Problems with the PMC 300BO or with other PMC cases also? I've loaded a few PMC .223 and didn't notice any issues.
New to reloading, but I'm not sure it is practical for me...
- Thread starter Enochwel
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Problems with the PMC 300BO or with other PMC cases also? I've loaded a few PMC .223 and didn't notice any issues.
Mexican_Hippie
TGT Addict
Most of my 300BO brass is cut down Lake City.
Works great.
Works great.
Not at all concerned about lead contamination if you're talking about melting my own lead. Just like in lead soldering, the vaporization point of lead is somewhere around 5 times the temperature of melting point, so I'm all in as soon as I have more time saving tools.
thanks!
thanks!
That's not what I was thinking. I was thinking more along the lines of handling unplated, soft lead bullets and then, say, eating a sandwich. I'm the guy who brings DLead wipes to every Hicksville gathering. If you're careful with hand-washing and not worried about transferring lead by contact to places it shouldn't be then using lightweight, dead-soft lead bullets, mostly stuff designed for cowboy action shooting, will bring down your cost per round.
First before you have children, I suggest borrowing a couple of kids for about a month. If possible try a 5 month spin, get 2 infants about 4 months, then a couple 2 year olds, then 6YOs, then 16 YO then 20 Yos. You will rush off to get that vasectomy the next day. I had 2 and nothing was ever the same.
All levity aside, you can try starting reloading with the Lee Loader. It is a very rudimentary and slow tool. You beat the case into the sizer, then beat it out, but it works. Instead of beating the case, you case use a C clamp as the driver. The Lee hand loader press is a good option as I have my hunting setup with one for special events. All the large press ideas presented work great. The primer issue can be taken care of with a hand deprimer by Lee.
Oh yeah.. My kids are late 30's now... want to borrow one of them for a month?
All levity aside, you can try starting reloading with the Lee Loader. It is a very rudimentary and slow tool. You beat the case into the sizer, then beat it out, but it works. Instead of beating the case, you case use a C clamp as the driver. The Lee hand loader press is a good option as I have my hunting setup with one for special events. All the large press ideas presented work great. The primer issue can be taken care of with a hand deprimer by Lee.
Oh yeah.. My kids are late 30's now... want to borrow one of them for a month?
You made me curious, so I timed myself loading up 100 rounds of 9mm on a Lee single stage press. I already had the lockrings set perfectly on all three dies, so adjusting those will add some time:
1. deprime and size - 16 minutes.
2. Clean in the ultrasonic - 12 minutes.
3. Rinsing & blowing out with compressed air - 10 minutes
4. Waiting for them to dry - I called it a night.
5. Belling the cases - 14 minutes.
6. Putting in the primers - 14 minutes.
7. Charging with a Lyman #55 - lost track of time setting it up - maybe 5 minutes + 20 minutes for charging and checking random rounds.
8. Bullet seating & crimping - 15 minutes.
So, roughly 2 hours 40 minutes. Since I had the cases, the total material cost was $24.43.
1. deprime and size - 16 minutes.
2. Clean in the ultrasonic - 12 minutes.
3. Rinsing & blowing out with compressed air - 10 minutes
4. Waiting for them to dry - I called it a night.
5. Belling the cases - 14 minutes.
6. Putting in the primers - 14 minutes.
7. Charging with a Lyman #55 - lost track of time setting it up - maybe 5 minutes + 20 minutes for charging and checking random rounds.
8. Bullet seating & crimping - 15 minutes.
So, roughly 2 hours 40 minutes. Since I had the cases, the total material cost was $24.43.
Did you do any cleaning to the cases before you sized them? Sizing them dirty will wear out your dies fast. There is a lot of pressure happening there. It may be worth a preliminary run through the sonic cleaner. Or just clean them once, but before you size them.
Or get a universal decapping die. I use one before cleaning.
Yes, yes, a thousand times yes.
One of the reasons I tell people to get the cheapest Lee bench press when they're starting out is that when you become an advanced reloader, it becomes a dedicated decapping station. Get rid of those primers, throw the cases in the cleaner, and leave them for longer than necessary. Why longer than (theoretically) necessary? To get the primer pockets clean.
There are even faster ways to decap that I see no need to go into here, btw.
