reloading questions

[will083031]

Hi everyone my wife bought me a reloading press its a single stage press and have some questions, this is my first time reloading what else am I going to need? So far I have a scale, reloading books (Hornady,speer) primers both for rifles and pistol lube pad and lube. What I have ordered is dyes for .38-357mag,.223 and 9MM, brass for the three calibur. What I still need are calipers which are better analog or digital? hand priming tool the two I am thinking of getting is the Hornady or RCBS, case trimmer, bullets. Am I missing anything? Now a few questions what is the best way to clean brass in a tumbler with media or with a liquid chemica like iossol?

 

[Ranger60]

Welcome to the hobby!

I prefer a digital caliper, easier to read.

I have the RCBS hand priming tool and really like it.

Looks like you have a good grasp on what you need, just read a lot and take it slow and easy, no distractions when loading.

To get really nice shiny brass from once or many times shot brass, I use corn media with a capful of NuFinish car polish and an equal amount of no odor mineral spirits.

 

[TexMex247]

Reloading answers

In addition to dies, primers,bullets and brass, you will also need some gunpowder! Since that deserves another thread specific to each caliber, we'll stick to the basics. For starters, I recommend more than one powder scale and eventually some check weights. You'll need a priming tool of some sort and a shellholder for each cal. If you bought carbide pistol dies, you don't even need the lube or pad but it will still come in handy for rifle rounds.Since I'm runnin' a turret press, I prefer extra die holders to minimize changes in the performance(misadjustment) of my dies. A dial caliper is a must to verify C.O.L.s . If you want to produce match grade ammo, you will probably want a flash hole uniformer and deburring tool. You will also need a cartridge cutting tool(highly recommend lee stuff).An inside outside deburring/chamfer tool. You will also want a collet type or kinetic bullet puller because mistakes DO happen. When it comes to cleaning, tumbling is not necessary and may actually increase the time it takes you to process brass but it sure makes your bullets look pretty. You should always be looking to expand your reloading resources by acquiring new manuals and "field tested" recipes as well as keeping your own log book. My last bit of advice would be to start out loading pistol rounds just to get your feet wet, reloading for a semi-auto rifle like the 223 is not the easiest place to start.

 

[randmplumbingllc]

Hi everyone my wife bought me a reloading press its a single stage press and have some questions, this is my first time reloading what else am I going to need? So far I have a scale, reloading books (Hornady,speer) primers both for rifles and pistol lube pad and lube. What I have ordered is dyes for .38-357mag,.223 and 9MM, brass for the three calibur. What I still need are calipers which are better analog or digital? hand priming tool the two I am thinking of getting is the Hornady or RCBS, case trimmer, bullets. Am I missing anything? Now a few questions what is the best way to clean brass in a tumbler with media or with a liquid chemica like iossol?

I didn't see any powder on that list. I like Hogdon Titegroup for pistol and either Winchester 748 or Hogdon Varget for rifle. A case length guage for brass is a good idea. It will tell you if you need to trim your brass without usung calipers every time. Otherwise, it sounds like you have a handle on it. You will find other gadgets later that will speed up things. I would start with pistol loads first. They are easier and more forgiving, until you get the hang of it. IMO

Cleaning brass is a good idea. It may slow you down, but it is easier to spot defects in the brass, especially rifle. And as already said, it looks pretty.

 

[GJW1911]

I was in your situation a couple of years ago, my advice would be to get the book "The ABC's of reloading 8th edition and read the Lyman reloading manual. These helped a lot in selecting equipment as well as components that suited my needs.

 

[robocop10mm]

Digital calipers are perhaps easier to read, but require batteries. Dial calipers do not require batteries and (IMHO) are just as easy to read. I have a machining back ground so I have use dial calipers for many years.
Make sure you get carbide dies for the handgun rounds. Little or no lube is required and they hold up better long term.
You will not have to trim the handgun rounds. .223 WILL require trimming after the first firing and about every 2-4 loadings afterward.
I have never used a hand priming tool and have never felt they were needed. The priming setup on the press works fine as long as you get the "feel" right. I have used the press mounted priming devices on the RCBS and Dillon. I load ammo that is quite capable of shooting 1/2 MOA groups in .223 and .25-06.
A decent polisher will make life much easier. All of the major reloading companies make them and they all work about the same. The liquid dips like Iosso may be fine for badly tarnished brass but probably not needed. For cleaning brass I have used Lyman Turbocharger, Iosso media additive and Frankfort Arsenal additive. They all work fine. For polishing, I like the Flitz additive. It leaves a protective film that keeps the brass from tarnishing.
Welcome to the wonderful world of handloading!

 

[Texas42]

start saving up for a progressive press.

: )

It is going to hit you before you know it. I'm not telling you to buy one, just that you will want one for the pistol rounds before too long.

I use digital calipers, all I can say is that you should take the batteries out while not in use. Last a lot longer. I tumble brass in crushed walnut (actualy lizard media from petco) with Nufinish, mineral spirits, and brasso. . . it makes me feel better and looks good)

Listen to the above people.

 

[ROGER4314]

I like the dial calipers better as the batteries always poop in the digitals. I got to the point where I removed the battery after every reloading session.

You might consider some loading blocks. I charge all of my cases then take a light and look at each powder charge. When I'm satisfied that all charges are correct, I seat bullets. Never had a problem or a Kaboom.

Did you have a primer flipper and a lube pad? I use the lube and pad because the lube lasts for years. Lube the pad and roll a bunch of cases over it. Yes, I know carbide dies aren't supposed to need lube but I do it anyway and save my old elbows.

How about a primer pocket cleaner, chamfer tool and an "eraser". I have the inertial type of eraser but bought a collet type and like it a lot better.

Have fun!

Flash

 

[Eli]

I tumble brass in crushed walnut (actualy lizard media from petco) with Nufinish, mineral spirits, and brasso. . . it makes me feel better and looks good)

Do NOT do this! Brasso chemically attacks brass and weakens it!

Eli

 

[medalguy]

ABC's of Reloading is a MUST HAVE book for any new loader. Here's a link to a web site with great information on all aspects of handloading. Bookmark it and refer to it whenever you have a question. 99% of them will have answers at this site:

http://www.three-peaks.net/reload.htm

 

[Texas42]

Do NOT do this! Brasso chemically attacks brass and weakens it!

Eli

I've heard that, but I don't think you'll ever find any instance where it actually mattered.

It does, but probably not enough to matter. I've fired my brass several times. Light loads, sure, but I'd be more worried if I was using high pressure loads.

 

[robocop10mm]

Brasso contains ammonia. Ammonia will make brass brittle. Some people say to add the brasso to the media and run it til dry. This allegedly allows the ammonia to evaporate. I will not take a chance with my body parts or firearms by using Brasso, ever. There are just too many safer alternatives.