Lynx Defense

Opinions Wanted: Lubrication 101 (for guns...LOL))

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  • Green Hornet

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    Apr 23, 2009
    63
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    North Texas
    I type this, not to insult.
    To me it’s beyond the scope of firearms. Too much jargon for a topic of such.
    Just read and follow the owners’ manual for your firearm.
    Many lubricants to buy. Many home products to use as well.

    Some of the stuff in the column is like:
    Telling a 70 year-old skydiver who’s a severe alcoholic, dying of an incurable disease, that if he doesn’t change his lifestyle, by just taking Flintstone vitamins everyday. He’s not going to live a long and healthy life.
    It’s beyond taking Flintstone vitamins or any vitamin for that matter. I would have more faith in the latter. I f the man decided to pick his car up and run with it to get it started in the morning. That’s after kicking out the floor-boards.

    Going around with microscopes to look at dust mites on gun-metal. Is beyond the scope of proper maintenance. I know a person like that; I respect his knowledge on it as anyone. I can relate to that. But enough is enough.

    For firearms. It starts with the parts, made properly. Whether forged or mim parts. Forged parts need good honing. MIM parts need good quality control. For good workability. That is smooth actions, crisp triggers. That’s the icing on the cake. Any kind of oil, grease is not going to be the “cure-all” for that. But oil and grease will help with the “coefficient of friction” on parts.

    Yes. Some companies go to the extreme of proving their product to another. That extreme will probably not matter to the owner, for the intended use of their firearm that is.
    Just like oil from exotic snakes. Maybe it can make the lock-work out live the rest of the gun? As far as preservatives. If I was going to put it in a time capsule for long term storage. I worry more of what other possible elements can destroy it over time.

    To make an argument on cost. Well, see second paragraph. One can buy inexpensive or expensive.
    Common sense is if a lubricant does not work to your satisfaction. Change it to something else.

     

    Starker

    Active Member
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    Mar 11, 2009
    799
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    The High Ground of Texas
    Thanks, Green! That makes sense. It is a long article with a lot of jargon.

    I probably should have been a little more specific with my question. I was really curious to know if anyone has used automatic transmission fluid or Lubriplate SFL or SFO grease.

    I understand the argument for using grease on areas such as slide rails. I am just trying to figure out what to use that doesn't cost a lot or smell bad and won't stain my nice, new, beautiful Texas Heritage holster by Tucker.
     

    40Arpent

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    Jul 16, 2008
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    Houston
    Stick to the basics, such as Break Free CLP, and you'll be just fine. Wipe the gun down after lubricating...you don't need the thing to be dripping wet. If you feel the need to grease the rails, just a little dab of Tetra grease is all you need...rack the slide a few times and wipe off any excess that squeezes out.
     

    oldguy

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    Mar 6, 2008
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    I use FP10 and gun butter on rails in small quantities my guns stay clean new looking and run great so it works for me.
     

    M. Sage

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    Jan 21, 2009
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    Heck, I still use Hoppes oil for a lot of stuff, and that's just 3-in-1 oil (which is under-rated, BTW; it might actually be tool-grade oil, which is better filtered). Other times, it's Rem Oil.

    For grease, I use brake lube (a synthetic "carrier" with molybdenum disulfide), mostly because I get it free (or at least very cheap) at work. Works great for me and I'm happy. My guns always work.
     

    308nato

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    Mar 9, 2008
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    Between Tomball & Waller
    I use several kinds depending on how heavy I 'am going to shoot.
    1- a grease called Super Lube silicon grease good at -45 to +450 a
    little on a q-tip goes a long way.
    2- Tri Flow oil lube with Teflon
    3-The old Hoppes standbys also.
    4- Mobil 1 is good also as a synthetic.

    Just my
     

    Starker

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    Mar 11, 2009
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    The High Ground of Texas
    Stick to the basics, such as Break Free CLP, and you'll be just fine. Wipe the gun down after lubricating...you don't need the thing to be dripping wet. If you feel the need to grease the rails, just a little dab of Tetra grease is all you need...rack the slide a few times and wipe off any excess that squeezes out.

    Thanks, TXSUT! I had not heard of Tetra, but it looks pretty good!
     

    Starker

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    Mar 11, 2009
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    The High Ground of Texas
    Heck, I still use Hoppes oil for a lot of stuff, and that's just 3-in-1 oil (which is under-rated, BTW; it might actually be tool-grade oil, which is better filtered). Other times, it's Rem Oil.

    For grease, I use brake lube (a synthetic "carrier" with molybdenum disulfide), mostly because I get it free (or at least very cheap) at work. Works great for me and I'm happy. My guns always work.

    Is there a specific brand of brake lube that you use?
     

    M. Sage

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    Jan 21, 2009
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    Is there a specific brand of brake lube that you use?

    I've got a tub of this at work: Brake Fluids Brake Cleaners & Greases - Brake Caliper Synthetic Grease by CRC Though I grab the little grease packs that come with brake pads to bring 'em home and use on my guns. You can lube a lot of guns with one of those little packs, but you can only lube 1/2 to 3/4 of a brake job with one. It's all pretty much the same: moly and some graphite in a non-petroleum grease.
     

    R.Lynn

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    Dec 31, 2008
    69
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    Katy
    I use Hoppe's Elite gun oil and a Loctite product called C5-A to grease the rails. I use this because it looks like grease that came on my Glock when I bought it.
    Does anyone else use this stuff?
     

    M. Sage

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    Jan 21, 2009
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    Copper anti-seize? That's not much of a lubricant. Anti-seize is basically a light grease with metal in it that acts as a sacrificial anode to prevent metal parts from seizing. Mild electrical currents are responsible for most stuck bolts, believe it or not. Very very low voltage over the course of several years will cause metal parts to actually weld together. This is a bigger problem when dissimilar metals are used (very common in engines with an aluminum cylinder head and an iron block).

    Sacrificial anode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
     
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