My point is that there is no sense in ever putting cases into a vibratory cleaner with spent primers still in the pockets. That just guarantees that when you take the cases out, they won't be completely clean. It's totally self-defeating.
All members are always invited to introduce me to their reasonably attractive, single, non-crazy daughters in their late 30's.
Yeah, I know you were talking to someone else. I just thought I should go on the record.
PS - That "non-crazy" requirement means that this never happens...
But now we want to know!
A universal decapping die is good enough for me. However, I've seen people do things like cut a slot in a table and put two sheets of metal above it with a slight v-shape between them over the slot. The rim or extraction groove of any case will slide down the V until it stops. You pick up spent cases by sliding a punch into the case mouth, slide it into the V until it stops, whack the punch with a hammer, then flip the case into the pile of decapped brass.
I've also seen an upside-down punch secured to a table with a press, similar to one used for loading black powder revolver cylinders, being used to push the cases down. That one was a mess; it left primer grit all over the table top. But it was fast.
I get the impression that someone should do a survey article. There has been a great deal of ingenuity devoted to the question of how to quickly and easily deprime fired cases. I imagine there's some real Rube Goldberg stuff out there.
I thought I read about somebody using compressed air to blow them out.
ROGER4314
Been Called "Flash" Since I Was A Kid!
For years, I moved up & down the center of the US. My reloading gear was stored in two metal shipping trunks and I took it with me wherever I went. Finally, I arrived in Texas, put down some roots but foolishly sold a lot of my gear and all of my bullet casting equipment. (I have since replaced all of that). I hauled that equipment around for about 30 years.
There is a bright side to that loss of my gear. I had three Dillon RL 450's that worked perfectly so there was no reason to upgrade. After I sold all of that equipment, and wanted to get back into reloading again, I did it right. Now, two RL 550B are onboard along with my RCBS single stage and 2 MEC shot shell loaders (12 and .410). It worked out very well!
The reason I mention this is unlike many machines, the reloading gear costs virtually nothing to maintain when it's not in use. I gave it a look every so often to ensure that rust was under control but I gave it no special treatment.
Once the initial tab is paid, that reloading gear will require no cost or effort to keep it operational as long as your storage method is reasonably dry.
Regarding decapping.....
I use the RCBS Universal decapping die to deprime large quantities of brass. I rig the die in a Rock Chucker and it can fly through the decapping process in a hurry!
Flash
There is a bright side to that loss of my gear. I had three Dillon RL 450's that worked perfectly so there was no reason to upgrade. After I sold all of that equipment, and wanted to get back into reloading again, I did it right. Now, two RL 550B are onboard along with my RCBS single stage and 2 MEC shot shell loaders (12 and .410). It worked out very well!
The reason I mention this is unlike many machines, the reloading gear costs virtually nothing to maintain when it's not in use. I gave it a look every so often to ensure that rust was under control but I gave it no special treatment.
Once the initial tab is paid, that reloading gear will require no cost or effort to keep it operational as long as your storage method is reasonably dry.
Regarding decapping.....
I use the RCBS Universal decapping die to deprime large quantities of brass. I rig the die in a Rock Chucker and it can fly through the decapping process in a hurry!
Flash
Last edited:
fishingsetx
Well-Known
- Feb 15, 2015
- 1,610
- 66
I rigged a lid on the "vents" of my tumbler. That prevents the dust problem and I can tumble in my reloading room with very little mess. My main mess is spent primers and loose powder that tends to slip out. Even then, its a very clean process! I can reload 1000 9mm for about $70 ($40 for primers and $30 for powder) if I already have the brass. I cast my own bullets and get my lead for free. Does your appt have a balcony/porch with a storage room? I know most around here do. That might be a place you could store a small reloading bench. You could then pick up a container to store your equipment in and just store it inside in a closet. You could do your reloading on the balcony/porch and sweep up the mess when you are done. That would solve the problem of having to worry about contamination from lead or spent primers falling. Just wash up well afterward and you'll be fine.
Sad to say Ben, both my kids are sons. The youngest has 3 kids in tow...All members are always invited to introduce me to their reasonably attractive, single, non-crazy daughters in their late 30's.
Yeah, I know you were talking to someone else. I just thought I should go on the record.
PS - That "non-crazy" requirement means that this never happens...
