Reloading for 308

[Glock20]

Hello, I'm new to reloading for rifles. I have done a lot of reloading for 9mm and 10mm pistol caliber, though.

A couple of questions: in 9mm or 10mm dies, you have a de-primer die, a charging die, a bullet seating die, and a crimp die.

When I bought the 308 dies, there's only 3: a deprimer die, a neck sizing die (?right?), and a bullet seating die. Is that all ?

I understand that you don't crimp rifle cartridges, right? What about the neck sizing die, any adjustment for it?

Is this mean that I can only charging 308 cartridge manually ?

FYI, I use a Lee Classic Turret setup. It has a 4 die ring, so I just leave one of the positions empty?

Thanks, for your helps.

 

[codygjohnson]

My bolt rifles only get neck sized, but my autos get full length sized using a full length sizing die. The "depriming" may be a full length sizing die. The neck sizing die will come with instructions on how to set it up for proper use. Both types of sizing dies should have a depriming pin. You will have to charge the cases individually, so get a powder funnel. You will eventually want to full length size your cases as they will get too big for the chamber at some point. On the lee, just leave one station empty.

 

[mikeofcontex]

Depriming (decapping) is usually done in the "full length" resizing die. There is no case mouth expander die. With Lee, there should be a seater and a factory crimp die in a 3 die set.

The size of the neck is controlled by the resize making it smaller and then opened to the "correct" size by the button above the decapping rod. If you setup the resizer short of the shell holder, you can neck size only.

You MUST lube the cases in the resizer or they will stick and you will be VERY unhappy.

 

[Glock20]

Oh, so that third one is actually a crimp die. I guess what confused me was the lack of a charging die. I wasn't aware that with the 308 you'd have to do manual charge in each case. My reloading speed is typically over 150 pistol cartridges per hour using the Lee Classic. This means the 308 reloading will be far less. I guess because people don't shoot them as quickly as pistol cartridges. Thank you, Gentlemen.

Have you heard of Frog Lube, proliferated in gun-apps by a old SEAL member? A lubricating paste that does magic with my guns. The paste melts with a bit of heat, but then it gels up so it doesn't run like oil. My guns love it. May be I wipe it on the cases prior to pushing them into the deprimer/length sizing die.

 

[mikeofcontex]

You need some case sizing lube... lots of choices, but I would look for opinions about frog lube before you try it for resizing.

If you have a progressive setup, you can drop powder through a die, but it will be something you buy separately. I'd get several/many 308s done one at a time before you attempt to progress to a progressive setup. Just me...

 

[Younggun]

Rifle reloading is alot of times referred to as handloading. It's slower but reloading to the tolerances used for most pistol setups would probably have you grouping the size of a watermelon. Pistol reloading is usually quantity(to a point) where as rifle relaoding is generally all about quality. Which is why there aren't alot of progressive rifle setups(that I know of).

Btw, I prefer the spray on case lube, I have used a very light amount of air tool oil in a pinch but I don't recommend it, Depending on the rifle chamber and other things it may not work for your brass.

 

[medalguy]

Get some Imperial Die Sizing Wax for those rifle cases. Don't screw around with imitation lubes unless you really want to stick a case in your die. Trust me on that. If you don't have any, pick up a couple of loading blocks like these for rifle cases:

 

[Deavis]

The deprimer die, as you call it, should be the full-length sizing die. Typically they have an expander ball mounted on the decapping stem, the die sizes the outside of the case, bumps the shoulder, tightens the neck, and then when you withdraw the expander ball, it sizes the neck to take a bullet. Neck sizing doesn't touch the body, just the neck and bumps the shoulder. Not to be confused with an expander die that just expands the neck (think Lyman M-Die). Your questions and the methods for using the dies would be covered in a basic reloading manual, do you have one?

You can crimp rifle cartridges and it is common practice for service rifles. Generally if the bullet has a cannelure, you crimp on it. If you say it affects rifle accuracy, hold up, why aren't you buying match bullets without a cannelure?

