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Need a 180 .44 Automag ( or "the best") gunsmith in DFW

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  • davidindallas

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    Just picked up one of these sweet sweet pistols but it has light strikes on the primer. It will not fire.
    Who is (are) the best gunsmiths in DFW.
    Dont want to screw this one up.
    Gun Zone Deals
     

    66vette

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    Just picked up one of these sweet sweet pistols but it has light strikes on the primer. It will not fire.
    Who is (are) the best gunsmiths in DFW.
    Dont want to screw this one up.
    That's a very common problem on those.
    The slide is not closed 100% on a live round.
    I bet the extractor is hitting the barrel (extractor notch) preventing the live round from chambering completely.

    A slight peening on the notch is an indicator.
    Simple fix is to relieve the notch till the extractor doesn't hit the notched portion of the barrel chamber.
    A pic would be nice.

    The factory suggest using Winchester ammo so ya know.
     

    davidindallas

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    That's a very common problem on those.
    The slide is not closed 100% on a live round.
    I bet the extractor is hitting the barrel (extractor notch) preventing the live round from chambering completely.

    A slight peening on the notch is an indicator.
    Simple fix is to relieve the notch till the extractor doesn't hit the notched portion of the barrel chamber.
    A pic would be nice.

    The factory suggest using Winchester ammo so ya know.


    OMG I just looked and think you are right !
    The extractor sticks out past the bolt by just a few thousandths.
    Dont know how to do pics here.

    Looking for a local gunsmith in DFW to proceed.
     

    66vette

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    OMG I just looked and think you are right !
    The extractor sticks out past the bolt by just a few thousandths.
    Dont know how to do pics here.

    Looking for a local gunsmith in DFW to proceed.
    Don't need a gunsmith if you have a very small pointed file.
    Just remove a small amount of metal slowly till the extractor no longer hits the notch.
    I'll see if I can get a pic.
     

    66vette

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    Found a couple pics for reference.
    The top one is the 30 carbine Automag.
    All Automags (regardless of caliber) have the same problem.
    I'm using the 30 carbine for illustration purpose.

    Red arrow points to outside of notch.
    The angle needs to be 45 degrees & the extractor should not touch.

    Blue arrow points to the underside (inside chamber mouth) & should be round & smooth. A cratex wheel can be used to remove any burrs.

    Orange arrow points to the rim (case head) relief.
    This groove should be perfect all the way around.
    This does not apply to the 44 Automag.

    The last 2 pics show what the extractor should look like.
    Smooth on the outside & no damage to the hook (front & under side).
    If it's damaged, you may need a new one.

    Also, "NEVER" dry fire it. Damage can result to the hammer & other internal parts.
     

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    HCS

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    I am impressed that someone is actually aware of the Automags,

    haven't seen one in years, back in the day when they were in production, they were out of my price range at the time, but I sure wanted one
     

    66vette

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    I am impressed that someone is actually aware of the Automags,

    haven't seen one in years, back in the day when they were in production, they were out of my price range at the time, but I sure wanted one
    In early 1978 I inherited some $$$ from an Uncle who died.
    Good thing too because I was just getting started in life & got my 1rst job.
    That's when I started to have a good size savings account built up.

    I always had a 22 rifle to shoot thanks to Dad.
    Loved guns ever since.
    The hard part was deciding what else I wanted later in life.

    Back then the AMP 44 was selling for around $1000. if you could find one.
    I always liked the AMP 357 but, was harder to find.

    Then the Desert Eagle 44 came out with a price of $650. new
    The Desert Eagle 357 was easier to find at about $550.
    I shot many rounds of 357 & had lots of fun.

    A few years later I became a fan of the 44 special thanks to Elmer Keith.
    Then I bought a Ruger Redhawk 7-1/2" 44 mag & used it for deer hunting.
    200gr JHP's in the neck out to 100 yards were the norm.

    Now the AMP 44 in near mint cond. go for $3500.+
     

    davidindallas

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    Found a couple pics for reference.
    The top one is the 30 carbine Automag.
    All Automags (regardless of caliber) have the same problem.
    I'm using the 30 carbine for illustration purpose.

    Red arrow points to outside of notch.
    The angle needs to be 45 degrees & the extractor should not touch.

    Blue arrow points to the underside (inside chamber mouth) & should be round & smooth. A cratex wheel can be used to remove any burrs.

    Orange arrow points to the rim (case head) relief.
    This groove should be perfect all the way around.
    This does not apply to the 44 Automag.

    The last 2 pics show what the extractor should look like.
    Smooth on the outside & no damage to the hook (front & under side).
    If it's damaged, you may need a new one.

    Also, "NEVER" dry fire it. Damage can result to the hammer & other internal parts.

    I looked at the relationship between the extractor and the barrel again.
    The last pic you posted shows the extractor a few thousandths "below" the rim on the bolt.
    On mine the extractor extends a few thousandths past the rim of the bolt.
    However it doesn't seem to contact the barrel when the bolt is closed because there is no misforming of the extractor nor denting of that face inside the barrel.
    I was going to Dremel that face inside the barrel slightly for additional clearance to the extractor to make sure the bolt is fully forward.
    However because there is no galling / denting I dont think thats the problem anymore.
    I contacted the handloader that built the loads and he swears up and down that pistol primers were used and not the thicker rifle primers.
    The primers are seated several thousandths below the rim surface but now looking at other ammo it looks about the same depth.
    I'm going to take it to a gunsmith as I'm over my head here and screwing up could be costly and/or catastrophic.

    Do you know what parts can be damaged by dry firing ?

    I want to thank you for your expertise and suggestions.

    BTW interestingly the serial number on my gun starts with an X8000 then the last #
    perhaps this is a prototype or tool room gun ?
    Typically from other weapons I know of X is the designation for that.
     
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