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Rattle can paint job

Discussion in 'Automotive / Motorcycle Chat' started by Kyle, Oct 25, 2013.

  1. Kyle

    Kyle Needs More Cowbell! TGT Supporter

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    So I had some pretty bad paint when I got my civic. The trunk, bumper, and roof were all in terrible shape. Peeling and oxidized... ugly.. So I fixed it! "Perfect Match" auto paint, some clear, and LOTS of buffing and polishing. Came out better than I expected IMO.

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  2. txbikerman

    txbikerman TGT Addict

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    looks good, the prepping is the most important part
     
  3. AngeliaH

    AngeliaH Life's Peachy TGT Supporter

    Aug 5, 2012
    Central Texas
    Wow. That looks nice.
     
  4. Vaquero

    Vaquero Pre-ban Staff Member Admin

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    Awesome!
    I think it looks great.
     
  5. Kyle

    Kyle Needs More Cowbell! TGT Supporter

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    Thanks! The roof has a couple of spots where it looks like I didnt get ALL of the old clear off, but you have to stare at it to tell. Im thrilled that my only real cost was time
     
  6. Jakashh

    Jakashh TGT Addict

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    I was expecting a LOT worse than that. That looks good for a rattle can!
     
  7. Kyle

    Kyle Needs More Cowbell! TGT Supporter

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    So was I.. lol

    It could use a little more polishing, but it is actually hard to tell what has actually been painted, especially if you dont know what to look for
     
  8. Jakashh

    Jakashh TGT Addict

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    Paint my car next lol. My clear coat and paint is so faded and fucked up, like your roof was, that even a cheap rattle can job like that'd be nice
     
  9. pistolpadre

    pistolpadre Well-Known

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    KYLE.. and everybody.. you guys know i'm getting ready to shoot the scoot on mon or tues.. got it all planed out, and found these instructions.. i'd sure appreciate it if you read these paste copies and give some feed back.. Dave you said prep was the most important.. are ALL of these steps needed.. this is important, and sure want a job like Kyle's... any input please share with the geez
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      • Start by removing the part that needs to be painted. (You can also tape around it, but be careful about overs pray)


      • 2Sand the part with the 300 grit sand paper until the surface is a little rough. This is necessary for the primer to bond with the surface. After sanding wipe down the part with micro fiber cloth.


      • 3 Lightly spray the part with primer. A few light coats are better than one heavy coat. Make sure to allow proper drying time between coats.



      • 4After a few light coats of primer have been applied, wetsand with the 800 grit sandpaper. After wet sanding, wipe again with micro fiber cloth.


      • 5Now it is time to apply the color. When spraying the spray paint make sure to use smooth even passes across what is being painted. Do not start painting on top of the part because the paint will be heavier in that area. When painting you want to press and release the button to the side of the product being painted. Again a few light coats are better than one heavy one and make sure to allow proper drying time between coats.


      • 6After you are satisfied with the color, wetsand with 800 grit sandpaper and then wipe with micro fiber cloth.


      • 7Now it is time for the clear coat. Spray the clear coat the same way as the spray paint. Only one or two light coats are needed. Allow the clear coat plenty of time to dry as this is the layer that you will see most. You don't want any fingerprints on your final surface!


      • 8After the clear coat has had more than enough time to dry, You now want to wetsand with the 800 grit, then the 1000 grit, then 1200, then 1500, and finally the 2000 grit sandpaper. This should remove any heavier spots in the clear coat and will polish your painted product up very nicely.


      • 9Next you need to remove the scratches left by the 2000 grit. For this you will need to buff the surface with rubbing compound.


      • 10Now you need to buff the surface with a medium cut polish to give the surface a nice glassy look.


      • 11Whether it be exterior or interior parts that have been painted, I always add a couple coats of wax to the surface. This acts as a protectant to the clearcoat and gives it a nice smooth feel and also helps repel dirt.




     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2013
  10. Kyle

    Kyle Needs More Cowbell! TGT Supporter

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    Picture? In my book, bare metal is better than peeling and oxidation. You likely can't make it look worse than it is so I wouldn't be afraid to try things.


    All looks pretty good aside from step 1. I would use 600 grit wet sand (instead of 300 dry) before primer. Then dry it and wipe it down with some mineral spirits, rubbing alcohol or any sort of degreasing and cleaning agent you may have. I did not use primer at all on my car, I didn't find it necessary for my application. But I did use a cleaner/degreaser after sanding and right before moving onto the next stage of the process. Keep the surface CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.

    When laying down the paint, be sure to keep a wet edge too. Rattle cans have a tendency of leaving dry lines on large surfaces. Sometime unavoidable. Went sanding and buffing/polishing will take them out fortunately.
     


    Last edited: Oct 26, 2013

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