purging the fuel system(fuel filter replacement)

[country_boy]

I need to replace the fuel filter on my little jap truck. How important is to purge the fuel system? Why cant I just disconnect hoses, put a shop rag over the line to stop any gas and change out the filter. Like on my tractor? I feel nervous messing with relays,computers, and such.

 

[Tex]

The pressure and amount of fuel in the lines is more than you would think. It's liable to spray everywhere and leak out half a gallon of gas. Just pull the fuel pump fuse and let the car run for a few minutes until it dies, or if applicable, release the pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.

 

[Shorts]

Purging is not necessary. The fuel system should only be under pressure when the key is on. And I wouldn't crack any lines then either.

Keep it simple. Drain the canister and then close the valve back up, pull the filter, replace it and there's probably the oring. Tighten the lid back on. Turn the key to the ON position a few times (but do not start). You should hear the fuel pump prime the system. Then bump it a couple times, then you should be able to go ahead and start it up.

This is the procedure on my 06 CTD, you should be fine with the above method. I wouldn't worry about prefilling the canister. No need to.


Crap - I'm thinking you're working on a diesel with the filter in the canister.

If it's got the inline fuel filter along the frame rails, get a drain pan and stick it under the lines where you'll disconnect it. Undo the connection in front of the filter first, let any residual fuel drain into the pan, there's not too much. Then remove the rear connection. The fuel system shouldn't be under pressure unless the pump is running. You should be fine.

 

[propellerhead]

I just open the fuel tank cap and use rags over the connection I'm disconnecting. I lose about a cup of fuel each time. Wear eye protection.

 

[country_boy]

Well thanks for the advice but, I cant change it out. They designed it too close to everything up by the engine and to the firewall. I cant figure out how to get a screw driver down below the firewall to free the bottom half of it. Have to have my mechanic show me. Thats why I want an American brand truck. I get pissed when I cant work on my own vehicle.

 

[BT1911]

Well thanks for the advice but, I cant change it out. They designed it too close to everything up by the engine and to the firewall. I cant figure out how to get a screw driver down below the firewall to free the bottom half of it. Have to have my mechanic show me. Thats why I want an American brand truck. I get pissed when I cant work on my own vehicle.

Ever change the #4 & #8 COPs (coil on plug) on a 1998 F-150? Guaranteed to lose 30% of your knuckle skin along with unknown amounts of blood. The only upside is how amazed you'll be after stringing nine different cuss words into a single phrase.

 

[country_boy]

Ever change the #4 & #8 COPs (coil on plug) on a 1998 F-150? Guaranteed to lose 30% of your knuckle skin along with unknown amounts of blood. The only upside is how amazed you'll be after stringing nine different cuss words into a single phrase.

I was meaning an older American truck. I really dont have a clue how to change that fuel filter.

 

[BT1911]

I hear you, brother. I miss the days when you could look down from the top of the engine and see the garage floor.

 

[M. Sage]

Get a 1/4" drive ratchet and a 1/4" socket (they make magnetic ones just for this) and bits for an interchangeable bit screwdriver.