You can charge rifle on press, that is also common in progressives. You simply neeed to get a powder measure that mounts in your press or get a Lee rifle charging die for your press. There are plenty of the former, the Hornady LNL is a nice rotary example that works really well. You won't do any expansion while charging like is common in press mounted measures for pistol.

 

[Glock20]

Thanks so much for your helps. I did a number of spreads with IMR3031 and found that 40.8gr to 41.0gr gave the best grouping at 100yrds. I repeated these experiments on a different day, in different order, and got the same result.

So this is my load spec, for now: IMR3031 targeting 40.9gr, 168gr SMK, Win. Primer, AOL 2.800, a light layer of Frog lube worked magic in sizing die.

This is a Remington 700 SPS Varmint, bought as a package from Gander with a 12x40 scope and a case for $650.

 

[Glock20]

It's a 3-shot group with 2 shots almost on top of each other and the third one is roughly 0.4" away center to center. Think of it as 0.5" group as there is other contributing variables that make little sense to quote grouping more precisely than that.


Observation: brand new cases also resulted in good grouping, but a couple inches at 5 o'clock. Repeatable. While the twice used cases at near center. Why?


How ofter do you trim cases? I find that after 3-4 uses, case length progresses to some 5mils longer making it harder to lock in the bolt.

 

[Glock20]

Repeated 41.0gr and shot on another day.

 

[OLDVET]

Not bad, especially considering the cost of the rifle package. I would say you have a winner. Repeatability is the key word in your discussion.
If you plan to shoot at longer distances you will probably want to step up to a 175 grain bullet. Your rifle should be able to stabilize the 175 at longer distances.

 

[deemus]

I load alot of 308's with the same setup as you. I love the 4 die turret. I normally prime all of loads using the hand held Lee Autoprime.

As mentioned, you need to buy the powder charge die, which makes 4. I have one for each of my turret plate setups. A plate for each caliber allows you to leave your die adjustments as is. Just switch the turret plates out for the caliber you are loading.

There are lots to consider on the 308, as compared to other rounds. One of those is whether you are shooting military brass. The military brass (which I love in my FNAR) is generally heavier brass. This results in higher pressures with the same powder. So I weigh my cases and group them by weight. I got lucky on my last batch of mil cases and about 150 of the 500 were very close in weight. It matters for accuracy. I have shot several 1/2" groups with my system of loading. Its a bit more complicated than pistol loading in my opinion. Since you are shooting a Remington bolt action, I would suggest that you NOT use military cases. But the discussion still applies.

Another thing is the bullet weight. For 150 and lighter bullets, I like the W748 powder (it was actually created for the 147g NATO 308 round). For heavier bullets I use IMR 4895. I love the Hornady SST in 165g, and use 39g of powder, at a OAL of 2.73. Its a great round for my gun.

I also have a lighter load for my daughter to shoot. But it would be a great load for hunting any deer and smaller critters. Its the Nosler 125g ballistic tip hunting bullet. I use 43.3g of W748 powder at OAL of 2.76.

And be sure to purchase the length trimmer. Lee makes a nice one you can chuck in a cordless drill. I usually only do this after shooting a case twice.

The OAL, the bullet weight and the case weight all factor in. So for really good accuracy, I suggest using similar case weights. Then decide on a range of powder charges. I load 4 sets in half grain increments (42.8, 43.3, 43.8, 44.3) and then shoot them at their own targets. The powder charge with the tightest group is the charge I use. Be sure to get the OAL the same on all rounds, so the only variable is powder charge. I use this method on all my rifle rounds. Since every gun is different, you will have to find the load that your gun likes. What is magic in my FNAR may not be the perfect round for your gun.

I used the same process for the same bullet, but this load is hot for 300yd antelope shots. This load is just under 48g of powder, which is the max load in one of my manuals.

Good luck! Its alot of fun finding that perfect round, and even more fun when you arrive at that load that you can use every time.

 

[Glock20]

Thanks, deemus. That's the process I am using. Nice to have confirmation from another shooter.