Lynx Defense

Parkerized or Dura Coat

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  • mito

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    Sep 24, 2008
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    I am going to get the finish redone on my AK47 MAK90. Just wanted to see what everyone knows about Parkerizing or Dura Coat. Ive done a litle research on it but was curious. The gun is already parkerized but has some chip spots and very minimal pitting by the front hand guards. Im leaning towards Dura.
    Target Sports
     

    Angered_Kabar

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    Jan 17, 2011
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    Kansas City :(
    Duracoat looks easier if you already have a spray brush.

    Parkerizing isn't too difficult but I think it works best if you have the parts sand blasted first. You also need a big enough container with even enough heating to do long things like barreled receivers. A big pot is good enough for pistols but not rifles.
     

    WadeP

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    Jan 20, 2010
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    San Marcos, TX
    Parkerizing is completely different that duracoat.
    Parkerizing is a surface conversion coating where a layer of chrystalline phospates bonds to the surface of the steel forming a porous surface that holds oil very well. Oiled parkerizing is better at corrosion resistance than bluing.
    Moly, Molycoat, gunkote and duracoat are all sprayed on surface applied coatings that are either hardened by heat or 2-part epoxy.
    IMO, your best bet for a finish is one of the latter over your existing park. The chips and pitting might be able to be polished out first.

    Here's gunkote over cold park.

    PolishUFAK8.jpg
     

    mito

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    Sep 24, 2008
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    Thanks gentlemen I think I will go with Dura. Just plain jane though. Will post up some pics once i get it done.
     

    LilIrishTemper

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    Mar 20, 2011
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    DFW - Sherman
    Thats not mine, it's one Kings did. Ive had some pistol work done with these guys, really good work. Firearm Coatings

    Cost: sky is the limit, just depends on how crazy of a color scheme you want to go with. There is a pricing sheet on the bottom and a virtual handgun coating to see what a pistola would look like. You can come up with some crazy looking stuff.
     

    mito

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    Sep 24, 2008
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    Ok so ive decided on sand blasting, parkerizing, then duracoating it. Will post update when i get her back.
     

    dobarker

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    Mar 26, 2010
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    Sonora
    Ok so ive decided on sand blasting, parkerizing, then duracoating it. Will post update when i get her back.
    Youre on the right track, I could not have suggested a better process, be sure to degrease the hell out of it with TFE or brake parts cleaner then a final with electronics parts cleaner. With it being an ak, unless you strip the thing completely appart (down to bare receiver with no trunnions) it will bleed grease out of the rivets and ruin the parkerizing.
    Degrease it with the method of your choice (while wearing latex gloves to avoid getting your finger grease on it) then if it fits in the oven, bake it at around 180-200 for an hour or so to get the caked in grease to leach out. Then follow the parkerizing directions to the T, then duracoat it. Or you could even kg gunkote it (spray and bake).
     

    Angered_Kabar

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    Jan 17, 2011
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    Kansas City :(
    Boiling the parts in a detergent solution should also work great for degreasing. I'd rinse it off real well and after it's degreased don't let a speck of oil or grease anywhere near your gun. That means your hands. Wear gloves.
     

    mkillebrew

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    Mar 29, 2009
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    Austin
    I recently drank the cerakote kool-aid. Shot black on my 1911, coyote and black on the VZ.58 I'm building, FDE and black on a friend's 1911, and I'm now waiting on a couple quarts of it from NIC to finish off a P226 in FDE and black. It goes on very easily and is fairly tough.

    1911-FDE-Black-scaled.jpg
     

    lilricky2

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    Aug 17, 2008
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    S.E. Houston
    Reparking should be relatively easy on an already parkerized gun(except stainless and aluminum of course)
    and fairly cost efficient. I do Dura, Norrell's, KG Gunkote, and now Cera. Everything gets parked before coating. Duracoat does not warranty anything that is air cured that has not been cured properly; about 3-4 weeks. I prefer the other coatings a little more for the most part. They(Duracoat) do, however, have the more awesome selection of colors and camo. You could always just get it reparked and add color to it later if you get the bug.

    Rick
     

    Texastransplant

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    Aug 18, 2010
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    Purmela, Texas
    I vote for parkerizing. I prefer a deep rich mirror blue, but that's because I am older then the average guy here. Painting a firearm is just something I can't do. That always indicated a cheaper firearm when I was young. Don't send hate mail lol I just can't paint a firearm and almost pains me to have bought a few polymer framed firearms.
     

    mkillebrew

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    Mar 29, 2009
    213
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    Austin
    I'm mostly with you on that, a good parkerizing job or a high polish deep blued gun is beautiful, but not always as durable as other treatments or finishes. It depends entirely on the purpose of the gun and how much time or money you want to sink into the prep work for a smooth bluing job.
     
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