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Parallax - What is it? (Parallax Explained)

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  • Texas1911

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    Austin, TX
    Parallax

    One concept alot of people can't seem to grasp is parallax. While it's not something that the majority of people have to deal with for short range stuff, like hunting, it is something that can be annoying and painful to people that shoot rimfire or long range.

    Parallax is the difference between the focal planes of the target and your scope's reticle. When the scope's reticle is not in the same focal depth the reticle will appear to move faster than the target with any movement of your head, and visa versa depending on which depth is nearer to your eye. This induces error and can open up groups considerably. You will also find it difficult to focus on the reticle and the target at the same time which causes significant amounts of eye strain.

    It's best understood visually.

    Finger Method

    Put one finger in front of you like you would to represent the number one about 6" in front of your face. Now, extend your other arm to full extension and put up your finger in the same manner. Line both fingers up; you may close one eye if you have trouble doing so.

    Without moving your hands, move your head left to right. Notice how the finger nearest to you "moves" alot while the finger furthest from you seems to not "move" at all. This is an optical illusion due to parallax.

    Imagine the near finger is the scope's reticle and the rear finger is the target, voila you now understand what is going on visually.

    Parallax in a Scope

    Here's two pictures of my scope set to 5.5x with the parallax adjustment bottomed out. The target is very near, approx 7 yards away.

    para1.jpg


    This is the reticle in view through my Olympus camera. The focal depth is approximately 2 meters.

    para2.jpg


    This is the "target" in view through my Olympus camera. The focal depth is only 0.2 meters.

    At this range the reticle's depth is 10 times the depth of the target. It is impossible for the human eye to focus on both the reticle and the target at this distance. With these parallax settings I find that the target must be beyond 25 yards to start to gain clarity, with full clarity by 50 yards. With most centerfire scopes, like my Nightforce NXS, the focal range generally starts around 40 - 50 yards.

    So what can you do to fix parallax errors?

    Parallax is entirely equipment related in regards to eliminating it, however, if you are dealing with parallax in your current configuration, you ABSOLUTELY cannot break your cheek weld. Even small movements behind the scope will cause shift in the reticle and target view.

    In regards to equipment, most manufacturers design scopes to operate well within a "normalized" range. For non-adjustable centerfire scopes this generally is between 100 - 200 yards, so the vast majority of shooters will never run into errors since they make most of their shots at this range. Rimfire scopes are usually specified with a 50 - 75 yard parallax setting, since the vast majority of rimfire shooters do so at close range.

    This essentially means that for shooting at 50 yards a scope with a fixed focal depth of 100 - 200 yards will give parallax and significant eye strain.

    Adjustability

    para3.jpg


    Many scopes are available with adjustable objectives (Leupold VX-II for example) and side mounted parallax adjustment (pictured above) that allows you to adjust the parallax to the specific range. The above Nightforce for example gives excellent results anywhere from 50 yards to 1000+ yards via the adjustment.

    This allows the user to use an adjustable parallax scope on anything from a .22 LR to a .243 Win to a .50 BMG at a wide range of distances.

    "As a scope feature, all of my future scopes will have adjustable parallax."
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    double_r76

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    Nice write up, Alan! Good photography as well, especially considering how hard it generally is to capture reticles.

    Go ahead and admit that you come up with these "educational" pieces so you can show off your toys... like that awesome Nightforce! Now quite teasing and show us the rest of that rifle.

    Thanks,
    -Randy
     

    Texas1911

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    savagetr.jpg


    I got the bright idea to buy one scope and use it on multiple guns. The zero stop is set for my .308 so all I have to do is turn the knob until it stops and I'm zeroed. The scope is in LaRue QD rings which guarantees 1 MOA repeatability.
     

    Dawico

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    Nice gun and nice write up. Of all of shooting problems, parallax is probably one of the most misunderstood, if people have even heard about it. It is a fairly simple concept once you understand it. A good cheek weld can help overcome it, but a good scope with parallax adjustments is the easiest and simplest way to deal with it.
     

    double_r76

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    That is an insane set-up. I can't wait to get the barrel threaded on my .22LR bolt gun... you're making me very envious!

    -Randy
     

    coachrick

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    And here, I thought parallax was the 'only' reason my woodworking measurements were off! It was explained to us in the 7th grade...using a wooden yardstick placed over a mark on a piece of paper. Showed how easy it is to misread such an instrument. Not nearly so creative as the Texas1911 illustration, that's for sure! Well done!
     

    double_r76

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    It's as quiet as it gets. I'll make a video of it soon.

    I can't wait to see the video!

    I'm getting my T-Bolt threaded here pretty soon (not soon enough actually)... you really can't beat a .22 bolt gun for a suppressor host. I'm on the waiting list for Silencerco to upgrade my 22Sparrow to the stainless guts, which should make it even better!

    -Randy
     
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