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Mineral Mountain Hatchet Works

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  • SrsTwist

    Active Member
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    Aug 10, 2022
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    Austin
    Here's some blades from Mineral Mountain Hatchet Works. They use 5160 spring steel and know how to properly temper it. These are heavy duty thick blades. I really like their work and it's not that expensive. They have different finishes available, but I like the brown micarta with the blackened blade.

    • Recluse - 4-3/4" blade
    • Large Mississippi Gambler push dagger - 7" blade
    • Goosewing Axe
    • White River Bowie - 12" blade

    mm_hatchet_works.jpg



    Mineral Mountain Hatchet Works
    Guns International
     
    Last edited:

    Sasquatch

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    Apr 20, 2020
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    I was given one of their skinner knives years ago as a tip - certainly was a beefy knife. Never found a real use for it - it was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too big / heavy to carry afield while hunting, and when I did take it anywhere, it was just in the car so forgotten about.

    It was a good knife, as knives go, far superior to chinesium but not one I'd typically buy.
     

    SrsTwist

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    Aug 10, 2022
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    That 'push knife' is enormous!
    I'd actually like to get the 5" version. Under Texas law you can't carry a blade longer than 5-1/2" into an establishment that gets more than 50% of its revenue from serving alcohol. When working I go into a lot of bars to pick up delivery orders. I have to leave my Glock in the car. My 7" Mississippi Gambler is too big so I carry a small Cold Steel Safekeeper push dagger. The 5" version of the Mississippi Gambler would be perfect for that. Drawing an intimidating blade like that can end a knife fight before it really starts. Knives are the most common street weapon by far. A knife fight is probably the worst kind of defense situation to be in. Anything that can stop it is a very, very good thing.

    And if you have to use it, it doesn't require the same level of skill that a standard blade does. You can use regular boxing-style fighting with added slashing moves. It's also a lot harder to disarm someone with a push dagger as opposed to a regular knife.
     

    leVieux

    TSRA/NRA Life Member
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    I'd actually like to get the 5" version. Under Texas law you can't carry a blade longer than 5-1/2" into an establishment that gets more than 50% of its revenue from serving alcohol. When working I go into a lot of bars to pick up delivery orders. I have to leave my Glock in the car. My 7" Mississippi Gambler is too big so I carry a small Cold Steel Safekeeper push dagger. The 5" version of the Mississippi Gambler would be perfect for that. Drawing an intimidating blade like that can end a knife fight before it really starts. Knives are the most common street weapon by far. A knife fight is probably the worst kind of defense situation to be in. Anything that can stop it is a very, very good thing.

    And if you have to use it, it doesn't require the same level of skill that a standard blade does. You can use regular boxing-style fighting with added slashing moves. It's also a lot harder to disarm someone with a push dagger as opposed to a regular knife.

    Sounds like a good way to get oneself killed !
     

    Texasjack

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    5160 is often referred to by old knifemakers as "OCS" for Old Chevy Spring. They used to use it for car springs, but these days they use some fancy alloys that let them use less metal and lighten the car. It doesn't have enough chromium to be a stainless steel, but it's really solid stuff. There are better metals for edge retention, and certainly stainless metals that you don't have to worry about rusting, but 5160 is tough.
     

    General Zod

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    Sep 29, 2012
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    5160 is often referred to by old knifemakers as "OCS" for Old Chevy Spring. They used to use it for car springs, but these days they use some fancy alloys that let them use less metal and lighten the car. It doesn't have enough chromium to be a stainless steel, but it's really solid stuff. There are better metals for edge retention, and certainly stainless metals that you don't have to worry about rusting, but 5160 is tough.

    5160 is a good steel for a durable blade that'll resist damage, but not be brittle like stainless. It's one of the "go to" steels for custom knife makers because it resists damage but is easy to sharpen and keep sharp, and it's durable.

    Stainless is not a good steel for making "working" blades. It's pretty and low-maintenance, but a bitch to sharpen and the blades don't like to stay sharp with use. Also, it's not as flexible as it should be. It's ok for a cheap "need a knife now" blade, but for something you're going to depend on you'll want a good high carbon steel.
     

    Texasjack

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    5160 is a good steel for a durable blade that'll resist damage, but not be brittle like stainless. It's one of the "go to" steels for custom knife makers because it resists damage but is easy to sharpen and keep sharp, and it's durable.

    Stainless is not a good steel for making "working" blades. It's pretty and low-maintenance, but a bitch to sharpen and the blades don't like to stay sharp with use. Also, it's not as flexible as it should be. It's ok for a cheap "need a knife now" blade, but for something you're going to depend on you'll want a good high carbon steel.
    I have to totally disagree with you about stainless. What you say was true years ago, but there are some great alloys used now that provide the serious toughness that a "working" blade needs to have. When you're talking commercially made blades, you have to look pretty hard to find those good alloys. Far too many use "surgical steel" or some other such nonsense, and while they look pretty, the blades are absolute crap. Simple steels, 5160, D2, O1, 1085, etc. do make great knife blades with proper construction and heat treating, but don't count out the newer stainless steels.
     

    SrsTwist

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    Aug 10, 2022
    268
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    Austin
    I have to totally disagree with you about stainless. What you say was true years ago, but there are some great alloys used now that provide the serious toughness that a "working" blade needs to have. When you're talking commercially made blades, you have to look pretty hard to find those good alloys. Far too many use "surgical steel" or some other such nonsense, and while they look pretty, the blades are absolute crap. Simple steels, 5160, D2, O1, 1085, etc. do make great knife blades with proper construction and heat treating, but don't count out the newer stainless steels.
    The standard stainless for inexpensive knives has been 4140. I have a bunch of Cold Steel knives I bought early in my knife accumulating days made of that. Doesn't hold an edge well. Not exactly the strongest stuff, either. As Tj said, metallurgy has progressed significantly since then.
     
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