Required folding knife options

[TipBledsoe]

My knife collection has grown this year and I'm finding that my preferences have changed as I've learned and experienced more about folding knives - and I'm quite curious what your folding knife preferences are.

Please select the 3 most important features to you.
You only get one shot at your poll response: No changing your poll response after you see others' response.
You don't get to see total poll results until you enter your poll response.
Comments encouraged.

This poll is kinda related to the poll for lock type preference (https://www.texasguntalk.com/threads/folding-knife-lock-type-poll.110588/)

 

[candcallen]

Decent function with low cost. Sucks to lose 300 bucks repeatedly.

Kershaw assisted opening knives. Fit the bill

 

[easy rider]

There are more than three things I look for in a good quality folding knife. One of the main things, besides the metal, I like in the knife I carry is assisted opening, another is weight.

Not sure how people keep losing them.

 

[Tnhawk]

There are more than three things I look for in a good quality folding knife. One of the main things, besides the metal, I like in the knife I carry is assisted opening, another is weight.

Not sure how people keep losing them.

I also have a list of requirements in my choice of a knife. All of the knives I've purchased have been auto opening since they became legal.

 

[skfullgun]

1. Opens easily with one hand (did I ever tell you the story about the 75-year-old man that choked out a pitbull with his collar because he couldn't get his knife open with one hand while holding him back?)

2. Partially serrated blade.

3. Pocket clip

4. Cost

I used to carry Spyderco, Kershaw, and similar. I use a knife as a tool and broke many of the blades, lost others. I went through 1 or 2 a year at an average cost of $75. Break the blade on a high dollar knife and the customer service department will tell you that "it is a knife, used for cutting, not a tool!".

Made in USA used to be my #1 priority, and I really, really tried to find a Buck USA that would fit my carry criteria. I used to be a fan of Schrade and Camille's, but they went on a strictly rice-diet long ago.

My EDC is a Remington F.A.S.T. (large), and I have several of the mediums for when I "dress up" a bit. They are made in China. I buy them when they are on sale for $12 or so. They last a long time and hold a decent edge.

Heck, I used the one I have in my pocket as a pry bar! Bent the blade and straightened it out with a hammer!

I also carry a Workpro folding box-cutter in my back pocket. It has a clip and replaceable blade. Great for opening boxes, trimming wires - smaller tasks for which I don't want to pull the big boy out of my pocket!

 

[skfullgun]

I really wish someone would come up with a Sodbuster design, with pocket-clip that could be opened with one hand.

This is what I carry daily.

 

[easy rider]

I also have a list of requirements in my choice of a knife. All of the knives I've purchased have been auto opening since they became legal.

Mine is spring assist, so it was legal before, but acts much like an auto. (ZT Carbon Fiber)

 

[easy rider]

Heck, I used the one I have in my pocket as a pry bar! Bent the blade and straightened it out with a hammer!

#1 metallurgy rule of quality knife blades: If you can bend it out of shape and bend it back again. It ain't a quality knife, and I'm a bit dubious about it holding an edge.

 

[skfullgun]

Well. It works for me. And it indubitably holds an edge. I hit it a few licks on the steel several times a week. And, I can skin squirrels, rabbits, etc. with it.

I've bent a crowbar before.

I like carbon steel.

I didn't see "quality of steel" in the OP's title.

Perhaps some of us view "quality" more in regard to cost and functionality. I don't consider it a good "quality" of a knife when the blade breaks off in the field when I'm using it in a pinch.

I'm not a metallurgist, and I don't play one on TV.

You do you!

 

[EZ-E]

Spring assist, blade steel & a clip are most important for me.
Currently I've been carrying a Kershaw Ken Onion Blur with s30v steel. If I go old school it's a Case XX.

 

[easy rider]

Well. It works for me. And it indubitably holds an edge. I hit it a few licks on the steel several times a week. And, I can skin squirrels, rabbits, etc. with it.

I've bent a crowbar before.

I like carbon steel.

