am not sure where the friction is coming from. The area of the bolt face that rotates along an internal spline on the right front side of the receiver has been greased and its smoother, but not what I have seen from other people's manual cycling which seems smooth as butter. Could be spring tightness again but I am new to the platform so its hard to say.
    Pay mind...to M 1 thumb....
     

    zackmars

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    I appreciate the help, will definitely spend some time with it this weekend and report back. Hopefully that sorts out the strange bolt locking issue I am seeing occasionally. I am sure it will cycle fine and I am probably just being weak, but seems odd to me. Should have some range time in two weeks so I will get a better idea of how well it does with the 150gr. I may step it up a bit later depending on the recoil but I do have a muzzle brake so I suspect it to be light.
    The Garand has anti pre engagement cuts in the op rod, so when you pull back the charging handle, the bolt doesn't immediately start caming open.


    The garand is very hard to charge because the recoil spring is not only compressing, but also it's putting a lot of that pressure in the follower, which is dragging on the bolt.

    Place you hand flat along the side on the rifle, with your pinky contacting the charging handle, swiftly swipe downwards towards the butt till the action locks open. Make sure when looking into the action, it looks like the top picture, not the bottom

    howto.jpg


    Insert a new clip by keeping the blade of your hand on the charging handle, and shoving the clip in with your thumb, until it makes an audible "click". Once you remove your hand, the action will close automatically.
     

    TH4DDEUS

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    Indeed I have found that compressing the follower helps a ton. However the action lockup is happening within the fist 1/8th" of bolt travel so I am not sure the follower is squarely to blame because its incredibly sticky at this point and frustratingly it does not seem repeatable in any common sense way. Sometimes it does it and other times its happy as a clam. But I am sure a proper internal lubing will definitely help it along.
     

    zackmars

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    Indeed I have found that compressing the follower helps a ton. However the action lockup is happening within the fist 1/8th" of bolt travel so I am not sure the follower is squarely to blame because its incredibly sticky at this point and frustratingly it does not seem repeatable in any common sense way. Sometimes it does it and other times its happy as a clam. But I am sure a proper internal lubing will definitely help it along.

    It's going to be very hard to diagnose that without seeing the rifle in person, but i would make sure to strip the gun and inspect the bolt and op rod for abnormal wear or burrs. I'd also check the top of the hammer as well, but I don't think the bolt is contacting it in the first 1/8 inch of travel
     

    TH4DDEUS

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    It's going to be very hard to diagnose that without seeing the rifle in person, but i would make sure to strip the gun and inspect the bolt and op rod for abnormal wear or burrs. I'd also check the top of the hammer as well, but I don't think the bolt is contacting it in the first 1/8 inch of travel
    Indeed I have not inspected for any burrs. But I would imagine at that point it would be a gunsmith job. While I am handy with a dremel making changes that affect the action is not something I am all too comfortable with.
     

    zackmars

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    Indeed I have not inspected for any burrs. But I would imagine at that point it would be a gunsmith job. While I am handy with a dremel making changes that affect the action is not something I am all too comfortable with.
    Any problems with the bolt, op rod or hammer are best delt with by replacing them. The actual receiver is another story
     

    TH4DDEUS

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    Any problems with the bolt, op rod or hammer are best delt with by replacing them. The actual receiver is another story
    That makes sense! I suppose there are enough spares that in the worst case it should be easy enough to get replacement parts. Do you recommend I just replace these outright before firing? I feel that even if I relube a potential burr could be disastrous.
     
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