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reloading the s&w 40

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  • country_boy

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    I need some information on die selection. I always buy the LEE carbide dies for pistol with the factory crimp die. I was reading in my Lyman book not to over crimp due to head space. Would it be ok to use the factory crimp die, or is it important to use a taper crimp die(if they make one??) What do yall do for this round?
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    wshbrngr

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    Factory crimp die would probably be better, however,
    I have been loading for my Beretta 96 Brigadier and just use the Hornady .40 S&W dieset and apply a light roll crimp with the seating die.

    I do just enough crimp to hold the bullet firmly.

    Several hundred rounds later, no problems.

    (I do the same with 9mm and 45acp)
     

    Rifleman55

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    A taper crimp die is the best, I load 45 and 9mm and use a Dillon SDB which uses a taper crimp, use just enough to bring the belled case back to or just a small amount into the bullet. Remember that autopistols headspace on the case mouth.
     

    captain-03

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    I, too, use the tamper crimp die ... not just with the 40S&W, but with the 9mm and 45acp. I have found that the Lee factory crimp die gives me some bad ammo every now and then ... a few rounds do not seem to want to go into full battery in my Glock 22. The tamper die solved the problem.
     

    oldguy

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    I use the Lee factory crimp die on 9, 40 and 45acp with excellent results, I prefer to seat and crimp two different operations I find I get a more consistent OAL in that manner. Big issue with the 40 watch out for set back, (allowing bullet to push back into case when chambered), an issue on all calibers but IMO especially the 40cal.
     

    robocop10mm

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    Always apply a taper crimp or "factory crimp" in a different step from bullet seating. I use taper crimp dies for all pistol rounds I load for (.32 ACP, .380 ACP, 9 X 19, .38 Super, .357 Sig, .40, 10mm and .45 ACP). I crimp enough to make a visible mark on the mouth of the case.
     

    Texas42

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    I'm not going to act like I'm a super reloader guru, but I don't think much, if any crimp is really needed on these auto pistol rounds. Used to add a medium or light crimp on my 9mm luger, but really couldn't tell a darn pit of difference (really light loads). So why waste the brass?
     

    robocop10mm

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    Depending on the gun a light to moderate taper crimp will prevent bullet set back on chambering. Some crimp helps to ensure proper and consistant ignition and can enhance accuracy. My taper crimps are moderate, just enough to see. If nothing else it reverses the belling of the mouth that is very detrimental to good feeding in a tight chamber.
     

    country_boy

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    So what your saying robo is that a factory crimp die will be ok on the 40 s & w? I use the factory crimp die separately on my other pistol rounds as well but, this is the first time reloading this round. Any other recommendations?
     

    robocop10mm

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    With any cartridge that headspaces on the mouth of the case, crimps must be carefully applied. A roll crimp commonly used on revolvers is NOT good in these cartridges. It displaces too much material and buggers up the headspace.

    A taper crimp can be over applied as can a "factory crimp". Use either, just do it judiciously. Heavy roll crimps are needed in some revolver loads especially Magnums for two reasons. One, to insure positive ignition. Slow burning powders like H-110 and W-296 take a little bit to get going. The nature of the revolver is there is little resistance to forward movement of the bullet until it hits the rifling. This can be quite a distance. If the powder is not fully ignited before that point, some kernals will not burn and you will lose too much pressure through the barrel/cylinder gap. The second reason is in heavy recoiling Magnums (or heavy bullets in light revolvers) can cause the bullet to move forward out of the case and possibly jam up the action by protruding out the front of the cylinder. A firm roll crimp keeps this from happening.
     

    Peter M. Eick

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    I have a FCD for the 40, but rarely if ever use it.

    The problem with the FCD is assumptions and manufacturing tolerances. Consider the die and what it is supposed to do. It should resize the round down to SAAMI specs right? So, say you have a thin brass case like a Remington, and a jacketed bullet and you run it up into the FCD. The carbide ring just touches the brass but does nothing and you get a great taper crimp. Perfect, exactly what you would like. Now say you use starline brass which is think and a lead lasercast bullet that is .0015 to .002 thicker then your jacketed bullet. Now you run it up into the fcd and the carbide ring really resizes the round as it has too. Something has to give so the bullet gets swaged and your accuracy goes out the window.

    So my advice is to use the FCD carefully and if you find that you are resizing your cases a lot or even a little, try some rounds with and without the FCD at the range. My groups got cut in half by not using the FCD in several cases. I do swear by the FCD in the 357 sig though so "it depends".

    On most rounds if I am not using an FCD, I am using a redding profile crimper.
     

    robocop10mm

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    I have never used the FCD so I cannot speak precicely. Is there not some degree of adjustment available? I load individual lots of brass and adjust the dies to that lot. I currently have Speer brass coming out of my ears so that is what I load in 9, 40 and 45. If the FCD cannot be adjusted for amount of crimp applied, I would have no use for it because I do load a lot of cast bullets sized to .001 over normal bore diameter.
     

    MadMo44Mag

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    With any cartridge that headspaces on the mouth of the case, crimps must be carefully applied. A roll crimp commonly used on revolvers is NOT good in these cartridges. It displaces too much material and buggers up the headspace.

    A taper crimp can be over applied as can a "factory crimp". Use either, just do it judiciously. Heavy roll crimps are needed in some revolver loads especially Magnums for two reasons. One, to insure positive ignition. Slow burning powders like H-110 and W-296 take a little bit to get going. The nature of the revolver is there is little resistance to forward movement of the bullet until it hits the rifling. This can be quite a distance. If the powder is not fully ignited before that point, some kernals will not burn and you will lose too much pressure through the barrel/cylinder gap. The second reason is in heavy recoiling Magnums (or heavy bullets in light revolvers) can cause the bullet to move forward out of the case and possibly jam up the action by protruding out the front of the cylinder. A firm roll crimp keeps this from happening.
    +10000
    All auto loaders should be tapper crimped.
    You ever over "roll" crimp an auto loading round and it cambers you may have hell getting the round back out!
     

    TexMex247

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    Reloading the 40 s&w

    The factory crimp die by Lee(for pistols) IS a taper crimp die that also sizes as you use it. For rifle the Lee FC dies are collet type crimpers. I use the Lee FCD religiously. It ensures consistent neck tension, more complete ignition and feeds smoother as a product of both the sizing and the crimp it forms. With lead bullets, you can see the crimp"bite" into the lead nicely. Jacketed bullets require a little more finesse to crimp properly without damaging the jacket. The Lee FCD dies are all going to perform based on the O.A.L. of the brass itself. Longer brass(compared to others) will get a much heavier crimp that can actually start to cut into the brass, so ensuring very consistent brass lengths will also ensure consistent crimps. All that being said, I would recommend that you don't even try to reload for the 40. I hear case life is shortened due to the pressures the caliber produces. It operates at almost twice the pressure of a 45acp. Not worth the risk IMO. If you must do it, the Lee FCD will probably produce better results than a roll crimp or none at all.
     
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