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Primer seating problem

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  • TipBledsoe

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    I got myself a new RCBS hand primer tool. I'm very happy with it, BUT several cases wound-up with primers appearing to be only halfway seated and I couldn't squeeze them in any further.
    I suspect what might have happened is I seated two primers into the pocket
    - is this possible?
    - If so, might this have been a disaterous situation?
    - Is it dangerous to de-cap a live primer in the same manner as you would a fired primer?
    - Otherwise, how can a live primer be de-capped?
     

    jrbfishn

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    I have decapped them in my die. Go very slowly.
    Most likely, there is an obstruction in the primer pocket.

    Sent by an idjit coffeeholic from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
     

    jrbfishn

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    Let me add to my last post.
    Usually, if I have to decap a live primer, it is because it managed to get upside down in the priming tool and I did not notice it.
    I would try shining a light in the case to see if the flash hole is blocked and how. Proceed from there. Very carefully. Or just toss the case if decapping it worries you.
    Always check the pocket and flash hole after cleaning.

    Sent by an idjit coffeeholic from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
     

    Texasjack

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    You didn't mention the cartridge that you were having a problem with. Cartridges used by the military will often have a primer crimp. That means .308, 9 mm, and .223/5.56. Not every 9 or 308 has a crimp, but nearly all 223's do. If you don't swage or ream that crimp out, sometimes primers will get hung up and wind up crushed or not completely seated. Also, some primers are "harder" than others and don't have much give when inserted into a tight pocket. Federal primers are notorious for that, so you'll see problems a little more often with those primers.

    As others have said, you can de-prime a cartridge on your press. (In fact, if you're going to do a lot of reloading, consider getting a Universal Decapping Die. It comes in handy.) I've decapped at least a few hundred and never had one ignite. Still, it's always a good idea to consider that it might ignite and use reasonable safety precautions. If you're really worried about it igniting, you can destroy the primer with water and then dry the case later.
     

    CodyK

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    I would never say it’s impossible to double prime a case, but if you did it, I would love to see a pic, because that would be a first for me! Like others have said, probably a crimped pocket, or something else is in there obstructing it. I’ve knocked out live primers dozens of times with no issues, but go slow. You’ll find out as you go, Federal, CCI, and Winchester all seat a little different.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

    Dawico

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    You didn't mention the cartridge that you were having a problem with. Cartridges used by the military will often have a primer crimp. That means .308, 9 mm, and .223/5.56. Not every 9 or 308 has a crimp, but nearly all 223's do. If you don't swage or ream that crimp out, sometimes primers will get hung up and wind up crushed or not completely seated. Also, some primers are "harder" than others and don't have much give when inserted into a tight pocket. Federal primers are notorious for that, so you'll see problems a little more often with those primers.

    As others have said, you can de-prime a cartridge on your press. (In fact, if you're going to do a lot of reloading, consider getting a Universal Decapping Die. It comes in handy.) I've decapped at least a few hundred and never had one ignite. Still, it's always a good idea to consider that it might ignite and use reasonable safety precautions. If you're really worried about it igniting, you can destroy the primer with water and then dry the case later.

    Just to clarify, water does not destroy a primer. Wet priming compound will not go off but when it dries it will be active again.

    Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
     

    TipBledsoe

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    You didn't mention the cartridge that you were having a problem with. Cartridges used by the military will often have a primer crimp. That means .308, 9 mm, and .223/5.56. Not every 9 or 308 has a crimp, but nearly all 223's do. If you don't swage or ream that crimp out, sometimes primers will get hung up and wind up crushed or not completely seated. Also, some primers are "harder" than others and don't have much give when inserted into a tight pocket. Federal primers are notorious for that, so you'll see problems a little more often with those primers.

    As others have said, you can de-prime a cartridge on your press. (In fact, if you're going to do a lot of reloading, consider getting a Universal Decapping Die. It comes in handy.) I've decapped at least a few hundred and never had one ignite. Still, it's always a good idea to consider that it might ignite and use reasonable safety precautions. If you're really worried about it igniting, you can destroy the primer with water and then dry the case later.
    I really really appreciate everyone’s comments.
    The caliber is 460S&W Mag and the primer is Winchester large rifle. This is my first time to reload this caliber. Would this caliber have a crimped primer pocket?
    I’ve put 6-8 drops of water in the case. I’m going to let it sit a while to soak in then cautiously punch it out like normal.
     

    scattergun6

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    I can only highlight and agree with everything others have stated above...excellent input. I have had lots of military-sourced brass (.45 mostly) with crimped primers.... I use a chamfering tool to cut and then swage with swaging dies.
    Have occasionally wanted to kill a primer, mostly when I realize I have re-primed a split case...a few drops of oil into the case, crush it with pliers, and drop it in the trash.
    I have found, with brass having tight primer pockets or primers that seem larger than normal causing difficult seating with the hand primer, it is better to re-prime on my RockChucker - seats deeper and doesn't damage the primer in any way.
     

