Hurley's Gold

Scope rings in Houston

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  • Mikewood

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    That is a really good video. It's just not required to torque the screws. Just snug them up finger tight per the video. Then begin snugging them like you would bolts on a car's wheel. X pattern. Just make about three passes going slowly and check level. If it's not level loosen them up and level the scope again and tighten them again. It's really simple and he is making it overly complex.

    He is also selling a lot of stuff by name here. You can use a level like a torpedo level but I prefer to use sandbags and the target line at my local range. Look thru the scope and see see the target line in the horizontal scope line.
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    40Arpent

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    He is also selling a lot of stuff by name here. You can use a level like a torpedo level but I prefer to use sandbags and the target line at my local range. Look thru the scope and see see the target line in the horizontal scope line.

    If you're saying that you use the target line (whatever that is) to level your scope by comparing it to the horizontal crosshair, how do you ensure that your rifle is perpedicular to those lines?
     

    Mikewood

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    the target line is the line of targets you are shooting at. Most ranges have a row of targets that are pretty level but you can use the top of the berm or anything else that's level.

    You have a lot of stuff going on when you are shooting. Some of it is natural canting. The gun simply won't go to the shoulder square for most people and I feel it's important to accept this and work it into your shooting. You can get close but I would not bother with leveling the gun on a bench unless you have a bubble level attached to your scope but that is a whole other game.
     

    40Arpent

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    Thanks for the explanation, Mike...I get where you're coming from. I'm too anal, so I use the Wheeler barrel clamp level system.
     

    Mikewood

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    I know man. We are all too anal about target shooting. When a new guy comes in folks throw all sorts of stuff at them like spin drift and junk and these guys are squirming around behind the scope trying to see thru the scope and they can't possibly get a good or natural cheek weld. We got to get him to 90% in half the time and then we can can spend the other half the time squeezing out the last 10%.


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    Robert_K

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    Holt shit... Go to work and BOOM!

    I mentioned those stores for him. But I agree do it yourself. I was offering him baby steps. I do my scope mounting myself as well.
     

    Dawico

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    If you're saying that you use the target line (whatever that is) to level your scope by comparing it to the horizontal crosshair, how do you ensure that your rifle is perpedicular to those lines?
    I do it at home and use a corner/ door frame/ some other vertical level straight edge.

    I try and level the rifle but I don't worry about getting it perfect. I don't hold it perfectly level when I shoot anyways.
     

    Younggun

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    OP


    Just checked my rifle and verified. Scope is mounted on Seekins Precision medium height rings. .87" from base to centerline of scope. Base is Seekins 20moa. Plenty of clearance on the barrel.

    e82a5121ddfda35d79203e2a791f72eb.jpg



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    Dawico

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    OP


    Just checked my rifle and verified. Scope is mounted on Seekins Precision medium height rings. .87" from base to centerline of scope. Base is Seekins 20moa. Plenty of clearance on the barrel.

    e82a5121ddfda35d79203e2a791f72eb.jpg



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    You sure those are medium? Seem low to me.
     

    Younggun

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    You sure those are medium? Seem low to me.

    Dammit!


    Yeah, they are low rings.

    Only a .05 difference in height between low and medium. I measure .825 and looked up the medium rings, figured he difference was due to not quite getting the caliper lined up.


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    Gmofftarki

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    Thanks for the pictures Younggun- that seems pretty close to the rifle that I'm putting together, so I can probably get away with a similar set of rings.

    Here's the problem that I'm having: On the one hand, you all are absolutely 100% correct and getting the proper eye relief for a repeatable cheek weld is paramount. On the other hand, the scientific method would seem to dictate that you only change one variable at a time, and if I get a rifle I'm not used to with an optic that I'm not used to installed by a mechanically-inept moron with ammo that I'm not used to and start shooting at distances I'm not used to.... I'll never know what the problem is when I can't get onto paper.

