Lynx Defense

My cz-p10 suppressor ready is struggling

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  • TexasEric

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    Nov 18, 2017
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    Gun is great when not running a suppressor on it. I put the can on and I get failures in 3-5 rounds. I have sent it back to CZ once, they polished everything. The gun is still failing with the can.
    My only thought is to beef up the recoil spring. Any other suggestions?

    If the spring upgraded spring doesn’t fix it, I will probably sell it.

    I am currently upgrading my M&P 2.0 with apex threaded barrel, apex trigger, stronger recoil spring, and suppressor night sights.
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    sucker76

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    Failing how? Failing to eject or chamber a new round? If it's this, is seems like you have too much mass to cycle completely. Is the silencer attached to a booster? Maybe try a lighter recoil spring or a different booster spring.
     

    TexasEric

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    It seems to not be going into battery, or light strikes to the primer.
    I am using a rugged obsidian 9mm can. It has a booster. I can take it apart to ensure there is no binding or catches.
    Honestly, I believe there is too much mass for the gun. That is why I want to upgrade the recoil spring.
     

    dermunkee

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    I would recommend taking the piston assembly apart and making sure that there isn't heavy carbon build up in there, your o ring is still soft and putting a little lube on the moving parts. I just cleaned out my 9mm can after about 2k rounds and it required taking everything apart. Both the booster assembly and my three lug assembly were close to non-functional .

    Boretech c4 helped a ton with softening the carbon deposits.
     
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    dermunkee

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    Also, make sure you're not using crap ammo. Freedom munitions 147 grain 9mm was too weak to cycle my Sig reliably, I've not had any issues with Federal or Speer.

    And, since you're in Houston, if you want to meet up at Shiloh over lunch one day Mon-Thur or ASC any weekday after 4:30, you can try my Ti-Rant on your CZ and/or your Obsidian on my Sig to see if that points to one or the other being an issue.
     

    TexasEric

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    I am running 3 different kinds of ammo through it. Browning 147 gr, Winchester 147, and I think Speer 147 gr. Same issue with all 3 brands.
    The can a newish, probably has less than 300 rounds through it.
    I can probably get to it this weekend and take it apart.

    I would love to take you up on the shooting offer. But I work a ton, and my wife hates being left alone with the kids. Hell, I may still take you up on the offer anyway.
    What is, and where is Shiloh?
    I am completely familiar with American Shooting Center. I have a 300 blk sbr I want zero and accuracy test any. ASC would be good for that.
     

    TexasEric

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    When I get some time off I may send a pm. I am just south of Bellaire inside the loop.
    I am looking forward to sorting this out.

    If anyone else has an idea please chime in. Thanks for your time.
     

    sucker76

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    Does regular supersonic ammo cycle without fail? Maybe the suppressor is not uncoupling completely and therefore adding to reciprocating mass.
     

    Joshua - Capitol Armory

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    Light primer strikes and not going into battery aren't really the issue you see from suppressing a pistol. The root of the issue most times is drag from the barrel not unlocking property. It takes more force to pull the slide back--- usually resulting in failure to extract the brass from the chamber, or it does but is so weak it won't eject from the gun. That's 99% of the issues with suppressed pistols. I suspect you're getting weak ejection and the design of the gun doesn't like to go into battery all the way. (VP9, I'm looking at you as well.) It wants the full action of the slide to go home correctly.

    Take out the piston, clean and grease it up. That piston needs to move freely in there.

    How many rounds have been through the barrel without the suppressor?
     

    TexasEric

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    Light primer strikes and not going into battery aren't really the issue you see from suppressing a pistol. The root of the issue most times is drag from the barrel not unlocking property. It takes more force to pull the slide back--- usually resulting in failure to extract the brass from the chamber, or it does but is so weak it won't eject from the gun. That's 99% of the issues with suppressed pistols. I suspect you're getting weak ejection and the design of the gun doesn't like to go into battery all the way. (VP9, I'm looking at you as well.) It wants the full action of the slide to go home correctly.

    Take out the piston, clean and grease it up. That piston needs to move freely in there.

    How many rounds have been through the barrel without the suppressor?

    Maybe 300 rounds through the CZ. Cz polished everything when I sent it back, so I am assuming that would have helped with break in. I have not had time to take the can apart yet. I had 27 hours of overtime last week. I will look at it this weekend.
     

    Joshua - Capitol Armory

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    Hard to say, 300 rounds /should/ be fine for break in, but not necessarily. If some parts are both on the extreme ends of tolerances, it could take longer. If you brought it into me knowing what I do from the thread, I would probably burn 200-300 rounds of hot ammo. Clean the gun and take pictures, then burn some NATO, hot 115, maybe some +P, and do it pretty aggressively. Take the gun apart, and inspect for any abnormal wear, anything that may have changed, etc. At that point, make sure it's lubed up and good to go. Don't necessarily clean it. Clean the piston and booster housing, then grease up the piston and make sure it's moving freely. When you pull the suppressor away from the can it should return to normal quickly, or perhaps return acting like it's moving through jello. If it sticks, then the piston isn't working and there's your problem. Resistance is fine, "sticking" is not. Then go burn hot 115 at the range in the K config, then move up to full config, then eventually start using the 147. If that all doesn't work, then pehaps look into altering the pistol.

    I've shot a LOT of suppressed pistols, and most all work just fine from the factory. Some start acting up when people swap out the parts. Bad ammo (Freedom Munitions, I'm looking at you) causes problems. New barrels without break in cause problems, and dirty pistons that won't move cause problems. If you can remove those three things from the equations and it STILL doesn't work, I would personally get rid of the gun or not use it as a host.
     

    TexasEric

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    I got to the suppressor and the CZ this morning. I thought it would be a 10 min cleaning.....it wasn’t. The gun was to in 5. The can was an hour.
    The piston and spring were in coated in carbon. I checked the baffles, they were seized in the tube body. I had tube knock them out with the carbon that trapped them. Luckily, Rugged makes really tough cans with well thought out parts. I have zero worries about misalignment, or baffle damage.
    Basically, I should have cleaned and greased the suppressor when it arrived. I didn’t understand the level of crap that would accumulate in the can.
    I get it now.
    I just want know what is the simplest way and quickest way to clean this can without CLP, brass brushing, and gun lubing the hell out this thing. I am sure it will be a smokey mess for the 1st mag or two.
    I am going to range tomorrow morning. Hoping this makes a a big difference.
     

    sucker76

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    Try coating the baffles in silicone oil. This will prevent carbon and crap from sticking to parts. I haven't tried but heard sonic cleaners are good for getting already dirty parts clean. Also, look up the dip.
     
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