    TexMex247

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    I've popped new primers out with a dedicated de capping die. It's not as scary as it sounds. However, knowing you suspect a tight pocket I'm not sure I'd try it. Normally I'd agree with lonesome dove but if you have a high primer then I doubt you could even chamber the round. In your case, I might just toss that piece and swage all primer pockets before priming more of them.
     

    popper

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    Oil doesn't 'kill' a primer. Just carefully decap with the universal and wear safety glasses. No big deal. The universal is not a closed space like a decapping pin in a sizing die so any 'gasses' will exit with a bang but no major damage.
     

    deemus

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    Maybe difference is LR vs LP?

    not sure if those are slightly different sizes. I’ve never worked with the 460. It’s possible calibers that large have crimped primers.
     

    msharley

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    Hey Tip,

    Double check the depth of the primer pockets, after you pop the primers out...(use safety glasses whilst so doing)

    Nephew told me that sometimes a 460 case is/was made for pistol primers (about .060" SHALLOW) instead of RIFLE...(he loads 460, for his Dad)...

    The 460 should not have a crimp.

    In 9mm, fag 40S&W, 45 acp and old school 38 Special (for handgun) there always exists a possibility for crimps in the primer pocket. The "brands" are usually: WRA, LC (followed by year), WRC...and a few others....for US Mil/Surp.

    For modern ammo, CBC & Amerc brass...........plain SUCK...

    You may? Want to get a LYMAN PRIMER POCKET UNIFORMER/FLASH HOLE UNIFORMER...

    You only need do the primer pockets/flash holes one time....but saves untold grief down the line...(wasn't bad when primers were a penny/pop...but at $200/M? Much too pricey for mistakes) :50cal:

    Hope this helps..

    Later, Mark
     

    msharley

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    I was taught oil soaking the primer will render them useless.
    Hey Baboon,

    The sons & I tested that theory with 12ga hulls some time back.

    Took about 1/2 dozen damaged hulls with primers...

    Filled 1/2 full with a variety of oils/solvents...(no shot/wad or powder)

    Let set for three weeks? (been a while)...

    Stuck 'em in the 870 (if we could) or the Stevens 311 (S&S) if we had to.

    EVERY ONE WENT BANG!

    So...I'm a skeptic on the oil kills primers theory....

    We did a variety of rifle & handgun as well....mixed results....(2/3? went bang? 3/4? went bang??)

    ALL FACTORY MIL/SURP RIFLE PRIMERS (8mm/30-06/308, 762x54) went BANG...no matter how long soaked. (empty primed case) Same with US GI 45acp...pulled bullets (a real kicker as they are crimped and painted with asphaltum sealer)

    Back to our regular programming...

    Later, Mark
     

    baboon

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    Hey Baboon,

    The sons & I tested that theory with 12ga hulls some time back.

    Took about 1/2 dozen damaged hulls with primers...

    Filled 1/2 full with a variety of oils/solvents...(no shot/wad or powder)

    Let set for three weeks? (been a while)...

    Stuck 'em in the 870 (if we could) or the Stevens 311 (S&S) if we had to.

    EVERY ONE WENT BANG!

    So...I'm a skeptic on the oil kills primers theory....

    We did a variety of rifle & handgun as well....mixed results....(2/3? went bang? 3/4? went bang??)

    ALL FACTORY MIL/SURP RIFLE PRIMERS (8mm/30-06/308, 762x54) went BANG...no matter how long soaked. (empty primed case) Same with US GI 45acp...pulled bullets (a real kicker as they are crimped and painted with asphaltum sealer)

    Back to our regular programming...

    Later, Mark
     

    baboon

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    I’m glad I never had to test the theory. 90 % of my reloading has been done on a RCBS Rockchucker. Never used anything to seat primers other then the priming tool on the press. It always worked fine for me. I like that I could feel a properly seated primer thru the press handle.

    I bought a Dillon SDB from a friend and never liked much about it. I started reloading to make quality not quantity.
     
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