    It took me about 50 rounds to get my AR on paper because I was starting at 50 yards (I really should have done the indoor 10 yard 50/200 zero, and gotten the elevation close for that before moving to a legitimate 50 or 200 yard distance, which is what I did when I got a real mount for the red-dot rather than just using the stock mount on top of a chinese riser). I still feel like it might be best, for learning purposes, to get a pro to do a pretty good job at their best guess of eye relief, and learn to shoot the thing where they put the optic, since this time around I think I'm going to get it boresighted, initially, too, then dial in my best guess for 100 yard elevation, before verifying with live ammo.

    Scope doesn't come in until some time next week, so I'll keep thinking about it over the weekend.
     

    Younggun

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    To get on paper put the rifle on a rest and look down the bore, get the bore lined up with paper, or whatever you can see, then adjust cross hairs to match.


    Learning to shoot it where it doesn't fit you will only be one more variable because your discomfort will effect your shooting.


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    Younggun

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    Also, don't dial anything once bore sight is don't until you hit paper. If you don't hit with the first shot move closer.


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    Gmofftarki

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    Do any of you have any thoughts on the Burris XTR rings?

    I know- I should really buy seekins/badger/vortex/nightforce/swsa/etc, but I'm getting to the point where I'd prefer to spend those $XX on ammo, so I'm trying to nickel and dime the most important and least expensive part of the rifle system.
     

    acorneau

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    I can't believe no one has asked these simple questions yet...

    1. What kind of rifle is it? High power bolt-action rifle, AR, AK, rimfire, air rifle, modern/antique?
    2. How do you plan to shoot it? Benched, prone, standing, running/moving?
    3. Do you have any special requirements like glossy rings to match a glossy scope, see-through rings so you can use iron sights, something that is quick-detach and/or repeatable when remounted, something else?

    Unless I missed it, the OP has not stated any information concerning what he has and what he plans to do with it. As an example, almost all of my shooting is standing/off-hand with rimfire and air rifles, so my needs are very different than the general advice given so far.

    So, Gmofftarki, what is your situation?
     

    Gmofftarki

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    Alright- I didn't want to post because I found a good deal locally, and didn't want to post it publicly until I had the rifle in hand.

    .308 Savage 10FCP McMillan, to be fired (at least initially) from the bench at 300 yards.

    I'd like to learn to shoot it in all positions at varied ranges, but that will be dependent on finding a place to do so, and ASC only goes up to 600. Plus, I have to pass the 300 yard test to even walk to their 600 yard line, which may take some learning.
     

    acorneau

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    In that case I would look for steel rings with a height that will be as low as you can practically go while maintaining clearance for the bolt handle. You mentioned having an additional rail installed so you'll need to add the rail height into your equation.

    I'm sure there are many fine brands of rings for you to choose from that will fit your needs. Unfortunately most of my scope-ring knowledge is geared towards lighter-weight aluminum rings for the kind of rifles I shoot.

    Good luck.
     

    Younggun

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    In that case I would look for steel rings with a height that will be as low as you can practically go while maintaining clearance for the bolt handle. You mentioned having an additional rail installed so you'll need to add the rail height into your equation.

    I'm sure there are many fine brands of rings for you to choose from that will fit your needs. Unfortunately most of my scope-ring knowledge is geared towards lighter-weight aluminum rings for the kind of rifles I shoot.

    Good luck.

    The rings and rifle I posted would be pretty much the setup he needs, or at least ring height.

    We had PMed back and forth so I knew what he was dealing with.

    Whether Badger/Seekins/Nightforce/etc rings are worth the extra cost is a whole other thread entirely.


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    Younggun

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    Alright- I didn't want to post because I found a good deal locally, and didn't want to post it publicly until I had the rifle in hand.

    .308 Savage 10FCP McMillan, to be fired (at least initially) from the bench at 300 yards.

    I'd like to learn to shoot it in all positions at varied ranges, but that will be dependent on finding a place to do so, and ASC only goes up to 600. Plus, I have to pass the 300 yard test to even walk to their 600 yard line, which may take some learning.

    If you can make it to the spring meet I believe I have some cheaper 30mm rings, and possibly a set of Seekins or Vortex I could make you a deal on, and between everyone there we could have the scope mounted and get you shooting.


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