I didn't see "quality of steel" in the OP's title.

Perhaps some of us view "quality" more in regard to cost and functionality. I don't consider it a good "quality" of a knife when the blade breaks off in the field when I'm using it in a pinch.

I'm not a metallurgist, and I don't play one on TV.

You do you!

Sorry if I offended you. I do teach metallurgy, so it's in my nature to give helpful criticism.

 

[TreyG-20]

I like flipper tabs on my folders. Blade steel is important, but I also like a good value because I'm cheap. I don't own a folder that costs more than $100. I'm into knives just not that into them. I probably have 15 or 20 mostly cheap folders but these are my favorites that I carry now. Kershaw link 20cv, Sog Terminus XR S35vn, Civivi Elementum S35vn.

 

[skfullgun]

Sorry if I offended you. I do teach metallurgy, so it's in my nature to give helpful criticism.

You don't offend me. It would take a lot more than that.

As a metallurgist, I'm sure you look at things differently than I do.

I buy vehicles with as few "gadgets" as possible. I shave with a safety razor (metallurgical qualities unknown), a brush, and soap.

Variety is the spice of life.

I just got tired of buying high priced knives and having them chip, break, etc. Now I just buy 10 or 12 of them for the same price and each time one gets worn, I throw it a glove box, tool box, deer stand, etc, and grab a new one.

I cut a LOT of rope/strapping/binding and really like a partially serrated blade. If you would have told me that 20 years ago I would have thought you were crazy.

 

[easy rider]

You don't offend me. It would take a lot more than that.

As a metallurgist, I'm sure you look at things differently than I do.

I buy vehicles with as few "gadgets" as possible. I shave with a safety razor (metallurgical qualities unknown), a brush, and soap.

Variety is the spice of life.

I just got tired of buying high priced knives and having them chip break, etc. Now I just buy 10 or 12 of them for the same price and throw them in glove boxes, tool boxes, deer stands, etc, when I want a new, pretty one!

I cut a LOT of rope/strapping/bindinding and really like a partially serrated blade. If you would have told me that 20 years ago I would have thought you were crazy.

I'm not a metallurgist as in a scientist of metals, I'm a welding instructor with knowledge of metallurgy. I teach a bit of metallurgy in most classes (SMAW, GMAW, GTAW and pipe welding), but there is a semester of metallurgy we teach in pursuit of certificates and degree.

I also use a safety razor, although I shave less now since I now have a full beard. I prefer the Feather blades.

 

[Texasjack]

The heart of a good knife is the steel. Buy cheap steel and you'll be sharpening it constantly (or cursing it for not cutting).

Most big knife companies have 2 levels of knives: those made in the USA and those made in China. The Chinese blades are never quality steel.

Serrated edges are for people who don't know how to sharpen a knife. (They probably also don't know how to sharpen the serrated part of the blade, but if you do enough sawing on something, it will eventually wear it's way through.)

 

[seeker_two]

One thing I would add is grip style. I look for knives that won't let my finger slip onto the blade under pressure, whether by choil(?) or guard. And it has to be ergonomically friendly.

Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk

 

[MetalCutter]

I can't stand liner locks. For me ease of opening and closing is first on the list (didn't see that choice listed).

 

[robertc1024]

I picked the first three. I'd say the other thing is it have to have a positive lock-back. AUS-8 is about as low as I'd go on the steel though - it's ok, but dulls quickly relative to better steels.

 

[Tamlibtoim]

I selected blade material & blade shape. My Final requirement is locking mechanism. I have had a knife close on my fingers while working with it so that is a huge concern for me. Currently using a buck 110 bantam, also prefer any cold steel with the triad locking system.

 

[skfullgun]

I used to feel that same way and thought serrated blades were a joke - until I started cutting ropes, strapping, binding, etc. It takes much longer with a non-serrated blade, even a really sharp blade of high-quality steel.

I used to work with a guy that would use his EDC knife at restaurants. That got some looks!
Not that there's anything wrong with it but let me tell you it sure got some stares.